Will 15" fit on a Skyline??

[NismoS-tune]

Caliper Weight (loaded caliper): Rear (4 piston)
ROTORA: 9.7 lbs / STOCK:17.5 lbs.
Oversize Disc Weight:
ROTORA: 18.6 lbs. / STOCK: 20 lbs.
Oversize Disc Dimension:
ROTORA: 330mm x 32mm / STOCK: 296mm x 32mm

A total weight savings of 9 lbs. per side! And that's just the rears.

Less unsprung weight too.

[johnnyjohnny]

Frankiman - Thank you for pointing out this thread. No where in this explanation does it say "bigger is always better". As I've said before (and in the intercoolers thread as well), if performance is your goal, people should be choosing the most appropriate size/volume/rated/etc. component. 'Most appropriate' does not by definition equate to biggest/most expensive'.

[johnnyjohnny]

There's more internet heroes that "talk" about big brakes being a waste over stock than owners that know better. I have big brakes with cross drilled rotors and I assure you I'd outgun a stock setup over and over (in the 60-0), even if the stock setup has hawk pads and "non drilled rotors".

either way, these brakes are badass. I should be doing what you do for a living so I can afford this kinda stuff.

There are probably even more "internet heroes" spouting bad advice, too. No where did I say bigger wasn't better than stock in every case. I wasn't putting down Charles' choice of rotors. Read the thread again...I was refutting the "bigger is always better" claim. People seem to frequently over-generalize and therefore provide bad advice to those looking for information.

[C-unit]

Thanks for the info and input. Good to see some knowledgeable guys chip in the correct info.


Like, everyone mention, BBK does NOT decrease your stopping power dramatically. All it does is to stop brake fade after 20-30lap and hopefully it'll preform the same as the first lap.

These brake are also very light for it size. They are pretty much the same weight as the stock one as well. There maybe more rotational mass but I think I can live with that.

Darryl: you should get the wheels brand new. They are not very pricey compare to work meister! I would say they are one of the cheaper cool looking wheels out there.

Forgot to add. These will not be my track wheels. They are just daily grocery go to school wheels. They are too heavy n big for track...





PS* Who on earth will buy a set of BBK and have costco tire on their car so they can lock up their wheels?? I am just curious. AND FXXk!! I NEED MY CAR TO BE DONE SOON!!!

[falcon]

No, I'm not referring to an article about an RSX - it's basic theory in the racing community. If Charles has done his homework and it's suitable for his particular application, then that's fine. I just have a problem with people saying "bigger is always better" - it's not, and it's bad advice.

And I respectfully disagree with you - increasing unsprung weight and rotational mass does impact a time attack run. Not as much than say road circuit racing or autocross, but the theory is still the same and applies in this use case.

Increased unsprung weight will still have the same effect on the suspension, and therefore road holding capability, on a time attack car than on an enduro, road circuit or autocross car. The suspension will be more susceptible to road shock, and will not be able to reach equilibrium as fast, with all other factors being equal.

An increase in rotational mass will still require more energy to accelerate its mass and overcome rotational inertia, and more energy to overcome its rotational intertia and deccelerate its mass. Add to this, as you spread the mass out over an increased diameter (larger rotors, larger rim diameter, etc.), you increase the moment of inertia. The higher the MoI, the more torque you need to accelerate it. In any kind of ciruit racing where you have throttle transitions (turns, traffic, etc.), you need to keep these factors under control.

Finally someone else who knows what they're talking about.


But Charles... they are still ballin' and you are my hero. My guess is this is not going to be a full blown race car so the above explanation doesn't really apply... even though it is right.

[C-unit]

^ def not a full blown race car. It is just my going to be a "try every motorsport how charles want it to be" vehicle.

Edit: I mean I wouldn't really consider these BBK as they are same size as most new performance vehicle. They are similar size as 997 turbo and hack Nismo Z-tune runs similar set up.

[M13]

epic.

[Oakville]

this threads a good read. sick bbk too, biggest ive ever seen!

[Skym]

Brakes won't feel the same on lap one as on lap 30, as brakepads wearout. A RB30DET powered rwd R32 racecar can go through 2 sets or so of brakepads in I think was a 6 hour endurance race on a tight circuit. Weight is one of the area's that helps with brakepad, rotor longevity.

Upgraded brakes, slicks on a Group-A R32GTR are not that much better than a stock GTR brakes, road tyres when cold, as shown in this videoclip (braking from 160km/h) -

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AwbbA3INlgA

But when upgraded brakes, slicks are up to temperature and braking from high speed lap after lap, that's where the difference is noticed.

If you want brakes that last a whole race without fading, carbon brake rotors, etc are the best.

Also need ducting to rotors to keep rotor temperature down (avoid high temps that crack rotors) to around where the temperature that brake pads are rated to and keep brake fluid temperature down below boiling point (above boiling point causes bubbles to form in brake fluid and result's in sponngy pedal and brake fade) that is affected by brakepad temperature. So basically rotor temperature affects brake pad temperature that affects brake fluid temperature. These are the area's that make brakes fade. Bigger rotors help to shed the heat better thus lower rotor temperature.

Look at Gibson Group-A R32GTR's brake ducting to get an idea how to do the brake ducting on a R32 GTR -

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/post-a195332-

Can buy similar 600 degree silicon brake ducting here -

http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/product/Thermoid_Silicone_Air_Ducting/Thermoid_High_Temp_Ducting2

Brake ducting seems to be overlooked when looking to increase braking performance and reduce or eliminate (depends on how effective the brake ducting is) brake fade.

Some good rotors are DBA, as they have different temperature paint on I think was side of rotors to show how hot the rotor is getting.

At least run some Dunlop or Bridegstone semislicks on the road.

[Daryl @ RightDrive]

Daryl: you should get the wheels brand new. They are not very pricey compare to work meister! I would say they are one of the cheaper cool looking wheels out there.

Yea, they are pretty cheap. I just went with another set of wheels though