F/S RB crank collars, 1.2mm orifice, -10an drain fitting, RB30's and more!!!!

[jdms13rhd]

FOR SALE
-RB Crank Collars (oil pump drive, crank gear, snout) fits RB20. RB25, RB26, RB30. $200 shipped in Canada and the US.
-1.2 mm Oil Orifice (cylinder head oil feed hole) Smaller than Tomei 1.5mm oil orifice. $35 shipped in Canada and the US
--10AN RB-Head Oil Drain Fitting (cylinder head vent/drain fitting, head to sump drain -10AN). Fits all RB twin cam head welsh plugs. $65 shipped in canada or the US
-RB30 short block (RB30E, RB30DET, Holden, Nissan) $1000 firm for a good condition short block. Included: (block, crank, rods, pistons all oe assembled) weight is 240lbs . Any shipping quotes out of my area will require yourself to find your own quote. Give an extra 20 lbs for packaging weight approx. use these dimensions. Length: 35" Width: 22" Height: 22". I have to build a custom pallet so the engine can be picked with a forklift while keeping size and weight down. With the efforts involved in the pallet I will need an extra $30 for cost of material and a tiny amount for my time involved. Drop-offs out of my area or to the shippers may cost extra. Ask to inquire on all shipping arrangements.

International shipping available. Ask me for a quote.



Crank Collar Info:
-Made from 4140 High Tensile Steel
-.001 Inch clearance each side
-suited for .002 inch ID crush.
-Full Drive
-Fits OEM, N1 pumps perfectly!

Install info:
To install any crank collar, you must remove your crank shaft, take it to a machinist and have them remove the original drive on your crank and press on the new collar. There is no way getting around this. There is no easy fix to this item. Example: You cannot install any aftermarket collar with the crank still inside the block.

I get my machinist to use a 8/32 inch set screw on one side to have the insurance of any slippage, tho with a .002 inch crush and loctite ( http://www.loctiteproducts.com/products.shtml ) you shouldn't be slipping unless there is resistance in the rotation assy of your oil pump. With that being said, you really don't need to install a set screw (in my opinion), but its your call. The approx cost to install the collar is $40 and another $40 for the 8/32 set screw install. ANY machinist can do this. Its a simple job! These prices are what I pay my machinist to do the install for me. I suggest you use above prices for a price guideline.
(My collars have one 8/32" hole drilled. This is for you to use if you decide to get your machinist to drill and tap the set screw into your crank).

Crank collar Info:
I have been messing around with RB's since 2005. The single biggest problem(s) with the RB engine are the oil drive issue and failure of oil pump. The problem with ALL OEM cranks (R32 (and v-spec), R33 and r34) and the aftermarket Jun collars is that the clearance is excessive! They all measure .006" inch each side with a total of .012" inch. This means that if you are running any of the above, you may want to pay attention to the dynamic between the cranks and aftermarket collars in comparison to my collars.
The only thing that has been fixed with 32 v-spec and newer Nissan OEM crank shafts and the Jun collar is the width of the flat. Tho rendered useless (in my opinion) with the neglection to the excessive clearance between the drive and pump gear. If you ever take apart an RB engine with said cranks and collars you will see that the contact patch between the oil drive on the crank and the inner oil pump gear itself only has an approx 3/16" inch contact wear. With that excessive clearance your crank will be slamming the oil pump causing excessive stress on the inner gear of your oil pump. That is one reason why everyone will tell you that rev limiter or high RPM on a RB is bad..... Because the crank literally is slamming inside the oil pump. With my collars, I designed them to have proper clearance so there is no slamming AT ALL! The oil pump slips over these tight clearance collars but with a proper clearance of .001" inch each side, .002" total.
.012" Total clearance in unacceptable imo!!! ANYONE can see this with any Nissan crank. Just google search for pictures of RB cranks and pumps and study the cause of the issues that we have all seen. I will give you a select picture example to conclude my strong opinion that the pump and drive need to have an appropriate clearance taken into account.
Here are some things I get a lot of PM's about and I would like to get out as much info out on this subject as possible to keep everyone thinking on the same level:
Question 1: If the clearances are so tight, couldn't that cause the pump to crack from the metal expansion? Answer is simply, No. The easiest example I can tell you so most people can understand is to relate it to bearing clearances. Nissan RB26 std bearing clearance is .038mm>0.0015" inch approx. If the heat expansion doesn't seize your crank solid to the block when it reaches operational temperature, then the crank drive will not expand to the point of causing damage to your oil pump.
Question 2: I see other people in Austraila and other places selling the same crank collar for cheaper. Why is this? Answer... Well let me explain: As far as I know I am the only person that is selling RB crank collars that clearly describes the clearance issue. Most people have no idea of this problem. Lots of these sellers simply work or know a machinist that can simply make this item. Many of these are a direct copy of the Jun collar (which has excessive clearance). I DO NOT DO ALL THIS to make money! I do this because there is a problem that has not been addressed. I build my own engines and I have smashed oil pumps on these "full drive" cranks and collars before. I NEEDED a tight fitting collar for my own engines but not one seller could confirm the clearance for me and thus I had only one option, I have to make my own collar. I am not a machinist but I do understand these issues. They are not that hard understand for yourself. Most of you do but is easily overlooked with the lack of aftermarket support with this problem. With that said, I have to contract out this job.
I do small productions because I do not have the big dollars to market my product other than this write up. My runs normally have a collar count of 8-10 at a time and I also get my drain fittings and oil orifices made at the same time to reduce costs and further develop good relations with my machinist in hopes of future lowered prices. Rule of thumb is that the more "items" you make the less you will have to pay. Tomei must make thousands of collars in house and sell for roughly the same dollar I sell my collar for. So, if you think I am gouging your wallet, you need to think again. I have to pay approx $90 for each collar depending on the production run. I "try" to double my money as I have invested thousands of my own dollars on these items in this thread and thus renders a profit to make it worth my time. This is more than fare and I do try to offer discounts for return customers as I have dealt with hundreds of customers selling parts and cars over the years and in the end I am really just trying to help out the community. So please respect the price and if you think I am overcharging you, you MUST call me (or pm me a number with name and good time to call) and discuss as I will be forced to explain the dynamic of business to you. My number is in my signature on all domestic forums. If you think I am hard to get a hold of, your not putting in any efforts and I will not take any interweb ridicule for that fact.

