Project Mu; Quality rotor?

[cobrAA]

in the end, my problem wasn't the rotors themselves, but the fact they were super glazed, and my brake bias is too much to the rear

but the point is;
do you NEED bigger PMU or AMS or whatever high price rotors?, do you really need it?
than i would seriously suggest simply getting a set of OEM rotors for cheaper, and spend the money you are saving elsewhere, maybe suspension upgrades? better tires?
go get some swaybars and call it a day!

At the end ? do I really need 2 cars ? Do I really need to upgrade the turbo? etc. No, but it's fun :P

Maybe you needed to break-in the rotors, is it what your telling me?

Like I said, I have 5k kms old OEM rotor at 4 corners.Pristine condition but I know they are not the best thing for any track use and while I won't do track this year, I would like to '' prepare myself'' haha. Same goes for my future rebuilt; Motor isn't blown, but I would hate to blow it on a drag run, look like a little teenager on the drag, call a towing etc etc. Prevention is my key word here.

And, well... 324mm rotors look nicier than OEM 296 mm rotors

[nelsonmxmarc]

my problem wasn't the rotors themselves, but the fact they were super glazed

Glazing isn't always due to pad material per se. Heat saturation causes glazing; so either you were dragging the brakes or braking really hard, really early because the pads we're teh sux, or you weren't sufficiently cooling your rotors..

I wouldn't point my finger at the rotors though.. I've been scoping out the UK boards and there's nothing but good graces on the AMS brake systems.. Not to mention, my stock rotors lasted the day! Only my pads glazed, but after a good sanding and cleaning, they're like new .. And effectively, that is what should happen. Pad material should give way before the rotors IMO. The melting point of the typical cast iron rotor is ~1200c at which point you'll see obvious glazing.

Another thing to note; if your brake bias is so far back, then why are your front rotors glazed? Your rears didn't seem bad at all?

I think your issue may be in the brake master setup (if i'm not mistaken, vpsec 33 bore is larger than 32gtr, more fluid displaced with less pedal travel).. not necessarily brake rotors :P

[frankiman]

rotors glazing is when you don't brake hard enough

the way brakes work, is by transfering some of the pad's material onto the rotor, than the pad and rotor stick to each other (stiction)

then when the pads aren't in their operating temperature (low temp), theres only friction between the pad and rotor, which causes the rotor surface to become extremely slick and slippery (looks like a mirror) and doesn't allow the pad's material to transfer onto the rotor

think about it, if there was only friction, your rotors wouldn't last a month,
and with every heat cycle, more and more of the pad's material is beeing transfered, hence why they seem to "melt"

all that is because when i drive on the street, i tend to brake very very lightly on long distances, instead of braking hard on a shorter distance, this causes the pads to always stay too cool

[nelsonmxmarc]

rotors glazing is when you don't brake hard enough

Mmm.. Not really..

Basically your pads weren't properly bedded prior to the track day. Like you said, material transfer between the pad and the disc is NECESSARY for proper bed in and brake function. However, in your case, there was no material transfer and so you hammered the brakes at the track causing abrasion rather than any adherence with the added element of high heat. Typical causation of glazed rotors.

So, in reality, heat and improper pad bedding will cause glazing.

all that is because when i drive on the street, i tend to brake very very lightly on long distances, instead of braking hard on a shorter distance, this causes the pads to always stay too cool

Cool yes, but irrelevant. Once the pads are properly bedded, the material transfer shouldn't fluctuate, and slow, steady and long brake distances should influence glazing. Its the primary bed in procedure that will dictate any future brake outcome.

[TW]

*Gets popcorn*

[frankiman]

Cool yes, but irrelevant. Once the pads are properly bedded, the material transfer shouldn't fluctuate, and slow, steady and long brake distances should influence glazing. Its the primary bed in procedure that will dictate any future brake outcome.

you might be right, i remember properly bedding in my last set of HP+ with my old BNR32 setup, but completely forgot to do it with this setup
a little sand paper and a new proper bed-in procedure should take care of any of my problems

lol@tyler

[nelsonmxmarc]

Tyler if you leave class to get popcorn, can you get me some too?

I'd look into getting them turned on a lathe.. I know it sucks balls cuz they're brand new but sand paper might not be abrasive enough to completely clean up the glazed surface, unless of course they're not THAT bad. 15$ each at the autoparts!

CobrAA

I don't mind paying 500$ for rotors. I know they will last longer than my brake pads.

So do it. Just be careful with your bed in procedure
Project MU have proven their quality on cars for years and have always been highly regarded. Phastwon made a good point, almunium hats, cast iron rotors (typical..).. good heat disapation and baller. I wouldn't hesitate if i had the money to toss into brakes!

[TW]

Looking at teal hats behind my wheels would make me cringe though

[cobrAA]

*Gets popcorn*

I have the bbq spice flavor :P

[cobrAA]

Only problem however. where can I get the custom fitting to fit 324 with oem bnr32 caliper ? I don't think AMS sell them.

[Hyrev]

Endless

[nelsonmxmarc]

That is an epic photo

[cobrAA]

Would it be wrong if I paint the ams in teal loll?

[nelsonmxmarc]

Lol no. But if you're going to go out of your way to even FIND teal paint that withstands that kind of heat, you might as well paint it the colour you WANT :P

[cobrAA]

Lol no. But if you're going to go out of your way to even FIND teal paint that withstands that kind of heat, you might as well paint it the colour you WANT :P

powdercoat?