My oil temp is reading 110-130 after a 20 minutes drive..

[cobrAA]

I'm wondering if this is normal or maybe my sensor is f*cked? I also read some ppl saying that the oil temp and water temp should be pretty much the same. Well my oem water temp from the ECU ( changed the sensor this year) show a 60-70 celcius. so my oil temps is like 2x the temp of my water. I think theres something wrong with my sensor or my cooling.

[frankiman]

oil temp shoudln't be over 80deg during normal driving

[cobrAA]

is your water temp close to your oil temp * normal driving* ?

[frankiman]

well my water thermostat is at 64 and my oil thermostat is at 75..
so thats my normal driving temps

[h4X6]

I'm assuming that's celcius? What's the in f?

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[Voodoo_ChildR32]

Mine runs roughly the same, 60-70* for coolant and 70-80* for oil. Sensor may be bad, but usually they give no signal instead of a high signal.


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[Skym]

Anything above 90 degrees C is too high with oiltemps (Mild modded RB20DET can reach 90 degrees C after a drive and has no oilcooler or heat exchanger like stock RB26, RB25 do). Race engines can run in 60-90 degrees range and oiltemps should be similar (stock is 80-90 degrees for coolant temp with stock thermostat).

Did you pull the dipstick and check the colour of oil on tip? Did you do a compression test?? Did you check coolant colour???

Why I ask, as I'm just checking that it did blow seal around cylinders and heat from cylinder didn't get into oil system.

[cobrAA]

Compression was done last year and cant recall the number but from memory everythign was around 160. Coolant has been changed 2 weeks ago. Oil is somewhat black butthats because I use royal purple which is dark purple to start with.

However, I do not have the stock heat exchange/oil cooler fitted on the block. It has been removed while the motor was beeing rebuild. I asked a mechanic if it could be reffited and his answer was that I needed to remove the motor again.

[bobbo]

I inquired about oil temps (how hot is too hot) with a teck from a BMW race team and apparetly max oil temps should never exceed about 125c. Normal driving depending on different factors between 80-90c.
My coolant temp w/o a/c on stays between 80-83c, slightly highernwith ac running and max on the track is ~90c.

[cobrAA]

Thanks! Good news, car is getting stored in less than 2 weeks but I will def. have to check that before the hot day come up next season! Only thing I can think is that my oil temp sensor is from greddy and my unit is from Ark design. So, maybe I should get myself an Ark design sensor and will know for sure if my reading are good or not.

[bobbo]

I've used temperature guns as another way to ascertain oil temps and the readings seem to be comparible to what the gauge says.
Too much oil parinoia with these cars IMO.

[MarusGTR]

well my water thermostat is at 64 and my oil thermostat is at 75..
so thats my normal driving temps

Kinda cool for you oil is it not? I'd rather want to have it around 85°C, but that's just because that's Nissan's recommended temp and you're probably running the thick stuff.

[Skym]

apparetly max oil temps should never exceed about 125c. Normal driving depending on different factors between 80-90c

Depends on what oil you are using, each oil (w40, w50, w60, etc) has a oiltemp where it gets too thin (cst) and breaks down. Too thick and it fails to get too bearings at higher rpm (could get bearing failure) and get rougher idle, sluggish response, etc. Factory is 7.5w30. Still have a sticker from factory (side of centre console on drivers side) and it says 5w30 on it for oil. If have a forged race engine the clearances change with forged pistons, so does oil you use.

CST rating is done at 100 degrees C and how thick it is (cst rating) for w30, w40, w50, etc are mentioned in this PDF -

http://www.opieoils.co.uk/pdfs/tech-articles/10w-60-oil.pdf

Note the w30 cst rating at 100 degrees C. I use a 10w40 (10 is recommended for hydraulic lifters, but it's suggested I should run 5w for better cold starting) due to engine has done high km's (clearances have widened).

However, I do not have the stock heat exchange/oil cooler fitted on the block. It has been removed while the motor was beeing rebuild. I asked a mechanic if it could be reffited and his answer was that I needed to remove the motor again.

That explains it. What size oilcooler core are you using and what's the hp of engine??? If oilcooler core is incorrectly sized to application, oiltemps can rise to higher levels than they should. If have stock heat exchanger, can run smaller oilcooler core (same applies to autotrans oilcooler cores, where without heat exchanger in bottom of radiator, fit a bigger oilcooler core).

[cobrAA]

Depends on what oil you are using, each oil (w40, w50, w60, etc) has a oiltemp where it gets too thin (cst) and breaks down. Too thick and it fails to get too bearings at higher rpm (could get bearing failure) and get rougher idle, sluggish response, etc. Factory is 7.5w30. Still have a sticker from factory (side of centre console on drivers side) and it says 5w30 on it for oil. If have a forged race engine the clearances change with forged pistons, so does oil you use.

CST rating is done at 100 degrees C and how thick it is (cst rating) for w30, w40, w50, etc are mentioned in this PDF -

http://www.opieoils.co.uk/pdfs/tech-articles/10w-60-oil.pdf

Note the w30 cst rating at 100 degrees C. I use a 10w40 (10 is recommended for hydraulic lifters, but it's suggested I should run 5w for better cold starting) due to engine has done high km's (clearances have widened).



That explains it. What size oilcooler core are you using and what's the hp of engine??? If oilcooler core is incorrectly sized to application, oiltemps can rise to higher levels than they should. If have stock heat exchanger, can run smaller oilcooler core (same applies to autotrans oilcooler cores, where without heat exchanger in bottom of radiator, fit a bigger oilcooler core).

I have none of them. no aftermarket oil cooler core and just a sandwich plate.