Pictures of my tight clearance collars:







Here are some photos to conclude my opinion on loose fitting cranks and collars:

R32 crank shaft drive:
The actual part of this crank drive is very small. Approx 3/16" by 3/16" inch. I have seen this round off before. Possibly a cause from material being sucked into the pump or excessive wear.



R32 oil pump using R32 crank shaft





Nissan full drive cranks:
Notice how on all Nissan cranks there is ONLY a 3/16" inch contact patch. We bought the full drive cranks to use it to our advantage but your not using the full area surface of the flat. Only a small percentage of the drive gets used!



Continued on next thread post........................

[jdms13rhd]

N1 Pump using full drive Nissan crank shaft:
Notice the crack!!!! Its right in the middle of the area of which the crank drive contacts the oil pump gear. This is one of the better pictures I have found to have as a great example to show that if the clearances were tight, the crack would be right in the corner of the milling of the pump gear. Also take note that if the crack were right in the corner, there would be a thicker material on the pump drive to crack through. The vulnerable areas of this pump design is the thin material between each lobe. With a tight fitting collar, the chances of pump damage are greatly reduced.
You will also notice wear marks on both sides. When a rev limiter is hit, the crank drastically slows down and the pump has to "catch up" to the cranks decrease in speed. The result is the drive hitting the load side and then the (catch up) side (over and over and over during limiter). The crank in a RB spins clockwise if you face the front of the engine. If you know the configuration of the pumps enough, you would know that this pump has cracked on the load side in almost every case. Which would make perfect sense. The slamming from load side to "catch up" side will result in excessive load put on the edges of the drive and most importantly, the inner pump gear. The result of which is a broken/damages oil pump.



TAKE NOTE:
Im just trying to help out. Take this info with a grain of salt. In my opinion, this clearance issue should be "common sense". Im also not saying their isnt a design flaw in the pump and drive, because there is! I am just taking one very important factor that could help save your engine. The drive is usually the first thing RB guys will take into consideration. Its affordable when your doing any build and I am asking all of you to make up your own mind. I just want to help you understand what I have discovered.
Thus far my collars have been working great. I've had nothing but success with these collars. Next engine I blow due to the N1 pump design paired with my tight fitting collars I will most likely do one of two things. Go dry, or design a Reimax style gear with a 2JZ style drive. keep in mind I am at the 500hp range. Personally, if I were building a crazy powerful engine I would consider other options. But in most cases with builds these days, the wet pump design works fine. Aside from the design issue, I do think harmonics need to be taken into account. Old engine dampners (crank pulley) may be a part of pump failure. I personally run a ATI dampner and I suggest you consider it as well.



Before you decide to make a purchase, I urge you to review this entire thread and any other research you can find. If you have any questions after that are not listed in this thread, I am more than happy to give you my opinion. I am also open to any pictures, evidence, or any constructive criticism. Just keep it clean on here or shoot me a PM or call me.

