Starting/Running problems

[mattk]

Hey all, so i finished my build on my rb20det and im having problems with to much fuel going to my cylinders. Most of the parts installed are.
-deatschwerks 550cc injectors
-Nistune
-AMS z32 maf
-Walbro
-GT3071R
-Tial 38mm wastegate
-tomei FPR
-splitfire coilpacks
-3" front mount intercooler
Thats most of it, The biggest problem right now is the injectors and the maf, cause thats the bigger changes at the moment that the ecu will reconize to get it running proper. Now at first i tried the base tune sent to me for the injectors and maf. The maf is brand new and i thought i would try AMS, but im getting a reading of 1.885 volts to it when i should be getting 0.5 volts at key on from what ive been told. So i eleminated that by just unplugging it cause it is faulty. And yes i have triple checked the wiring for maf. When i had my car running it required 5 psi so that it wouldnt get too much fuel to the cylinders. I got around this problem by unplugging O2 sensor and was able to idle at about 37 psi of fuel pressure. But im still running to rich. Ive been told that all i need to do is move k constant for injectors down to reduce the fuel consumtion to injectors. Not so much luck at the moment. Still stuck at a rough idle between 9-10:1 afr. I also cant give it any gas or it will stall. Tomorrow im going to wire in stock maf and see if this fixes problem. Im getting stumped over this issue because the tuner at Auto Dream said it shouldnt require that must adjustment to get car running or i have a mechanical issue. Ive checked the basics like fuel and spark. It just seems like im getting way to much fuel to cylinders. It would greatly appreciated if some one could head me in the right direction. Im not sure if i should play around with latency as well or not, cause like thhe tuner said it shouldnt require much more tinkering then what came with the base tune. Any direction on were to go would be greatly appreciated
Thanks in advance
Matt

[mattk]

Well i wired in the stock afm, changed afm in nistune to suit oem one. The results were alot better, i was able to idle consistently with afr at 13:1 on warm up and then back down to 10ish;1. So still rich but its getting better. On that note i went ahead and pulled out the timing light since i was able to acheive a stable idle at 650 rpm. The timing was way out, just past last tick on harmonic balancer, so it was close to 35ish degrees. I adjusted cas to retard timing back down to 15 degrees and i was able to rev and drop back down to an idle. I am still fine tuning the k value to acheive 14.7:1. I was also reading on the nistune tuning pdf that when you switch to bigger injectors the latency should not have to be adjusted if the new injectors are made by the same manufacturer. For instance it says jecs which is a common part made on our cars also makes nismo, apexi, tomei, and hks injectors so the latency should not need much adjusting if at all. So, my injectors are deatschwerks so im thinking i may have to play with the latency to fine tune. Anyways i might just go down for tune now seeing as my car is running fine, just a little rich at the moment. Between now and then im going to try and treak k constant and latency for injectors to get closer to stoichiometry. I will keep updated to see if i can make an improvement.

[M13]

https://www.nistune.com

[mattk]

www.nistune.com

Well ya, thats where i got the pdf from. lol

[mattk]

Update
So i got the car running good enough i thought to go down to a shop to see what could be causing this, and then get a tune in. So i went off for Calgary for my appointment with Autodream yesterday and droped off the car for a fresh start today. He put in a z32 maf and then went about performing diagnostics to find why its still rich. He is still not sure what is causing the problem, but one thing he did find was the engine is seeing load at idle. He said a typical skyline would see about 14 on the tp load scale but im seeing 23 at idle. possible vac leak! He went ahead and checked the timing belt and said it was fine, which i knew because i double checked that. Then to top it off, i go back to the shop to see if any progress was made to hear that he took it for a drive up and down the alley and heard a clunk. he gets out and notices the crankshaft bolt has snapped up to the threads in the crank. So im pissed now, he said he never touched the balancer at all to check timing. So now they are trying to get bolt out and cant. **** me, what a waste of a 9 hour drive here. He told me he will try to get it out, put another in and try to tune tomorrow. Not to promising for me because of that bolt and the tp load scale but i quess we will see tomorow morning. Another thing i was told was that deatchswerks injectors are not that good because they have the tendency to puddle when spraying fuel(Dripping out instead of misting out) Which makes it hard to atomise the fuel with air.

