RB25 acting like a dumb blonde!

[l2u4k0assx]

http://www.facebook.com/video/video....56087784539119

Ok so i have a RB25DET Series 2. Ran beautiful for months and then the alt. took a crap on me. So i had a brilliant idea to take everything out and do all the necessary things while i had the engine and tranny out. I had the regular side mount and stock exhaust from the ka single cam. After 5 months of getting everything together and ready to put back in. the CEL and the same lights indicating the alt is bad show up right before you turn the engine over. while the engine is running it idles right where it belongs vacuum is at -20. So here's where the problems start

Problems-
when revving the engine the idle starts to bog all the way down to the point of dyeing
while i drive it and keep it a 3000rpm it will bog down like some sort of fuel cut
After revving the idle is inconsistent.
when i touch the injector wiring idle becomes a little erratic
starting to backfire like crazy as well


Solutions i have tried- the unplug method
TPS
coils
injectors
MAF
Also sprayed brake cleaner around any spot for vacuum leaks no changes in idle



Parts upgraded-
nissan quest alternator
90mm throttle body
Sard FPR
gt30 turbo- possibly bad, oil comes out of exhaust yet still builds boost.
modified stock turbo manifold w/ tial wastegate 8.9lb spring
freddy intake manifold
custom downpipe
front mount added


Any help and i will greatly appreciate it. Thank you

[r33_gtst]

Your harnesses may be corroded and causing a bad connection resulting in poor performance. Swap the harness, might be your issue if it changes when you touch it. And modifying a stock manifold to fit a wast gate..... if your doin all this work to your car, a better quality manifold will be a world of difference. The flow of a stock manifold is pretty poor compared to whats out there.

[amnash]

you pulled engine to change alt? crazy

[specialedition]

did you adjust your new fpr?

[l2u4k0assx]

ok so the harness is the wiring specialties. i mean it ran before hand no problem.

the pull of engine was to do the alt. and a few more things since i knew i would have time. yes, i could have ideally done everything with the engine still in (i.e, intake mani and exhaust mani bu ti thought it would have been more convenient to pill it out and do the necessary things.

The sard FPR is at 43 w/ vacuum i never adjusted it i put it in and thats where i left it.

[l2u4k0assx]

i have seen plenty of modified stock manifolds even rawbrokerage has been doing it as well and i wasn't in the mood to spend 900+ for something i can make myself.

[l2u4k0assx]

so sprayed brake cleaner near the number 2 injector and idle change slightly. possible work injector insulator?

[yanay]

I'm having the exact same problem let me know if you fix it!

[Skym]

Injector seals can leak and injector loom, coilpack loom (replaced as part of routine maintenance) are known to cause missing. Same with leaking intake manifold.

Also check that TPS is set correctly (engine nearly stalling can be caused by TPS not being set on idle contact and idle contact makes ECU kick rpm up) and hasn't failed.

Check o2 sensor, as when lazy it can make engine run rich longer which produces flames, popping sound from exhaust (can unplug o2 sensor and ECU goes into open loop where it ignores o2 sensor). But make sure engine is not running lean after unplugging the stock narrowband o2 sensor via using a wideband o2 sensor that's plumbed into exhaust before cat (consult documentation with wideband o2 sensor which tells you where to place it in exhaust).

The revlimiter part around 3000rpm can be due to ECU not seeing MAF and ECU switching into limp home mode, intake airleak before MAF if has a clamp onto adaptor type of airfilter setup (intake hose clamp is loose).

Also ECU needs a retune (aftermarket ECU or modified Z32 ECU + Z32 AFM) with those mods.

[l2u4k0assx]

yanay i will let you know! asap

[l2u4k0assx]

ok so i checked the tps and it is set perfect! couldn't get any better! Problem is i have read some guys page saying his would run better set at a lower voltage than recommended. weird

i have checked the o2 as well still get same problem. i need to get a wideband so i know exact numbers.

the 3000rpm part was just saying while i was driving it would bog down like fuel cut and random times. which is leading me to injectors

i do have a consult port coming in so i can hook up to a laptop. Also i have the 3000zx ecu and the z32 maf ready for the nistune. i just want the car to run right before i start dicking with it

[l2u4k0assx]

http://www.facebook.com/video/video.php?v=156087784539119

[hp44incgtr]

i had same problem with my gtr i replace the coil wire loom still had the same problem then i replace the coils with some spit fire boyya problem solve biggest smill on my face .. hope you fix yours good luck.

[l2u4k0assx]

see i have friends that make the ls2 coil conversion and i dont really want to spend the money on that right now but hopefully thats not the issue. my coils tested perfect

[Skym]

ok so i checked the tps and it is set perfect! couldn't get any better! Problem is i have read some guys page saying his would run better set at a lower voltage than recommended. weird

It's easier if have Nistune, as it light's up the idle contact button in Nistune tuning software or Nissan's Consult which does similar. But it is lower than around 0.51V? or something like that which some use. On my cars TPS the idle contact is at 0.44V.

i have checked the o2 as well still get same problem. i need to get a wideband so i know exact numbers.

What's the fuel pressure doing when it does it????

the 3000rpm part was just saying while i was driving it would bog down like fuel cut and random times. which is leading me to injectors

Strange, I would have thought it was the MAF. It's common for injectors to playup when engine has done high km.

i do have a consult port coming in so i can hook up to a laptop.

That's the best way to see what is happening with sensors in realtime. The other is oscillioscope (CAS, o2 sensor, ignition module, etc) multimeter at sensors.