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Rear subframe bushings or inserts?

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  • Rear subframe bushings or inserts?

    Hey so im looking to fix a wheel hop condition I am getting when I accelerate hard on my r32. I believe its due to the old subframe/diff bushings. And now I picked up an old s13 subframe for cheap to freshen up. My question is does anyone have any first hand experience with the energy suspension inserts? They don't seem to sell the full bushing anymore for the s13, only the r32 comes up. These r32 bushings will work in the s13 frame will it not? The inserts are considerably cheaper and apparently very simple to install. Ive found some whiteline bushing but not energy suspension for s13. I don't mind paying extra money for a better bushing either. If anyone could shed some light that would be appreciated!

    Oh and Im looking for poly bushings due to the car being a daily driver.

  • #2
    I used the Z32 Energy bushing kit in my R32 GTR and it worked wonderfully. I had the same wheel hop issue and the bushing kit solved it.
    Getting the old bushings out is a bit of a pain. If you go to the end of my build (http://forums.gtrcanada.com/gt-r-pro...obbo%27s+build) you can see how I did it.

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    • #3
      That's great exactly the answer I was looking for, thanks a lot. These no reason it shouldn't work in an s13 subframe? Its gonna be a PITA to change but well worth it!
      Ive read on a forum that in order to use z32 bushings you need to get different nuts because the z32 bushings are a bit longer and you need a smaller nut to grab more of the threads. Did you have this issue?

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      • #4
        I didn't have to change any fasteners. Specifically which bushings were supposed to have the nuts replaced?

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        • #5


          Its hard to tell if its the 2 front or 2 in the rear. But basically he explains it about 1/2" longer than OEM. Its step number 17 on the thread. Let me know what you think.

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          • #6
            So I got went an bought the ES poly bushing set (7-4102) and installed them last weekend. The rear bushings are apparenly a bit longer than the originals. Is this going to be a problem? Can I shorten them?




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            • #7
              it will be somewhat of a handling issue. if the subframe sits further away from the cars body, the roll centre of the suspension has changed, and if your car is lowered this make it even worse.

              we run spl solid bushings on our cars, they come with slotted inserts so you can adjust the subframe distance from the body.

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              • #8
                Alright thanks good to know, would it be a bad idea to trim the bushings a couple mm's so it sits flush? Will the bolts/studs be long enough?
                I went with poly since it will be a daily driver.


                Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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                • #9
                  you can trim it. if the bolt is too long you can always put some washers to compensate.

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                  • #10
                    I think I'll try to trim it. Keep it the same and won't mess with the suspension geometry. Thanks


                    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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                    • #11
                      Good to see some info on this. I'm having wheel hop issues as well on my GTR. Just ordered the whiteline bushings for the subframe and diff ($400, ouch). Looking forward to resolving the wheel hop and hopefully getting rid of a clunk I have in the rear end.

                      Post an update when you've got this all finished and let us know how well it works!

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                      • #12
                        That's the main reason i went with the ES kit. I paid a bit over $100 USD including shipping (which was quick). It was listed for a z32 on the summit website but said 240sx on the box.*
                        I will for sure! Hoping to get the new frame the new s13 subframe in a month or so, ill wait for it to warm up a bit.



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                        • #13
                          I did the same thing on my GTS-t but have yet to drive on it. The 240sx kit is compatible with most areas of the car (Save for the front suspension).

                          I didnt have to trim or cut anything though it all went back into place nicely.
                          Jordie Lewis
                          1993 Skyline Type M

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by Coombsy View Post
                            Good to see some info on this. I'm having wheel hop issues as well on my GTR. Just ordered the whiteline bushings for the subframe and diff ($400, ouch). Looking forward to resolving the wheel hop and hopefully getting rid of a clunk I have in the rear end.

                            Post an update when you've got this all finished and let us know how well it works!
                            Clunk sound can be backlash inside the rear diffhead. Sometimes can be excessive (diffhead requires a rebuild) and sometimes half shaft related (joint on wheel / hub side).

                            If was me I would use Nismo bushes, as they are harder rubber than stock rubber bushes and don't require constant lubing if for suspension arms. If get poly bushes for arms, make sure they have a lubing nipple.
                            RESPONSE MONSTER

                            The most epic signature ever "epic".

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by S13Jordie View Post
                              I did the same thing on my GTS-t but have yet to drive on it. The 240sx kit is compatible with most areas of the car (Save for the front suspension).

                              I didnt have to trim or cut anything though it all went back into place nicely.
                              Did you use the s14 bushing kit? The s13 kit only came with subframe inserts that I found.

                              Originally posted by Skym View Post
                              Clunk sound can be backlash inside the rear diffhead. Sometimes can be excessive (diffhead requires a rebuild) and sometimes half shaft related (joint on wheel / hub side).

                              If was me I would use Nismo bushes, as they are harder rubber than stock rubber bushes and don't require constant lubing if for suspension arms. If get poly bushes for arms, make sure they have a lubing nipple.
                              Hopefully there not to squeaky. I used most of the grease on the bushings. I would have gone with the black bushings in hindsight. I found out these are impregnated with graphite which has a self lubricating property.

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