Is this a NUR or STD block. Pictures inside

[evilgtr]

what kind of pistons and rings do you have ? Cp ? why dont you phone them and get a more technical desription of how they feel you should use there product to maximise the break in period. no on would no better.

[GTRADDICT]

My thoughts exactly! Good guy after all we've been through getting it back to me. Speaking of which, does anyone know a good break-in method for this engine? The Pistons are CP so they may not like the hard break-in. I have disconnected the turbo dumps for an easy start but how to actually break it in?!

Here's what Rob told me from RIPS

hit em pretty hard after you have done a 3-5 minute warm up and cool down from the initial start up, just so you can check for leaks and bleed the cooling system properly etc.

I usually do 20-30 minutes then change the oil to the same running in oil, then do another 30-45 minutes getting up to around 3/4 power and around 1500-2000rpm off peek.

Then change the oil to the good stuff and go for it.

Rob

[NismoS-tune]

Different pistons rings may need different methods I was told. I heard CP doesn't suggest hard break-ins lol.

Here's what Rob told me from RIPS

hit em pretty hard after you have done a 3-5 minute warm up and cool down from the initial start up, just so you can check for leaks and bleed the cooling system properly etc.

I usually do 20-30 minutes then change the oil to the same running in oil, then do another 30-45 minutes getting up to around 3/4 power and around 1500-2000rpm off peek.

Then change the oil to the good stuff and go for it.

Rob

[GTRADDICT]

Good to know!

[collector240sx]

I know, a little off topic, I probably should have started a new tread, but anyway since someone pointed out the rings.

Why are gasoline engine top rings not tapered like in diesel engine ? I have always wondered. It insure a proper seal,
and they last over 1 millions km in those rigs, with cylinder pressure much higher than we can safely expect from our car.

Thanks

P.S. if requested I'll start an other tread.

[cortexx]

a brand new or rebuilt engine mmmmmm lots of advice will be on the way

Break it in carefully, one says: “No more than 30 miles per hour until it has 1000 miles on the odo.”

“No,” another says. “Drive it like you stole it, if you want it to be fast.”

Others recommend synthetic oil, or nitrogen in the tires, or a mouse-milk oil additive, guaranteed to double fuel economy.

The ritual of breaking in a new car is part of the body of knowledge we refer to as conventional wisdom. It’s not necessarily wise, and the technology of building a modern automobile has evolved to the point where a lot of “wisdom” is obsolete. Few cars specify a break-in procedure anymore, simply cautioning you to avoid extreme acceleration or extended idling for the first thousand miles or so, and there’s little in the way of extra service up front. Some don’t even mandate an oil change until 6000 miles. We think your new ride deserves better. Here are a few tips.


Engine Cylinder Walls
Piston rings don’t rely on their spring tension to seal against the cylinder bores. Instead, combustion gases work their way between the rings and the piston and force the rings outward. During the first few minutes of engine operation, it’s important that the throttle be opened pretty far at lower rpms to provide this high pressure. Otherwise, the rings won’t burnish the cylinder walls properly, and the engine will have high volumes of blow-by—which means excessive oil consumption and shortened engine life. If you’ve ever seen the car jockeys who drive new cars off the end of the production line into the storage lot, or the transporter drivers zipping up and down the car-hauler ramps, you’ll realize that this all-important step has been performed for you many times. If you’re installing a new engine, simply give it a few seconds of wide-open throttle in a high gear. For the first thousand miles, avoid constant speeds and throttle settings. If you commute in normal stop-and-go traffic, you’ll be fine. I advise against cruise-controlled sojourns across Nebraska.


Bearings
The admonition to keep engine revs low for an extended break-in period stems from the days when bearing and crankshaft manufacturing tolerances were far less rigorous and lubricating oil wasn’t nearly as good. While modern engines are assembled to much the same design clearances, the tolerances are much tighter, meaning the variability is smaller, greatly reducing the possibility of a tight spot. Redlining a fresh motor is generally a bad idea, but there’s no reason you shouldn’t drive normally. I would, however, avoid top-speed testing, drag racing or towing heavy trailers for the first 1000 miles.


Oil
I customarily change the oil in a new engine after about 20 miles, and again at 1000 or so. That 20-mile oil, you would think, would look pretty much like fresh oil right out of the bottle. Wrong. It usually looks more like metal-flake paint, iridescent with tiny particles of metal worn off rubbing surfaces inside the new engines. After a few hours of operation, this completely normal phenomenon slows down as the rings, camshaft, lifters and bearings burnish their respective mating surfaces.

[NismoS-tune]

Wow, that's more than I was looking for in the first place! Nice details!

So! No need for an oil change after the first 20 minute run up (for leak checks)?

About the WOT in higher gear for low rpm, anything more detailed to know about that like 1-2000rpm and back off for X amount of time or 1500-3000 and back off? Just curious. I'm sure I'm looking into it too hard. I just wanna be certain because my clutch, front/rear diffs need to be broken in differently too...


What kind of oil do you recommend off the start? Go directly to synthetic or like I've heard, mineral based oil like castrol GTX or something cheap for the first 1000miles? What about turbos? I disconnected my wastegates so they just flop around so I can WOT without boost... is that better? I've sent a fair chunk of change into this lump and wouldn't mind doing things right.

a brand new or rebuilt engine mmmmmm lots of advice will be on the way

Break it in carefully, one says: “No more than 30 miles per hour until it has 1000 miles on the odo.”

