17's or 18's for track use

[sb119]

I'm planning to track my R33 GTR as much as possible this summer, problem is the nearest track is a 3 hour drive away. I've decided my best bet is to use my Work XD9's (heavy af, 18x10) with current tires (I think Potenzas) for daily driving then get a dedicated set of wheels and tires to swap on at the track. I'm currently looking at either 18x9.5 or 17x9.5

My fallback plan would be to just get some star specs and run them on the Works as the only set but I'd really like to have a track only set with r888's or slicks

I'm wondering what you use at the track? The way I see it theres pros and cons to both. Wheels and tires are a little bit cheaper with 17's. Probably slightly lighter too. 18's will have a lower aspect ratio tire (265/35/18 vs 265/40-45/17) so will have a stiffer sidewall which would be ideal for track days. Also with an 18 I could change tires between my 2 sets of wheels if I ever needed to.

Suggestions, or anything else I should consider?

[gtrjon]

the price difference from 17s to 18s would sell me on the 17s alone. also running slicks on a stock oiling system and a stock gearbox is not going to end well.

[sb119]

the price difference from 17s to 18s would sell me on the 17s alone. also running slicks on a stock oiling system and a stock gearbox is not going to end well.

Definitely don't have a stock oiling system and won't be launching the car so I think the power of my rb26 with a Borg Warner efr 8374 will be more detrimental to the life of my gearbox (3rd gear) than slicks will. But thanks for the concern.

[bobbo]

17s. Weight, value, easier to run lower diameter for better/lower gearing IMO. That's why I went back to a 17.
Also for track use you really should have more sidewall.

[collector240sx]

As said above I would also recommend 17s, for the same reason stated above.

The only reason I would suggest going to 18s, is if you have massive brake that won't clear the 17' wheel.

[Fred-R]

I'm planning to track my R33 GTR as much as possible this summer, problem is the nearest track is a 3 hour drive away. I've decided my best bet is to use my Work XD9's (heavy af, 18x10) with current tires (I think Potenzas) for daily driving then get a dedicated set of wheels and tires to swap on at the track. I'm currently looking at either 18x9.5 or 17x9.5

My fallback plan would be to just get some star specs and run them on the Works as the only set but I'd really like to have a track only set with r888's or slicks

I'm wondering what you use at the track? The way I see it theres pros and cons to both. Wheels and tires are a little bit cheaper with 17's. Probably slightly lighter too. 18's will have a lower aspect ratio tire (265/35/18 vs 265/40-45/17) so will have a stiffer sidewall which would be ideal for track days. Also with an 18 I could change tires between my 2 sets of wheels if I ever needed to.

Suggestions, or anything else I should consider?

I was also asking myself this question but I already have chosen the 17s for track and 18s for street. The thing I'm still asking myself is should I go slick for the track...

the price difference from 17s to 18s would sell me on the 17s alone. also running slicks on a stock oiling system and a stock gearbox is not going to end well.

What dyou mean by stock oiling system? stock pump? 'cause I've a nismo one and oil cooler: is it enough? I can't afford a dry sump for the moment but I won't launch the car neither....

[NismoS-tune]

I doubt he has a stock oil system but has a real built car if he's running an 8374. That's like saying, he has a huge turbo and nothing to support it properly!

+1 for 17x9.5 unless he upgraded his brakes from the poopy weak stock brakes and 18's are required to clear the brakes.

As for gearbox, I have a spare R33 gearbox for you when that big 700hp turbo kills it!

[SlidingSideways]

I use 18's for the track but that's cuz I'm poor do I daily on the same wheels too

[gtrjon]

I was also asking myself this question but I already have chosen the 17s for track and 18s for street. The thing I'm still asking myself is should I go slick for the track...



What dyou mean by stock oiling system? stock pump? 'cause I've a nismo one and oil cooler: is it enough? I can't afford a dry sump for the moment but I won't launch the car neither....

it was more for if you want to run slicks on a track you will experience high lateral g forces and with a stock oiling system (mainly the baffling affected) the sloshing will cause starvation.

[sb119]

Also for track use you really should have more sidewall.

Why is that? I was under the impression that smaller/stiffer sidewall resulted in less tire roll/flexing in corners

[sb119]

As for gearbox, I have a spare R33 gearbox for you when that big 700hp turbo kills it!

Thanks but I'm planning to go with an OS Giken 1-3 when it grenades

[Fred-R]

it was more for if you want to run slicks on a track you will experience high lateral g forces and with a stock oiling system (mainly the baffling affected) the sloshing will cause starvation.

ok ok, i already have a baffled and extended sump. thanks for the info!

[bobbo]

Also be prepaired for more suspension maintenance and bearing replacement. Slicks put MUCH more abuse on these components. So I've been told.

[Skym]

From what I understand, hub bearings fail if run too much camber with wide tyres (happens when lower car too much).

1.) You need suspension, suspension arms to match slicks.

2.) You will get higher lateral G's when cornering with slicks which can uncover pickup on high G corner (I think was around 1.2-1.4G and 1.2G is common under braking, cornering with slicks). Accusump can help with this. Ideal would be a dry sump setup.

3.) Stock R33 17 inch rims are better (lighter) with stock size sidewall on tyres (overall diameter which is tyres thicknesss on both sides, rim diameter), as speedo cable, dash is calibrated to run that size tyre and speedo to road speed won't be out.

If change overall wheel diameter, speedo cable needs to be modified / calibrated to suit with new wheel on gearbox side (from I think was a Nissan Navara?, Nissan Pathfinder? or a Nissan that has bigger overall diameter with wheels).

[frankiman]

the question that no one seems to ask is ;

do you really need slicks?

i mean, how much track experience do you have, have you already maxed-out the car's potential?
you could simply run a set of sticky max performance tires (star spec ; ecsta xs ; ad08 ; re01r ; azenis ; nt05 ; rs3) all the time

i'm going to take myself as an example here,
i've always run max perf tires on the car, my daily tires, saves me the hassles of buying another set and changing them at the track
performance? well i've pretty much learned the very limit of my car in the past 2 years, maxing out its potential, and guess what, i rank in the top "street" drivers while beating half the "race tire" field at local time attack events
wear? well i've done 2 summers or about 18,000km with about 14 track days, and my Dunlop StarSpec are still good for at least another 3,000km

so again i ask (because i don't know) how much track do you do, at which level are you, and do you really need slicks?

now, if by "track" you meant "auto-cross" or "auto-slalom", then forget about what i've said and run massive slicks because thats what you need for those types of competition