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Making BNR32 race ready?

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  • #16
    Congratulations on your decision to embark on the slippery slope that is called racing! I read your posts but I am still unclear what form of racing you are planning to participate in. Is it Vintage, Drag, Drifting, Solo 1, Solo 2, or ARCA Road Racing?
    Regardless, there are a few guidelines that should be followed when approaching any form of motorsport for the first time. They are, in order of execution:
    1) Safety
    2) Driver Education
    3) Car Performance Upgrades
    4) Driver Improvement
    Notice that the first item is safety and NOT car modifications. This area includes things like a roll cage, 5 or 6 point harness, fire supression, and driver safety wares.
    The next item is driver education training. No need for high performance mods when one is first starting to learn the ropes on a track.
    Third is the car upgrades necessary to keep it reliable and useable on the track. First should be a dedicated set of high performance racing brake pads and brake fluid. Steel brake hoses are nice as well as ducting. As you get faster, you can decide if different brake discs and calipers are necessary (after you upgrade to the really sticky tires, of course).
    Oil temperature management is also recommended. Then, you can focus on upgrading tires and suspension.
    At this stage, one might be tempted to upgrade power output. Before one does that, additional driver coaching usually provides more improvement in lap times at far less monetary expenditure than any amount spent on power enhancement. Power upgrades should always be the last item when the driver is confident he or she has taken the car to it's absolute potential and the only item left for gaining those last few seconds (or tenths of seconds) is in improving the car itself and not the driver.
    The items discussed in this thread pertaining to keeping the car reliable are well regarded and adviseable.
    Good luck!

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    • #17
      I second FASTBMW's comments. Coming from the Porsche 944 world, which has a very strong grassroots racing background, safety, driver education and skills improvement, and basic car handling modifications are what will make you faster on the track (I'm assuming you mean circuit or autocross when you say you want to go racing). I have seen many "low-powered" cars beat much more powerful cars on the track because the latter car's owners have focussed their attention and money on upping HP.

      Heed the immortal words of Pirelli - Power is nothing without control. That includes the driver, too! It's so funny, and pathetic, to see some guy at the track spouting off about all his engine mods, then watching him get passed by everyone else, then complaining that he's "still sorting out the tune".

      Just because you can drive a car on the street, does not mean you can drive the car fast around a track. It's a totally different experience, requiring different skills. An extra 100hp WILL NOT help you - it's more likely to result in you wrecking your car, or worse, someone elses. Enroll in some High Performance Driver's Ed courses, EVERY year. You WILL learn new skills, and improve your existing ones each time you're out on the track. And this is the fastest and most productive way to get faster on the track.

      One item I might also consider - add lightness. Skylines are not the lightest cars around, and as such, can benefit from a much-needed diet. Get your car corner weighted as a baseline, then start removing items you don't need. Weigh the individual items you remove, and repeat the corner weighting. Focus on reducing unsprung weight, heavy items that unbalance the car (like a/c components), and don't underestimate the weight savings of removing large numbers of lightweight things (like carpet underpad, trim, metal brackets, etc.). When buying aftermarket parts, look for lightweight versions if they can be found. Don't skimp on safety, though. A big no-no = alloy wheel lug nuts. They me help to reduce unsprung weight, but they are not as strong as steel (and most racing rule books don't allow them). Losing a wheel will reduce unsprung weight as well, but you won't be going fast around the track for other reasons.
      '93 R33 Gts25T Inked Art Car - SOLD

      See the Sharpie makeover, and other inked cars from around the world
      at www.inkedartcars.com

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      • #18
        Thanks for that info guys. I will be doing the solo 1 sprint series in Calgary. I'll focus on the reliability stuff before performance. Radiator, Brakes, oil temperature. Get my suspension all tightened up. And do an alignment, i would have to anyway. I'll probaby take out my ac, I wast sure if I should, but I had to drain it to do the engine swap. I'm not sure what to get for brakes, any reccomendations? I know if I start hanging calipers, I will have to change other components. Master, booster,etc. I would like to get rid of abs too. And maybe get a hicas delete bar like I had on my other skyline. Maybe hicas delete. Imot sure what benefits that will serve. I had taken it off other one for drifting. But this car will be only used for time attack style stuff. And street.
        GTRC-OG