“No,” another says. “Drive it like you stole it, if you want it to be fast.”

Others recommend synthetic oil, or nitrogen in the tires, or a mouse-milk oil additive, guaranteed to double fuel economy.

The ritual of breaking in a new car is part of the body of knowledge we refer to as conventional wisdom. It’s not necessarily wise, and the technology of building a modern automobile has evolved to the point where a lot of “wisdom” is obsolete. Few cars specify a break-in procedure anymore, simply cautioning you to avoid extreme acceleration or extended idling for the first thousand miles or so, and there’s little in the way of extra service up front. Some don’t even mandate an oil change until 6000 miles. We think your new ride deserves better. Here are a few tips.


Engine Cylinder Walls
Piston rings don’t rely on their spring tension to seal against the cylinder bores. Instead, combustion gases work their way between the rings and the piston and force the rings outward. During the first few minutes of engine operation, it’s important that the throttle be opened pretty far at lower rpms to provide this high pressure. Otherwise, the rings won’t burnish the cylinder walls properly, and the engine will have high volumes of blow-by—which means excessive oil consumption and shortened engine life. If you’ve ever seen the car jockeys who drive new cars off the end of the production line into the storage lot, or the transporter drivers zipping up and down the car-hauler ramps, you’ll realize that this all-important step has been performed for you many times. If you’re installing a new engine, simply give it a few seconds of wide-open throttle in a high gear. For the first thousand miles, avoid constant speeds and throttle settings. If you commute in normal stop-and-go traffic, you’ll be fine. I advise against cruise-controlled sojourns across Nebraska.


Bearings
The admonition to keep engine revs low for an extended break-in period stems from the days when bearing and crankshaft manufacturing tolerances were far less rigorous and lubricating oil wasn’t nearly as good. While modern engines are assembled to much the same design clearances, the tolerances are much tighter, meaning the variability is smaller, greatly reducing the possibility of a tight spot. Redlining a fresh motor is generally a bad idea, but there’s no reason you shouldn’t drive normally. I would, however, avoid top-speed testing, drag racing or towing heavy trailers for the first 1000 miles.


Oil
I customarily change the oil in a new engine after about 20 miles, and again at 1000 or so. That 20-mile oil, you would think, would look pretty much like fresh oil right out of the bottle. Wrong. It usually looks more like metal-flake paint, iridescent with tiny particles of metal worn off rubbing surfaces inside the new engines. After a few hours of operation, this completely normal phenomenon slows down as the rings, camshaft, lifters and bearings burnish their respective mating surfaces.

[jdms13rhd]

Here's what Rob told me from RIPS

hit em pretty hard after you have done a 3-5 minute warm up and cool down from the initial start up, just so you can check for leaks and bleed the cooling system properly etc.

I usually do 20-30 minutes then change the oil to the same running in oil, then do another 30-45 minutes getting up to around 3/4 power and around 1500-2000rpm off peek.

Then change the oil to the good stuff and go for it.

Rob

Yep, I do practically the same thing. funny

Lethbridge has a valley between the west and south side. Lights at the top of each side with a long stretch of flat area at the top of each side. I start at the top on the west side and go full throttle till 4K and then keep at around 120km, once I reach the down hill part, I coast down. (helps bed in the rings with load and vacuum. Once I get to the bottom I keep partial throttle till half the way up the other side, Then I give it slightly over vacuum to the top. I repeat a couple times going another 700rpm higher every run approx. go home change oil, and shes pretty much ready to go.

Done that with Cp`s on new bore and before and after leak down and compression tests and i normally get a better number once done. Engines still running to this day.

I dont think it is as technical as everyone has portrayed it. I think as long as the engine doesnt get thrashed at the beginning and it gets to see vacuum with load and load with boost and a lil in between with an after oil change, she sets in just fine. I talk to people that go right to dyno time and they swear by it too. Not sure Id feel comfortable going right into it but a little boot around some hills should do er. Just my opinion anyways. seems to be fairly reliable for long term.

[NismoS-tune]

What about having only 1 turbo waste gated, would that cause issues on one bank compared to the other so I don't get full boost?

[GTRADDICT]

Personnaly, when my truck (see signiture) was broken in. I reved it a bit, not pass 3500 (redline is 5500/6000) and vacuum. I feel that the engine should be broking in the same way it should be driven (minus the coast) just at less intensity. Has to see boost and vacuum. It's like warming up before an exercise.
m2c
Nick

[jdms13rhd]

I wouldn't bother disconnect the gates. Especially not one on a twin set up.

[NismoS-tune]

I wouldn't bother disconnect the gates. Especially not one on a twin set up.

Odd, Andrew from monkeynuts (ztune's guru back when) said to do this for break in. Mike from there also said that once. Not the 1 turbo part though, that was just a thought I had.

I made 1 bar (-5s) at 3500rpm WOT (with exhaust only done) so I'll have to lay off the throttle some then.

[GTRADDICT]

Odd, Andrew from monkeynuts (ztune's guru back when) said to do this for break in. Mike from there also said that once. Not the 1 turbo part though, that was just a thought I had.

I made 1 bar (-5s) at 3500rpm WOT (with exhaust only done) so I'll have to lay off the throttle some then.

Is it me or your response is pretty good!

[hozer]

don't use synthetic to break it in. Do couple hundred km with regular then switch to synthetic.

[JNS Performance]

^^^ correct, use either break in oil or basic conventional oil for about 1000kms or until the gas stops stinking like gas which either comes first with lots and lots of oil changes