Originally posted by derk
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Making BNR32 race ready?
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Black 1991 GTR. Serious garage stand mantle/parts car.
Black 1990 Pulsar GTiR. Sold
Silver 1989 GTR. Sold
Black 2010 Subaru WRX. Weekend warrior. Sold.
Black 2013 F-150 FX4 ecoboost. Daily driver.
White 2012 Ford Explorer Limited. Family wagon.
Sorry for my offensive comments, I r socially retard.
start by having A ROLLING GTR then we talk u ******* mofo funzy little *****
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i thought OP was trying to make his car race ready?
if hes racing.. he should be using RBF600/660, or Castrol SRF etc. and should probably be flushed after a track day of hard use.
if hes worried about the cost of brake fluid... he shouldnt be looking to race it. lol
5.1 is great for a DD though
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Rbf600 and 660 are dot 4. Find for abs systems and most vehicles. You get into trouble when you use synthetic (dot5) in and and regular systems. It will be fine.
And I didn't say anything about the cost? Not too worried about it. I will buy things as I need them. Right now I need to focus on things I need TO race. Not to make me faster or whatever. Brakes. Helmet. Tires later on.GTRC-OG
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AMS had brake lines on sale, $68 + shipping. Might be worth looking into. $200+ is way over priced...
AMS Brake linesOriginally posted by Z-TunedNext question is: should I stroke it??Originally posted by WingnutYes, but leave the engine alone.
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Ams uses shitty, unfit hardware, I will NOT buy those lines. 2 of 4 tension rod studs broke/ stripped off when torquing to only 80 ft lbs. They should handle DOUBLE that. I ended up usig oem ones. I do not trust ams stuff. That's what you get for the price though, tight? Suspension parts are not the place to cheap out.GTRC-OG
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some thing i find that is often over looked is people will put in huge rads and huge inter coolers but not properly flow air threw them as most of it will just go around.
building shrouds that close off the bumper opening to the inter-cooler / rad . and also the space between the IC and rad can help cooling experientially. same goes for oil coolers and trans coolers. alos proper break ducting will also help lots. but have to make sure you follow the regs on tube size and vent size and so on.
as for pad if you want real track serious pads look at hawk DTC-60 race pads. but only look at them if your disc are some what disposable/ cheap to replace. no real need for slotted or cross drilled. brembo blanks are your best bet IMO.
After seeing at least 7 turbo nissans blow up here in Edmonton dude to over heating in 10 min track sessions . i would say dont cheap out on it at all and do it proper. best of luck !
Joel m.
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Well the engine took a poopie haha. about a month ago. i pulled it out and sent it away to get it rebuild nice and solid. as for things that have to do with this thread... i have purchased:
rbf600 brake fluid
hawk hp+ pads(already have had problems with them, i have gotten bad brake fade, maybe becuase i didnt replace rotors??)
Still need for then engine is ready:
oil cooler setup
radiator
as well as..
tires
and more that i cant remember!GTRC-OG
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