Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Crankshaft Pully Removal.... HELP!!!!!!!

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Crankshaft Pully Removal.... HELP!!!!!!!

    im trying to replace my water pump but i can seem to find a socket to remove the large 5-point bolt. does anyone know the socket size or do you need a special tool to remove it




    thanks, Tom

  • #2
    I think either a 19 or 21MM should work. It's on there super tight, you'll need 2 people and a good breaker bar to get it loose.
    Basically put the breaker bar w/socket on the crank bolt, use a 2x4 or something along those lines to brace it up against towards the passenger side of the engine bay. One person holds the end of the breaker against the 2x4 and the other person "bumps" the engine with the key and presto! The crank bolt should snap loose. Only do short quick bumps, don't hold the key and crank. Also a good idea to disconnect your ignitor so your engine doesn't turn over and start, that would be bad.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    1989 R32 Skyline GTR SOLD!!!!

    The key to immortality is first living a life worth remembering.
    -Bruce Lee

    Comment


    • #3
      Originally posted by feyd182 View Post
      Also a good idea to disconnect your ignitor so your engine doesn't turn over and start, that would be bad.
      Definitely this. :|
      Double track drift, yo.
      http://www.meh.ro/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/meh.ro5228.gif

      (oo sκylιnε oo)

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by tommyboy View Post
        im trying to replace my water pump but i can seem to find a socket to remove the large 5-point bolt. does anyone know the socket size or do you need a special tool to remove it


        thanks, Tom
        5 point bolt...? que?

        Comment


        • #5
          Crank bolt size?

          RB26 is 30mm RB20 is 27mm.

          If that's what you are wondering.
          Heart rate 160, I'm goin 260, RB26 run me past you in a jiffy

          GT-R

          O O SKYLINE O O

          Comment


          • #6
            Buy a fricken good compressor and impact gun. You will save lots headaches.
            Dang! You got shocks, pegs... Lucky! You ever take it off any sweet jumps?

            Comment


            • #7
              Put ur ebrake on/block the rear wheels and put ur car in gear and use a decent size breaker bar
              1991 skyline GTS-T - first import/winter project

              Comment


              • #8
                a good way to secure the crank pulley without damaging anything is to use some strong rope, wrap it around the grooves of the pulley and secure it to something like the power steering mounting bracket and other parts of the chassis

                I had to use a 3/4 drive breaker bar rated 800ftlbs+ to crack my crank pulley bolt, but I basically tried everything short of a massive impact gun, and the ropes worked the best for me

                Comment


                • #9
                  like people have said 30mm rb26, 27mm rb20. putting the breaker bar under the rad support and turning the car over works, just make sure you have a good breaker bar (not princess auto) or it'll literally grenade. An impact gun will also work, it can be tricky to get one in between the rad support tho.
                  “Hey, come on, its a car right? No. It’s a symbol of your history, its a thread of continuity from which you came to where you are. It’s important that you don’t want to forget who you are.” -Dr.Phil in "Love the Beast"

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by gezed View Post
                    a good way to secure the crank pulley without damaging anything is to use some strong rope, wrap it around the grooves of the pulley and secure it to something like the power steering mounting bracket and other parts of the chassis

                    I had to use a 3/4 drive breaker bar rated 800ftlbs+ to crack my crank pulley bolt, but I basically tried everything short of a massive impact gun, and the ropes worked the best for me
                    +1 that's exactly how I did it when I did my timing belt and poncams,
                    Wrap it around the pulleys then tie it off at the frame
                    Somewhere and your golden

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      lol i tried the starter trick with a princess auto breaker bar, the bar was okay but didn't do it for me

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        princess auto bar for me lol. it took a couple 'starts'.

                        don't forget to coat the threads with oil when putting it back in
                        oh hai!

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Mine was on so tight I was breaking 2x4's wedged into the crank pins. I ended up using a cutting torch and heated the bolt head up red hot and then hit it with a 3/4 inch impact wrench. This is the way the engine shop has to get them out. There is thead lock on it as well. Freaken unbeleivable, it took me 2 weeks to finally find out how to get the blasted thing off. You then need a bucket of water to throw the pulley into to prevent damaging the rubber in it. The bolt is torgued in at something like 350 foot pounds and thread lock.

                          Edit : do not put oil on the threads when assembling it, you must use thread lock as the pulleys have a tendancy of falling off if you miss this step. This is what the engine shop told me. Oh and the small soldering torch for copper pipes lacks the big heat fast for heating the bolt cause I tried that too, you need a cutting torch !
                          Last edited by MR666; 03-15-2012, 11:55 AM.
                          " Using Fast and Honda in the same sentence is an Oxymoron "

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Thread lock on crank bolt sounds pretty baked to me. Unless you'd like spending another 2 weeks getting it off again. FSM clearly states to put oil on the threads.
                            Dang! You got shocks, pegs... Lucky! You ever take it off any sweet jumps?

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              how would heating a bolt make it easier to remove ? the bolt expands in the end of the crank making it even tighter . usually you heat the surrounding casting that the bolt is screwed into .

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X