Redline problem and stall

[GTRADDICT]

AACV +1 if it stalls it could be the CAS also!?!?

[TheyKilledKenny]

MORE INFO ON CHATTERING/BOGGING PROBLEM

My car runs fine when cold, and just warmed and still moving. Once I decide to let it sit and idle or a minute or two when hot it dies, and sometimes is hard to start after. Once I start it up its idle jumps up to 1800RPM and the chattering at 2500RPM when driving occurs with constant bogging. I noticed last night when I took it for a drive when it started chattering at 2.5k the cat overheat light came on each time for a split second...today the light never came on. I wonder if its my AACV and not my TPS/MAF?

[Rx7desu]

^ mine has been acting the same exact way. I am thinking of getting some sort of standalone ECU to say **** it to this stock one but I'd rather know what exactly is the issue. I had my ECU sodered previously for bost issue of it not kicking in.

[TheyKilledKenny]

Nah I have a bracket holding it down, this sucks =(

[Andrewc]

Sounds like MAF issues, the videos look exactly like a maf problem.
If you have a pod filter, is the maf secured in your engine bay or is it bouncing around as you're driving since the airbox isn't holding it anymore. The intake hose is flexible enough to allow it to bounce around in there, making it do that aswell.

[TheyKilledKenny]

Not trying to thread jack but Ive having the same issues, this just started happening to me today. I washed my engine bay on Tuesday, and everything was working fine, I covered my fusebox and pod air filter. I took my car out today (Friday) and everything seemed fine as I went to the shop to get an wheel alignment done. The tech finished aligning my wheels and took my car for a little cruise to test out his work. As he passed the shop I heard the car struggling on the road, and thought "oh god, this guy cant drive a standard." He comes back and asks me if Ive been having issues with it, I told him no. He says it wasnt revving up and it was stalling, he had to keep the pedal pinned to make it back to the shop. I reset my ecu, and left the shop, and of course it started happening to me.

When I get it up to about 2500RPM it starts to chatter and bog out, but not all the time. I checked for codes, and supposedly Im "55". If I keep shifting at 2500RPM while its doing this and get into 4th or 5th gear it will usually go away for a bit and let me rev past 3-4K RPM. I can then down shift into a lower gear and still rev past 3-4K, but it still has the occasional bog out and lurch.

Ive tried playing with my TPS trying to find a sweet spot to no avail. I set it all the way clockwise when it was doing this to me after I left the shop, and the Idle fluctuated between 1500 and 2000 RPM (figured it would be higher all the way over), I didnt have my multimeter so its hard to say where it was. I made it home because it was mostly freeway and the car doesnt seem to run poorly when maintaining a good speed in a high gear.

I checked for codes again, still none. I got my multimeter out and reset my TPS to .48V(750RPM) and went for a drive. It runs fine for a while, but at some point when sitting at a light it just stalls and becomes hard to start. When I finally do get it started the idle is high (1500RPM) and sometimes it even starts jumping around quickly between 1-2K. I turned on my lights when it was doing this quick rev jumping and it leveled out the idle at a crazy high 1900RPM. Took it for a drive and it still was bogging/chattering/lurching. I checked the voltage at my fuel pump when it was doing this and its around 13.55V the whole time. A lot of the time the idle is steady (but stalls), but in this one instance that I caught on the first video it went berserk.

INFO - New fuel filter, fuel pump, clean resoldered MAF, fairly new plugs, good fuel pressure (Tomei reg + gauge).

Could my TPS cause my vehicle to run like this? Or have I been visited by a electrical ghost?

Im posting videos as they upload, any help would be appreciated.

click on video for direct link

[derbeck]

hey if you need to know how to fix maf pm me it takes around an hour and about $15 (soldering iron and black silcone)

[95skyline]

I do have a boost controller.
Pretty sure it's electrical sensors, everytime I read on this issue of limp mode and chugging it's from the MAF or low maintence.

I Would spend the time fixing it but, would have to park for a while to clean out entire maf sensor and check all the linkages, for bad connections. As well as check out my ECU for the codes. Probably go over all the lines...

Untill then im fixing up UPS body kit breaking... dank weeds.

[Rx7desu]

I am a similer issue occasionally happening to my R32 GTS-T - weird part is though, when I wait long enough for the car to warm up it stops doing that but I have a factory ECU so I doubt it has boost control features

[95skyline]

Will try vacuum line, thanks their

Will look around for someone too do a consult, and test all the sensors and electrical.

Yeah, I was reading, and someone offered to do a reflash on the ecu.
When I have it sitting in my garage ill pull off that panal and check so.

[DarkCaporaL]

As for
CODES? Can you guys explain more on codes? How would one check the "codes?".
Not electical savy.

ECU is in the passenger side foot panel. On the ECU there is a screw and a LED (maybe two depending on the model). Screw should be a couple degrees before full clockwise for run mode (there is also a line showing this). To get into diagnostic mode, you turn the screw clockwise to the end, then fully counter clockwise. The LED should start to flash. Code 55 means all is ok.

If you do a quick search there is a thread on here with all the codes/procedures since you can also check rich/lean with the LED.

[stinkyskyline]

i had a similar problem but it was because the vacuum line to the waste gate actuator fell off try that lol hopefully its just that simple

[95skyline]

Thank, you everyone.

Will, check MAF and sensors/connections as listed, also I put a HKS reloaded on order.

As for
CODES? Can you guys explain more on codes? How would one check the "codes?".
Not electical savy.

[GTRADDICT]

1. Check for codes
2. Check for rich mixture (AFR) and 3k limiter = limp mode.
3. Resolder MAF, if needed.

As for the turning problem... Check P/S pump and wiring where they might get kinked/ground in the turning process

[derbeck]

also sounds like a maf resolder to me