[mattk]

Todays update

Today there was no luck getting the bolt for the harmonic balancer off Winn said at autodream. He was kind enough to charge no labor, so i only had to buy the maf. So the plans are to extract the broken bolt out of crank if even possible when i get back home. And try looking for vac leaks, iacv valve or any thing that could be causing me to have a higher tp load factor then normal. Just cant figure it out. We tried a different ECM with nistune, didnt fix problem/ got a good working MAF now. The car runs but is still rich, and the leading cause of this is becuase of the higher tp load scale factor that im getting, so im told. Has anyone else had any type of similiar problems that would be able to shed some light on a factor that could also be causing any of this?

[Supraclean]

Matt if it was me, I would Take off my intake plenum/ lines and REPLACE every vacline posible with new hose clamps. 2nd I would Reseal my plenum with not only the stock gasket but some extra black gasket seal from CT. Also did you put ground wires on your car? Idunno if this might help but when I replaced my intake man/ exhuast I noticed old broken ground wires and replaced them with new ones.

Maybe you wiring from your maf is geting grounded? not?

Rewire maf all the way back to ecu?

Hope that helps I wanna see this thing out to a GP car meet.

[Supraclean]

As I have had 0 issues with my Deatchwerks,I would never take my car to Autodream but if you must for nistune so be it.

[mattk]

Matt if it was me, I would Take off my intake plenum/ lines and REPLACE every vacline posible with new hose clamps. 2nd I would Reseal my plenum with not only the stock gasket but some extra black gasket seal from CT. Also did you put ground wires on your car? Idunno if this might help but when I replaced my intake man/ exhuast I noticed old broken ground wires and replaced them with new ones.

Maybe you wiring from your maf is geting grounded? not?

Rewire maf all the way back to ecu?

Hope that helps I wanna see this thing out to a GP car meet.

Ya man, ive been trying to get the car on the road so i can go to some meets. Heading back to GP today and im gonna look into these issues and get the broken bolt out in crank. The car runs nice except the rich issue which like i said is possibly caused by the differnt tp load im getting. I was getting compliments on my build there and they really wanted to see it go on the dyno. He doesnt know what could be causing this tp load factor/ never seen it happen before. Told me to let him know when i figure it out cause he is also curous. I would like to be able to go to more places for tuning though in the future, so im possibly looking into Vipec or other ECM replacement.

[Skym]

I agree about checking earths.

Have you checked TPS adjustment?, as TPS is used to add more fuel (not on idle contact) and is the only thing I can think of (if injectors, etc are setup correctly) that could cause rich problem around idle. I know on my car, that wiggling TPS plug made engine stall when at idle.

Knock sensors (engine knock) might affect the TP value on ECU, but not 100% sure.

[mattk]

[QUOTE=Skym;489344]I agree about checking earths.

Have you checked TPS adjustment?, as TPS is used to add more fuel (not on idle contact) and is the only thing I can think of (if injectors, etc are setup correctly) that could cause rich problem around idle. I know on my car, that wiggling TPS plug made engine stall when at idle.

As for the TPS i am getting 0.48 volts at closed throttle and just over 4 volts at wot. And on nistune i am getting the tps light to go on when the throttle plate is closed which is good. Im gonna see if theres any bad grounds, vac leak, and the horrible crank issue. Thanks for the imput.

[mattk]

Update

So I found the broken bolt was drilled at an angle making it hard to start a nice centered hole to extract bolt. So I machined a nice guiding system for some nice drill bits, and with a lot of time spent drilling I finally got a nice centered hole to insert a easyout. So with the easyout in I went about trying to get it out. It required a lot of torque to break it loose to find that it's just spinning in the crank. So crank is done unless I disassemble and send out for fixing if even possible. So the plan is to buy a rb20 with wiring, tranny, and all the goodies for a part storage for future mishaps. I am gonna throw my head I did all the work on and put it on another bottom end. My question now is where's a trustworthy place to buy a motor from, experiences others went through. I was looking at Toronto jdm but it's a ways away.