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Rear subframe bushings or inserts?

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  • #16
    I don't think it's my diff. There isn't any clunking getting on/off throttle, just on most bumps and on hard shifts. I'm fairly certain it's bushings because I can see that they have leaked all over the place.

    Are you replacing your diff bushings as well, or just the rear subframe bushings?

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    • #17
      I bought both. The S13 bushing inserts looked pathetic.
      Jordie Lewis
      1993 Skyline Type M

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      • #18
        Originally posted by Coombsy View Post
        I don't think it's my diff. There isn't any clunking getting on/off throttle, just on most bumps and on hard shifts. I'm fairly certain it's bushings because I can see that they have leaked all over the place.

        Are you replacing your diff bushings as well, or just the rear subframe bushings?
        Only the subframe bushings. Since I went with s13 non hicas subframe I had to use a different 4 bolt diff cover that mounts solid to the frame.



        Yes the inserts look like only a temporary fix without having to drop the frame Jordie.

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        • #19
          Originally posted by Kevin_GTS View Post
          Hopefully there not to squeaky. I used most of the grease on the bushings. I would have gone with the black bushings in hindsight. I found out these are impregnated with graphite which has a self lubricating property.
          When I had poly bushes on the front upper arms I found out they can rip apart on both sides without proper lubing / constant lubing. Same applies to rear arms.
          RESPONSE MONSTER

          The most epic signature ever "epic".

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          • #20
            Originally posted by Skym View Post
            When I had poly bushes on the front upper arms I found out they can rip apart on both sides without proper lubing / constant lubing. Same applies to rear arms.
            I will keep that in mind thanks! Would that be possible from not tightening the bushings up in the "loaded" position and getting twisted/torqued up?

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            • #21
              Originally posted by Kevin_GTS View Post
              I will keep that in mind thanks! Would that be possible from not tightening the bushings up in the "loaded" position and getting twisted/torqued up?
              The rod / bolt going through the middle of bush locked on the metal inserts x2 (one metal insert on each side of bush from memory) in the inner part of the bush due to lack of lubing and those metal inserts turned inside the bush thus ripped the bush apart.

              Why the bush ripped apart and the metal inserts didn't just spin inside the bush is the bush material is mould formed around the metal inserts x2 . Basically the bush material / poly part sticks to the metal inserts x2. Some suspension specialist's make their own bushes (rubber or poly) with custom metal inserts, custom mould, custom mix, etc.

              From what I understand, the upper arms are checked / tightened when it's aligned by lifting rear of car, so the upper arms are loaded (simulating braking position) and the front is lifted to do the rear under acceleration. My car was aligned this way, so I believe it was checked afterwards. Just I believe lack of lubing was the cause of the failure hence why some bush manufacturers install lubing nipples.
              RESPONSE MONSTER

              The most epic signature ever "epic".

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              • #22
                Thanks for making that clear, definitely important to keep them lubed. I never heard about tightening the bushings that way but sounds interesting

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