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-10AN head fitting for rear welsh/frost plug:
-Suited for -10AN fittings
-Made from Aluminum
-Press fit for cyl head welsh/frost plug location
-Modifications ARE needed for hose and fitting fitment

Drain or crankcase vent?
I have read almost all info on this subject available on the net. There is some controversy on whether this modification is suited for a crankcase vent or an oil drain. I don't want to get into a heated debate on this thread so until I conduct my own tests I couldn't tell you either way. Depending if its a vent or drain or both depending on driving conditions, the build should consider what side this "drain" fitting goes on the sump. I have seen them drain to both sides. Remember that the crank spins clockwise when looking at the front of the engine. If its a drain, then it would be best suited to drain on the turbo side of the sump. The rotation of the crank in theory, will provide a partial vacuum to help pull the oil down where it belongs. If your on the vent theory, the "drain" would be best suited to be on the intake side of the sump as the rotation of the crank would give a partial area of easier access of air to escape upward helping the engine breath. You can notice on several builds that some catch cans will vent one way or another down to the sump. Some use the dip stick tube to do this and claim it works well as their primary catch drain back as well. N1 Rb engines use the front turbo oil drain as seen in a picture below.



You must keep in mind that there are LOTS of variables on these theories. You could use the rear head fitting as a vent and use the primary catch can "drain" for vent to help your engine breath....If you really wrap your head around this, it alone could be a good debate. What I am doing on a current build is adding 2X -10AN fittings to each side of the sump above oil level. I will then conduct my own tests on the dyno and street to give proper load and conclude my decision on my results I gather. I strongly suggest that we make another thread in the GTR tech section on this subject as there needs to be more info out to consider.
I still think this mod in the rear welsh plug helps in more than one situation and things like catch can set up, breathers, oil return sizing, OE drain in the rear of the head, size of hoses, restrictor (oil orifice) size and engine HP all have to be factored into consideration on what their function is primarily used for and then built for accordingly.

Here is a picture to get your mind working. I found it on a aus forum and it helped me wrap my mind on the subject.



You still need to buy and ...
You will still need to buy your 90 deg -10 an fitting, hose and -10 weld on for the sump. You can buy this stuff at Mopac and/or most performance shops. I dont make the entire kit. I only wanted to offer this fitting as it is not an off shelf item you can easily pick up.

Pix of the -10AN fitting:





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Continued on next thread post..................

[jdms13rhd]

Oil Orifice (restrictors):
These are sized 1.2mm restrictors for the cyl head oil feed. The Jun ones you get with your head gasket are a 1.5mm hole. For race only engines I believe the 1.5 is still too large. Choice on size depends on what head you are using, volume of your oil pump, rev range you normally see (race engines and street engines see different RPMS). I sized them 1.2mm so that you have a base line. You can easily drill it up to the size you need.
The factory restrictor is too large in almost every build. It is designed to see RPM's for street use and defiantly are not designed to go anything past 8000rpm for any amount of time! The cylinder head gets filled with oil and then there are draining issues. The result of too much oil in the head could be inadequate oil in your sump. Lack of oil in the sump could result in engine failure.

What size do I need???
For detailed info on oil orifice sizing PLEASE check out this link. Credits go to "sydneykid" on skylines Australia. With what I have done with rb's I find this info a great baseline. I had my own guideline on the exact same principal and it works!:
Oil Control In Rb's For Circuit Drag Or Drift - Skylines Australia

Install of orifice:
Leave the factory Orifice in the block. There is no need to pull it out. Simply just tap the oem orifice in and tap the new one on top of the old one. Use an appropriate sized punch and a soft mallet hammer. They push in rather easy. Dont tap it in too far. Take your time and measure it correctly so you have a clean finish flush with the surface of your block deck.

Here is a picture of the OE orifice that someone took out. This is just a reference picture so you know what it looks like.



Here are my 1.2mm oil orifice:








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RB30 Short blocks
All oil and coolant preventions are there. Coolant return has a bung, oil feed has a bung and the oil drain has a bung. All the bits from rb20/25 bolt right up. Super easy. I've got lots of simple know how info on the engines and the builds available or ask me anything and I can let you know what I've done or what I know. There RB30's do not have oil squirters. They are a pain to machine and it simply cost too much. If you really want, you can coat the piston crowns as most people do or drop in forged pistons. For RWD applications, installing an rb30 is rather easy. You need to take into account that the deck height is higher than any other RB engine. So things like dump pipes, intercooler piping, rad hoses all need to be taken into account.



