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Cost of Tracking a Car?

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  • #16
    Lot's of good advice! If you keep boost under 12 psi or so, you'll be fine with ceramic turbos. They hate high boost in combination with detonation, just like the rest of your engine. If you want to maximize your fun to dollar ratio, keep boost modest! I think the annual cost or racing is more or less equal to the following formula.

    $=K*(Boost-6)³ + N*C
    where:
    K is price of an engine rebuild
    N is the number of track events
    C is fuel, tires, brakes fluids and minor repairs per track day.

    I think your question was originally about 'C', which is a pretty small number beside 'K'.

    For me, I think 'C' is between $100 and $300 depending on the track and the duration of competition.

    Start with autocross where speeds and consequence of error are small. Hook up with a club that includes new driver training as one of their 'things they like to do'.

    Spend some time between now and then reading... Ross Bentley's Speed Secrets are great. Having said that, there's no substitute for actually getting out there to provide a context for understanding what you read.

    +1 for making brakes your first priority. When you need to slow down, nothing else matters! I use EBC Red Stuff pads on recommendation from Ezzie (who's been racing longer than most of most of us have been alive!) and couldn't be happier. They work fine on the street as well, and when used in conjunction with good race fluid they stop a GTR with more authority than the average bear has ever experienced. Feel and durability will be improved with big brake packages, but OEM rotors/calipers with good pads and fluid are pretty darn effective.

    Have fun!

    Dan
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    The Beaumont Connection

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    • #17
      From what I can remember, someone on SAU posted the braking distances of an upgraded bigger rotor brake package and stock upgraded brake package. The stopping distance were nearly the same. The big brake package comes into it's own after alot of high speed stops, where there is no brake fade.

      The way some work it out, is if car has 20% power above stock, has to be able to do 2 x 0-100km/h stops without brake fade. Every 10% increase in hp from engine, car needs to be able to stop 1x. So say 50% = 5 times from 100km/h without brake fade.

      Also weight of car plays a role in brakepad wear. A heavy rwd RB30 powered R32 can go through 2x sets of brakepads in a endurance race. A light 600kg or so racecar can last a whole season with 1x set of brake pads.

      A good idea is to strip car of excess weight before a trackday. For example passenger, rear seats, space saver spare wheel (I think is around 15kg), etc.
      RESPONSE MONSTER

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