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        • #19
          Solo 1 will be fun! HICAS delete is frequently done. It's not absolutely necessary but many drivers feel more comfortable with it off.
          A good set of brake pads will work wonders for the brakes. After having tried a few different types, I have been satisfied with some custom compound pads supplied by a friend in the US. They are AMAZING in initial bite and I cannot get them to fade, EVER. They are long lasting but can be a little hard on rotors, although I find I crack my rotors with any and all types of pads. Fronts are in the $300 USD range if I remember correctly.Rears are $280 (ish). Replace them as a set front and rear. I will be able to have a set for you after mid April as I will be going down there in early April. My personal opinion is to avoid drilled rotors at all costs. Slotted are OK.
          Oil temperature will not be such a problem in 4 laps, especially when you are starting out. You could wait on that and do it later in the season. An aluminum rad is a good idea since the 20 year old plastic in the rad will crack and leaving coolant on the racing surface is uncool.
          Keep us posted as to what mods you do and how your progress is throughout the season!

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          • #20
            Forgot to mention: there will be a two day driving school in Spokane, Washington on April 3+4. The track is similar to Calgary and would be a way to get some instruction on the track before the season gets underway. That is the same day as Solo 1 registration in Calgary, so you would need to send someone to register for you while you are away.

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            • #21
              i think you cen register other days, ill email to confirm. but....that could be fun. is there any more information you have on this driving school?? with all the details?
              GTRC-OG

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              • #22
                The Spokane Info is here: http://www.iebmw.org/driving_schools.html

                More info here about it all with FAQs:



                To learn more about the Spokane school and to register for the school, go here:
                BMW CCA - Inland Empire Chapter on Saturday, April 3, 2010 - Sunday, April 4, 2010 at Spokane County Raceway, Spokane, WA - Join the best driving instructors in the Northwest at Spokane County Raceway and improve your driving skills. Our driving schools match each student to an instructor to provide one-on-one on-track gu...


                The Calgary BMW club school is on May 28 &29. You could get some additional track time and experienced instruction specific to Race City before your first competition in June. Watch for the opening of registration for this school on: www.Karelo.com

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                • #23
                  Everything Frankiman said is very good info.

                  Car wise, it can't be overstated how important that all your suspension bushings and balljoints need to be in top notch shape. Tie rod ends do take a beating.

                  Nismo suspension links are not adjustable and use OEM geometery(they don't change your camber) they just use heavier duty bushings.

                  Once again, brakes a hugely important

                  Not just any high temp brake fluid will do. Use the ones Frankiman suggested. Rallysport.ca sells the Motul stuff and they are located in Calgary.

                  Oil Cooler is super important. RB26 runs very hot. Oil temps will skyrocket in no time with out one.

                  Lots of what I am saying is redundant but worth saying again for emphasis.

                  Have fun with your new addiction.
                  1989 Skyline GTR

                  "Want to Race? Save it for the track!"
                  www.victoriamotorsports.ca

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                  • #24
                    ill try. i think ive foudn the cheapest brake lines i'll get. i found nismos for $255.
                    GTRC-OG

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                    • #25
                      Make your own, it's not hard. I built brake lines for 9 formula cars without any issues.
                      I'll be making all of my brake/clutch lines for my own formula car.

                      I can get -3 Aeroquip for like $3/ft, so figure you need max 8ft of brake line, that's $24 bucks in braided lines plus whatever fittings you need (5 bucks a piece?).

                      $244 for brake lines is crazy... but like I said I don't mind making my own.
                      Race. Win. Live.

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                      • #26
                        but they have to withstand like, 1000 pounds if line pressure or more
                        GTRC-OG

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                        • #27
                          Yeah, if you put them together properly there's nothing wrong with that.
                          Hell even if you take all the bits to a hydraulic shop they will assemble for you and it will still be under $100.
                          Race. Win. Live.

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                          • #28
                            yeah, i had mine fully custom made (all 4) locally, for 157$

                            and then i had them make me a custom SS braided clutch line from my old one.. for 32$ (labor, parts, and 5$ shipping)
                            sigpic

                            [links to all chapters in first post]

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                            • #29
                              And really, they aren't that big of a deal to put together... I did what... 45 lines for cars seeing probably 5-600psi of pressure and I never had one leak.
                              Race. Win. Live.

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                              • #30
                                Originally posted by CanadianGTR View Post
                                And really, they aren't that big of a deal to put together... I did what... 45 lines for cars seeing probably 5-600psi of pressure and I never had one leak.
                                thats nothing for brake line on big cars

                                probly rated to 40,000psi
                                sigpic

                                [links to all chapters in first post]

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