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Loctite oil pump screws???
Another thing that is a must with any pump; loctite the backing plate with red "strong" loctite. I have pulled apart my fair share of RB's and around half of the engines I have torn down I always notice a couple of the screws backed out hitting the girdle holding the crank in the engine and or some only being hand tight. I even once had a oil pump failure due to this problem. The backing plate broke and the pump literally fell apart in conclusion. The screws are #3 Phillips. Use a #3! Sometimes they can be hard to remove so make sure you use tools that wont strip the screws. If you need spare screws, you can just re use the ones off your original pump. If you dont have specialty tools and your having troubles, get a buddy to hold the pump while on the floor while you clap your vise grips on the screw driver. push down as hard as you can and slowly wrench on it. Use common sense.

[jdms13rhd]

I added some pictures to help you guys out. If anyone has any questions about any of this, dont hesitate to ask me on here!

[jdms13rhd]

everything back in stock.

[gtst_type_m]

cmon anyone looking to make there engine reliable get these i got mine from him there awesome they fit on the pump is tight

[jdms13rhd]

bumpin this up

[Slavg87]

Hey man, I'm gonna need one of those collars and possibly the drain fitting. Please pm me the price shipped to m3j 2r1 Toronto Ontario. Thx

[jdms13rhd]

done

[jdms13rhd]

So, I recently had a chance to measure up a R34 crank the other day. Same deal as any full drive Nissan crank (LOOSE!) .012" total clearance! I also keep hearing stories of people breaking the inner gear on the oil pump with R34 cranks just as everyone hears it with r32 and R33 cranks. I had asked people using r34 cranks to measure for me and I never got an exact measurement but the story of "It fits tight" using N1 OEM pumps on R34 cranks. I now know that this is NOT true, as I suspected. Now, I am very curious about the ID size on the Reimax/Reinik gear set to see if Nissan EVER did conclude this loose fitting oil drive problem???

BTW, the R34 crank that I was looking at broke a Jun pump. I noticed straight away the problem just by looking at the drive on the crank. The same 3/16" contact patch going laterally with the crank. Owner said it was often that he was hitting the limiter and figured that was what broke his oil pump.

Also special notice!!!!!!______________________________
Any crank collar you purchase (whether it be one of mine, the jun or other), requires machining. The machinist needs to remove the material of the original drive and suit to fit the collar with a .002" crush. I have had several people ask about this so I figure id post it in here at least.

When you inquire about the collars, i will direct you back to this thread link and remind you of the fact that there is no slip on collar and that it requires simple machining that is cheap. Reference price listed in 1st post on what it may cost you to get one installed.

[jdms13rhd]

I just added more info that goes into better detail on these items. So if you've read it before, might be a decent read for when you have some time.

Cheers everyone!!!!

[Dragon Humper]

BTW, the R34 crank that I was looking at broke a Jun pump. I noticed straight away the problem just by looking at the drive on the crank. The same 3/16" contact patch going laterally with the crank. Owner said it was often that he was hitting the limiter and figured that was what broke his oil pump.

Ya hear that people, an overpriced, over hyped JUN pump broken just like any other pump. DON'T BOUNCE IT OFF THE LIMITER!!!!

This drive and an N1 pump would do anyone not reving over 9000 and not using Anti-lag or using the limiter like a 16 year old. I have a stock pump (or an N1) and rev to 8500 all the time and am putting out a min. 700hp. Not using a rev limiter. Have a race spec. ATI dampner but have not installed it yet.

You may think blowing the wad on a JUN just bought you some insurance but it's obvious that it's not the be-all end-all.



Jon.

[juzzo]

Hi Allen, i have an rb30 that i have massive oiling issues with (surprise surprise). when it was first built it had a collar and an n1 pump. 6 months down the line the n1 pump failed spectacularly, leaving minimal damage on the collar so i re used it with a standard 26 pump with reimax gears. recently what i thought was the front seal had failed, i pulled the motor out again to discover a cracked pump housing and egg shaped reimax gears. monet well spent... :/ the collar still has the same minimal damage but i checked the clerance to be around 0.020 on each side, totaling 0.040!!!

so crank out and new collar time, iv been reading about yours and want one. can you send me details on how to get one to australia?

also what pump would you recconend i use? i have been thinking either rb26 (NOT n1), rb26 with reimax gears again or 26 with spool gears. i use the car for drift, revv it to 7500rpm, generally try and stay away from the limiter. cheers

[Black BNR32]

sounds like a dry sump application imo

[juzzo]

I wish.. but I'm not made of money