Is this a NUR or STD block. Pictures inside

[NismoS-tune]

hey Frank have you kiced yourself yet, or would you like me to. Hang tough I might be able to help you out with an n1 block.

It's too late for a real N1. That'd be the cost of the block plus all the extra machine work again. I'm gonna use that 3-4k elsewhere Like transmission next year.

[NismoS-tune]

N1 block is overrated anyways, it's what's inside that counts.


Your block is STRONG Franc!

I guess. The rods will fail first anyways, they're the bottle neck. I do regret not going with Carrillo but I was told I wouldn't make enough power to hurt the Eagles lol.

[evilgtr]

Andrew built your motor, you have nothing to worry about just beat the living crap out of it and enjoy

[NismoS-tune]

Andrew built your motor, you have nothing to worry about just beat the living crap out of it and enjoy

My thoughts exactly! Good guy after all we've been through getting it back to me. Speaking of which, does anyone know a good break-in method for this engine? The Pistons are CP so they may not like the hard break-in. I have disconnected the turbo dumps for an easy start but how to actually break it in?!

[TheyKilledKenny]

Try to do mostly city driving, if your on the highway make sure you change your speeds and down shift to 4th here and there. Id use conventional oil for the first 500-1000 kms then change and stay with a good synthetic. Keep her under 4000RPM for the first 5,000 kms, then under 5000RPM for the next 10,000 and she should be mint. Its not fun, but it will be worth it in the long run.

[gtrjon]

It's too late for a real N1. That'd be the cost of the block plus all the extra machine work again. I'm gonna use that 3-4k elsewhere Like transmission next year.

what did u get for 3-4k at the machine shop?

[evilgtr]

Andrew broke my motor in when he had my car so I would ask him. I believe he had the wastegates disconnected and drove it for around 800 km, lots of starting and stopping is good and always vary the rpms but dont over rev it. He told me there is no definitive km distance for a breakin but they like to see around 1000km but really he said the most important thing is compression - once they had a engine that the compression was within 2 to 3 psi acroos the board then it was dyno time !!!!

My engine was broke in with royal purple full synthetic. I would recommend a similar break in and dont rush it, some cars are dyno ready and broke in by the first 100kms others take longer.

[TheyKilledKenny]

Does Andrew work at a shop in Alberta? If so which one?

[evilgtr]

No he is still in Burnaby BC, has his own shop now. Doesn't advertise publicly just relies on word of mouth and that keeps him super busy ! I can put you in contact with him if you like
He has a few wicked builds on the go right now, one of them is a effing monster !!!

[NismoS-tune]

what did u get for 3-4k at the machine shop?

Well If I bought an N1, that's about $2k, then there's all the machine work needed plus labour which would add to another $1-2k.

So before you ask why I pay so much, my pistons aren't drop in, my oil pan isn't drop in, my main studs aren't drop in. lol.

As for break in, I keep hearing "use cheap miniral based oil, changed again after 20 mins the take it for a drive with no boost, max 5000rpm. That's all pretty vague and information is missing.

[TheyKilledKenny]

No he is still in Burnaby BC, has his own shop now. Doesn't advertise publicly just relies on word of mouth and that keeps him super busy ! I can put you in contact with him if you like
He has a few wicked builds on the go right now, one of them is a effing monster !!!

My build is done, I was just wondering. I like bouncing ideas off of different mechanics.

[jdms13rhd]

As for break in, I keep hearing "use cheap miniral based oil, changed again after 20 mins the take it for a drive with no boost, max 5000rpm. That's all pretty vague and information is missing.

Your in Lethbridge, right? I use whoop up dr for engine brake in. It doesnt get any better. I build an engine I go right to the top on the west side, Haul ass half throttle 4.5k to the bridge and then coast down and then off vacuum on the way up. Do that a few times increasing by 1K and a few cool downs and its happy sailing after that. The coasting helps bed the rings in quite well. Its really a perfect valley to do it in.

[333]

Frank, fill the engine up with regular Castrol GTS german stuff, Lucas oil additive with high zinc content. Start the engine, run it for 20 minutes between 1000 - 2400 RPM, step the RPM up from 1000 at intervals. After 20 minutes shut the engine down, drain the oil, then add new mineral oil with lucas additive again. Run the car with factory boost for around 200 km, after 200 kms drain the oil fill it up with regular oil again and run it for 500 -800 km hard (increased boost). drain the oil again, add your synthetic oil, and you are good to go, drive it like you stole it. I've done all my engine break ins the same way and never had a problem. Cam can atest to how my engines hold up when he's trying to kill them on the dyno.
Nersan

[NismoS-tune]

I live in Fort Mac... Thanks for the input guys! I'll start planning for that kind of break-in then. So after all that, you guys do compression tests before driving it hard to ensure everything is good?

As for factory boost, I don't have that. I don't have a boost controller so 300whp is the minimum unless it would be ok to only have 1 turbo waste gate working for half boost?

As for the 1000-2400 rpm, what kind of intervals are you talking about? 2 mins? 1 min? 5 mins? constant throttle blurps?

[333]

forgot to add, alternate rpm's between high and low 2 min at a time or more, go from eg 1200 to 18, 1900 then down to 1500 then up to 2200 etc.