Royal purple Vs. Mobil 1

[nelsonmxmarc]

... But no tests to back it up? All speculation IMO.. Mobil 1 has been in Lemans, factory in Porsche and many other leading names in the motorsport scene, who's to say what's best without any real critical analyses..

I've heard bad things of Castrol as well. And as much as i loved Motul in my bikes, i dislike the filth it collects on changes.. A dark gray, cruddy oil only means it's cleaning your internals, meaning all this junk and fine grit is being tossed around in there and basically sanding everything down - like sand in an ocean eroding rocks. I've seen this in Castrol products on my own car in comparison to mobil which remains rather clear and clean on changes.

I'll try to dig up a test we did back in my motorcycle phase.. a member of 600rr.net did a full analyses on different oils/grades over the same span on time..

[nelsonmxmarc]

Here we go..

Mobil 1 4T Synthetic 10w-40 USED OIL analysis;

http://www.600rr.net/vb/showthread.php?t=114090

Amsoil MCF

http://www.600rr.net/vb/showthread.php?t=103943

Amsoil 10w-40 Synthetic

http://www.600rr.net/vb/showthread.php?t=189852

Mobil 1 15w-50 (what i use and what most use i'd assume)

http://www.1000rr.net/forums/showthread.php?t=6109&highlight=mobil1

Enjoy!

[DreadedFist]

I'm using German made Castrol 0w30 right now. Car runs way better after a cold start and warms up faster. Summer, I'll probably stick with german Castrol, probably 5 or 10w30.

From what I've been recommended, dont use non-german made castrol oils.

[nelsonmxmarc]

The only issue with 10-30 is that the breakdown at higher temperatures is much more harsh, killing the length of your oils viscous properties. If you run your car hard, i'd recommend nothing less than a 50 weight.. 5w-50 for cooler temps ( what i run in spring) and 15w-50 even as high as 15w-60 for hard track/street driving. Must take into account oil weight is considerably high (molasses) when starting cold, so it requires a good warm up period. I often see 80-90 oil psi on a regular cold start, but it maintains a good viscosity and kills any worry of running higher temps (210+f).

[nelsonmxmarc]

And i'd like to conclude the study of the 10w-40 Mobil 1 synthetic - basically running hard (on a bike) keeping well above 8000 rpm (to 15,500) for 4000 km is a LOT of work for oil. The study concludes that to maintain the oils properties, to change every 2000 km. If we put this into "skyline" or better yet, our "everyday need" terms, with a stock motor running typical variations of rpm and speed, we can likely see Mobil 1 last, safely, 6500-8000 km. Track days, the typical 4-5000km cliche point. With an oil cooler, and typical driving, easily 10,000 km as heat is considerably dropped, and we all know temperature/friction kills oil. Track, 6-8000km.

That doesn't seem to bad to me. Especially for the price.


EDIT; the test is done in MILES! So, you get the point.. 2000 MILES is roughly 3300 km... 3300 km of HARD abuse in harsh, hot, US summers.

[cobrAA]

the lower the number ( 30 vs 40) the more molasse the oil is?

Remember, Nissan recommand 7.5w30.

[Skym]

Nelsonmxmarc, dirt in oil can be due to carbon deposits dislodging, etc. Or deposits / sludge could have been caused by oil overcooling that can cause problems or not enough oilchanges in the past. Castrol oil in my car comes out clean every time. But I had the engine decarboned by machine and run a good oilfilter. Could have been few oilchanges when some of the carbon or sludge dislodged on your car.

From what I understand, normally oiltemps rise to fail levels after about 7 laps without engine oilcooler. 35 laps is alot to ask of oil at high temps.

Have look at the fastest GTR in the world and the stress that engine is under with around 1600-1700hp at wheels with Methonal. Castrol oil provided less wear on cambuckets. Same with Nitro dragcars with 7000hp-8000hp, Castrol is used there as well.

But I think viscousity, synthetic, etc plays a big role, not where the oils made.

[JNS Performance]

the lower the number ( 30 vs 40) the more molasse the oil is?

No higher the number, a w90 is much thicker than a w30.

First number is the "winter" number the lower the better for startups at negative degrees and the second number is viscosity which is for operating temp.

I personally use AMSOil as we have an account. Their new OE Synthetic is really cheap... like $6 a liter and there performance oil is like $9 or so give or take.

[Snake556]

Braden, what do you think of the AMSoil? I've heard some really good stuff about it

[NismoS-tune]

The larger the gap between the 2 numbers the better the oil is HOWEVER the shorter it's life. 5-50 wouldn't be too good after so many km unlike 10-30 which would last longer but wouldn't be as good at first.

As for Mobil, I technically work for them so I know why I shouldn't be using that junk. AMSoil is what I like. Motul is good or so I've heard but at the price of it, I'll stick to the proven AMSoil (based on research I've done, most hi end oils are similar but QAQC is what I go after in the end). Get your oil inspected after use and you'll quickly find out which oils not to use. I change oils every 4000km but that might change now that my capacity is around 10quarts lol.

[mob_skyline]

Motul 300V 10W40 for RB engines !!!

[aN4rk1]

two words: Motul 300V
That is all

[cobrAA]

instead of 5w40.

would you rather get 5w30 or 10w40 ?

[Bignoga]

Its amazing how much wrong stuff I see in this thread. W for winter........

Please read this thread fully http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/faq...=haas_articles

[falcon]

I run Motul 300V cause I be ballin' or cause I get it at cost at work..

That is all.