how to: adjusting diff backlash?

[amnash]

Anyone know how to adjust diff backlash?

[amnash]

Anyone know how to check how much diff backlash there is? I know it's loser then spec at the moment. let's say I added a 0.80mm shim, how much back lash would that remove?
I'm just gonna do this and see is the low speed diff clunking/bucking goes away, thoughts?

http://www.trampdrift.co.uk/forum/topic/2475-how-to-shim-a-nissan-r200-diff-200sx-with-pics/

[99_SI]

I do. You need a dial indicator and a service manual. You cant just slap on shims to adjust backlash. Need to measure backlash first and see how thick of a shim you need to bring it back to spec. Also if you are reusing your side bearings you will need more thickness. Less with new bearings.

[99_SI]

They added an extra shim to help lock it up a bit more???? Thats shoe maker right there....sounds like the friction plates were worn out and they didnt do nothing for backlash....

[99_SI]

Bucking happens on turns or straight ahead driving? Check your u joints/half shafts? How do you know that your backlash is out of spec? If it is your side bearings are probably worn out and need to be replaced.

[amnash]

Well my drive shaft is brand new one piece so those joints should be good. It's if I go slow and just kinda go on off the throttle a bit there's a clunking in the rear and picks up momentum to the point where I just take it out of gear and let it chill the hell out

[bobbo]

How are your diff bushings?
If your diff is that far out of adjustment I'm sure it would be noisy.

[amnash]

The diff is out now. Gonna open it tomorrow. Any tricks to checking the bearings? Bobbo it's a r32 gts and there wasn't any bushings it was just bolted to subframe.. And this is definitely the first time the diff was removed the bolt threads looked new still.

[bobbo]

Normall if the bearings are bad you'll have noise. It's out now so you might as well rebuild it. I got all of the required parts from Daryl at Right Drive.
My advise is to have a pro rebuild it for you. If you get it wrong you'll have to start all over again. You may also consider getting the Nismo upgraded clutch pack for your diff.

[Dragon Humper]

There are two things to look at; backlash and mesh pattern. You can adjust them by shimming the carrier side to side and the pinion in and out. Really the backlash should never open up more than .003" over the life of the diff, barring any major failure. Most likely what you are hearing is normal lash (most likely on the wide side) but amplified by your new one peice drive shaft. You never did say if it was steel or alluminum, both will transmit more lash noise than the two piece....steel will be the worst.



Jon.

[amnash]

took the diff apart today, after having a good look at how it all works, and going through the FSM a couple times... the link i posted about adding an extra shim would have no effect on the backlash. so that was irrelevant lol its only to make it lock up easier which im not really going for that at this point, going for a nice smooth modern feeling ride. everything inside looks great, the bearings are nice and smooth with no play, the oil was nice and clear, and no metal filings or fuzz on the drain plug(which was a bitch to get off)..
Jon thats a good point about the one piece, i never considered how having one less Ujoint would amplify slack in the drivetrain, my options were limited when doing the rb25swap anyways. so im not gonna even open the LSD im just gonna get a shop to tighten up the backlash to smallest tolerance and put it back in.

given the overall condition of the diff im gonna start checking other areas near the rear subframe for play. any key spots i should look at to start? axels maybe??

[amnash]

Here's a vid of the inside of the diff https://m.facebook.com/photo.php?v=1...id=20531316728

[99_SI]

No bushings between subframe and diff....hmmm I would start with getting some.


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[amnash]

I think it's normal for hcr32 to have no bushings so I suppose the next link would be subframe bushings. Nissan fast doesn't show bushings and that's searching with my Vin.


The backlash is within spec too. Actually on the tighter side.

[99_SI]

I don't think you're supposed to do it like that. Not at the tip anyway. Usually in the middle of the tooth at a 90deg angle to the drive side of the gear. That's why your measurement is in the tighter side. Tapered roller bearings don't get tighter with wear... Pinion bearing rotating torque is another thing you should check as well as mesh on the gears while you're there...would rec tightening back lash if it's in spec. You don't want any noise or extra wear , do you?


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