What's a good but cheap generic catch can?

[cobrAA]

What size should I look for? round or square? 800ml ? hose should be 9 or 15mm ?

Many Thanks!!

and is it wrong to remove the carbon canister in order to fit the catch can there? after 20 year does the canister still do his job in term of emission?

[amnash]

http://www.performance-wise.net/page47.htm

take your pick lol, there's like 15 different ones.
performance-wise is on here too can pm him

[Super_Dude]

I've got an attkd(above motor) and endless(in front of battery) for sale. If your interested let me know.

[Tony-R32]

I have 2 obx cans, they work good and look good and they are usually a little bit cheaper than anyone else. 20-25 oz should be sufficient but you can go biger if you want!

[Skym]

Your meant to have at least half the sump capacity (4? litre sump) or basically 2 litre for racetrack. For street can get away with a 1 litre catch tank.

Can run 2x 1 litre catch tanks with return to sump on 1st catch tank (I think can use oil return on turbo), so don't need to drain catch tank after a few laps.

For example on a RB20DET -

http://skylinist.blog.eonet.jp/hcr32/2009/09/post-2c18.html

It's legal in many country's due to being a recirculation setup (like factory). To atmosphere is usually for race use only.

Hose inside diameter matches stock PCV breather hose inside diameter that goes from engine breather to hardpipe, which goes to rubber intake pipe infront of turbo.

[archaeic_bloke]

a catch tank is still one of those things I just havent gotten around to buying yet... how necessary do you figure they are? the oem setup just has blowby oil and fumes being fed into the turbo and burnt through the engine. I figure the best way is with the drain to sump separator, and vent the fumes in the exhaust pipe...
but really? does anyone really have so much blow by? if they do, doesnt that mean piston rings are nearing the end of their life? whats the story here.?

[jdms13rhd]

Your meant to have at least half the sump capacity (4? litre sump) or basically 2 litre for racetrack. For street can get away with a 1 litre catch tank.

Can run 2x 1 litre catch tanks with return to sump on 1st catch tank (I think can use oil return on turbo), so don't need to drain catch tank after a few laps.

For example on a RB20DET -

http://skylinist.blog.eonet.jp/hcr32/2009/09/post-2c18.html

Thats a really good way to run it I have something very similar to that on my race car only my final catch is atmo. Im diggin the drain back on the primary with a good baffled secondary.

That can be a bit of a project to get done in a nicely fashion, so those cheapo greddy/obx or like catches get the job done decently when they are vented back into the intake on a daily car keeping the pvc in tact.

As for your charcoal can.... Id say just leave it unless you really need the space. If you do decide to ditch it make sure you vent your fuel tank into a safe location

[jdms13rhd]

a catch tank is still one of those things I just havent gotten around to buying yet... how necessary do you figure they are? the oem setup just has blowby oil and fumes being fed into the turbo and burnt through the engine. I figure the best way is with the drain to sump separator, and vent the fumes in the exhaust pipe...
but really? does anyone really have so much blow by? if they do, doesnt that mean piston rings are nearing the end of their life? whats the story here.?

I think for a street engine that has all the oem stuff still in order, there isnt much need to do a catch.
I once tried one of those valves on the exhaust after a catch and the extra "pull" I got created smoke pluming out of the exhaust to the point I figured the turbo blew itself. This was on a 580whp RB2.7 with a tiny primary vented right to the exhaust (no drain). Then bought a moroso catch with a big filter on top (vented atmo) and didnt have any issues after that. That was on a drift car with very short "laps". Id like to try the exhaust vent again with a better set up tho. Might run a separator/drain and then at least one decent sized baffled catch and then vent to exhaust. Drilling out the factory oil returns also helps hard breathing and same with the oil drain mod that everyone does. I believe is serves double duty as a drain and a vent depending on the driving conditions.

On high hp cars that see high rev's for extended periods of time, your going to get some blow by from the engine simply breathing. I think those separators that drain to the sump are a must when your designing a high hp high rev engine. Almost all rb engines I have seen that were designed for race use run some form of that set up.

[Tony-R32]

Although i do have an oil catch can, i was refering to the one i use for my coolant catch tank.

It serves no extra purpose except for the fact that it looks much better than the stock coolant tank.

[cobrAA]

Although i do have an oil catch can, i was refering to the one i use for my coolant catch tank.

It serves no extra purpose except for the fact that it looks much better than the stock coolant tank.

Now, I will sound like a total idiot since I own my rb26 for 3 years now but where's the oem coolant catch tank?

[amnash]

my setup when i got the car goes from the valve cover breathers, and then just dumps everything to atmosphere lol cant be right..

[Skym]

Do you mean radiator overflow tank next to battery?

First time I noticed the 2x catch can setup (Group-A RICOH? GTS-R in Japan) -



Gibson Group-A R32GTR has same setup but has a 9 litre or so custom baffled sump and note 1st tank is on exhaust side (probably draining to oil return on turbo) -



Mines R34GTR runs a similar setup with smaller first tank on turbo side (I assume using turbo oil drain) and secondary tank being very big in size (sump must be bigger capacity than factory or they matched sump capacity with second tank) -



I'm not sure that they recirculated to intake or vented to atmosphere. I think it needs a suction / vacuum source. I know from experience that if you vent sump (via turbo oildrain would be venting sump) to atmosphere that it makes the engine stutter at idle, so it must be using intake manifold as a suction / vacuum source.

[Tony-R32]

Now, I will sound like a total idiot since I own my rb26 for 3 years now but where's the oem coolant catch tank?

Mines not even a catch tank, my coolant resevoir was replaced with a catch can, it looks much better. I'm going to rig up a new set up this summer where the smaller but better looking one is in place and then the other not so good looking one will be there just incase with a tube going into it because i lost the cap to that one so it will be like a catch tank for my coolant resevoir.

The first catch tank that replaced the coolant resevoir was put in by the origional owner, but i some how lost the cap so im going to change it up just a bit to make it better looking.

And to answer your question i don't think there is a stock coolant catch can, just the stock coolant resevoir under the drivers side fender.

[cobrAA]

okkk so your coolant is aftermarket ?

[Tony-R32]

yup. has a hose tapped into the bottom and goes to the rad, needs to be vented some how though so that the coolant level can fluctuate when it heats up and cools down.