Rb20det running lean and throwing egt/cat sensor code. Help

[redrocket]

hello, so i recently installed an AEM UEGO sensor *following instructions* on my RB20. i took it for a rip after it was good and warm and it seems to be leaning out to around 15.5 and upwards to where at full boost it just shows bars (unreadable). at the same time my EGT/catalytic converter sensor light shows up. i want to be running rich but it seems as if i am leaning out. below are the mods i have and what i am running currently, (i just pulled the car out of hibernation)

RB20DET

FMIC
NGK iridium heat range 6 ***NEW***
divorced wastegate pipe
3"downpipe
3" testpipe (EGT sensor is hose clamped to the top of it as there is no bung, as people recommend when not using a cat)
3"exhaust
HKS intake
HKS atmospheric SSQV
new oil
new fuel filter
LUCAS FUEL TREATMENT (as it has been sitting all winter)
HUSKY 94 octane fuel

now what i need help with is shutting that code off whether it be looping the wire or just cutting the wires at the sensor and seperating them. does that code being thrown cause the ecu to run less fuel? Do i just need to break in the plugs? the sensor throws the code as soon as i start the engine and it WILL NOT go out. is there anything i can do to run more rich. i know its less efficient but it is a daily and i want it reliable...plus i am the "**** disturber" with my loud car on my quiet street...i might as well give the neighbors a fire show too. THANK YOU AND YOUR HELP IS GRRRRREAATLY APPRECIATED

[redrocket]

p.s. does that sensor put the car into limp mode when its on? i drove it and it still pulls hard. im just wondering if it would lean out the mixture. i think if anything the ecu would put more fuel in it........

[beacher1B0]

Find yourself the R32 Engine Service Manual and R32 GTR service manual. It will help u to diagnose problems in the future.

What CODE # is the ECU throwin?
Not sure if the Cat temp light would throw it in to limp mode, it would make sense if it did.
With ignition ON the cat temp sensor light should be OFF. With ignition in Start it should be ON, then turn off when car starts.
Unplug Cat Temp Sensor harness from module under Passenger Seat. Looking at the HARNESS PLUG( not module) head on, the locking tab should be at the top. Ground the bottom right terminal, Turn Ignition ON, The light should go out. If light is OFF, it was the sensor that was throwing the code. Also im sure you could just permanently ground the Terminal on the Harness Plug.
If the light is ON you have a problem else where(harness etc).

Also, make sure your UEGO gauge has a great clean ground. I would not b pushing your car with AFRs that LEAN, you will go bOOm soon.

[vincegts]

i have the same problem ? i changede the fuel filter and it got alot better

[vincegts]

my hot cat light is on how can i get codes from it ? it flashs

[redrocket]

Never thought of the ground. Its on the hoodrelease boltunder my dash. Ill try

[redrocket]

my hot cat light is on how can i get codes from it ? it flashs

If you have a pfc yourr detonating

[redrocket]

Update. Ex leak 10" past uego. No intake leaks. Coing to 7 plugs and swapping ecu

[redrocket]

For the blitz tuned access ecu. Should help as the fuel map is different?

[Skym]

That cat sensor light can come on for a few reasons -

Cat sensor is not earthed to exhaust or exhaust temps are past 800? degrees C (I think when it activates the light).
ECU is in diagnostic mode, not run mode (screw on side of ECU)

Both of which I've experienced on my car (not the temp part). The cat light would light up when hitting bump in the road (due to screw not being fully in run mode on side of ECU).

Basically cat light is a engine check light as well as exhaust temp overheat light. Other light's on dash are similar, like handbrake light is a low fluid level in brake master cylinder resouvoir light (due to leak) and telling you handbrake is engaged.

[redrocket]

Perfect. So I'm going to swap ecus check the old one and run a colder plug. Well see

[redrocket]

old plugs were white. New plugs and blitz ecu. 12-14.5 WOT. 16 off tthrottle coast. ideas?

[redrocket]

Also went from 1.1mmgap to 0.762

[redrocket]

Find yourself the R32 Engine Service Manual and R32 GTR service manual. It will help u to diagnose problems in the future.

What CODE # is the ECU throwin?
Not sure if the Cat temp light would throw it in to limp mode, it would make sense if it did.
With ignition ON the cat temp sensor light should be OFF. With ignition in Start it should be ON, then turn off when car starts.
Unplug Cat Temp Sensor harness from module under Passenger Seat. Looking at the HARNESS PLUG( not module) head on, the locking tab should be at the top. Ground the bottom right terminal, Turn Ignition ON, The light should go out. If light is OFF, it was the sensor that was throwing the code. Also im sure you could just permanently ground the Terminal on the Harness Plug.
If the light is ON you have a problem else where(harness etc).

Also, make sure your UEGO gauge has a great clean ground. I would not b pushing your car with AFRs that LEAN, you will go bOOm soon.

the egt sensor was throwing the light on. i grounded like you said and it lit up in *start* mode(engine off) and went out upon ign and engine running. you saved me alot of restless nights! KUDOS!

UPDATE

and almost done =D. swapped out the new (25kms) iridium 6 heat range plugs that were gapped to 1.1mm WHITE (guess it was lean) for ngk bcpr7es copper plugs that are gapped to .762. the idle is crap compared to the iridiums and the gap. at idle it bops every so often (like a miss but thats how it was before i got these issues, its liveable). i pulled out a RE MANUFACTURED ECU and swapped the blitz tuned access ecu (set to run mode). the AFR's are 12-14.5 WOT 2nd and 3rd. anywhere from 13 up to --- on the uego off throttle in gear coast after a hard burn. 12.5-14.5 at idle at temp. cold it will go --- until it heats up then fluctuate then slowly creep down. i read the blitz ecus have a more aggressive tune as far as leanness goes. it is the opposite to a mines as the blitz causes it to run more lean and the mines riches it out to the point where on my friends rb20 he blows 3 footers and upon throttle taps the gauge goes from 12 to the total bottom(richest). Still have no pings, knocks, rattly nails and i can bomb it to redline with ONLY the sweet sweet (im gunna tear your face off) exhaust sound in my ears. can hear the valves a little but that should be normal. i have access to a warlboro 255 fuel pump that i think ill throw on just for giggles. anyone have any ideas how to drop my afr's more or anything i missed? your help is greatly appreciated as i am planning a swap over the winter and not at the start of summer!

[redrocket]

Runs not good at idle but drives ok. Smell gas. Trouble starting cold. Fuel punp?