WTB: bolt in roll cage.

[magular]

Hey guys,

So I'm looking for a simple bolt in roll cage, reason why I don't want a weld in is because I plan on selling the car at the end of the year and it will narrow the possible customers if if a weld in.

I was going to do a harness bar from eBay kuz it actually seems decent but on the track it's not safe "in case I roll". So I have to upgrade if I want to run a harness.

4 point cage is fine, if it had a harness bar we well would be better but doesn't need it. I can get that welded on after I receive it.

LAst point, umm I've heard bolt ins fit gtr and gts and sedans. I have a sedan, if anyone can shed light on this 2 door/4 foot same fit, let me know.

Thanks
Marc

[NismoS-tune]

Not to discourage you but if you're just going to sell it, why modify it further? Does it need a cage or just some preference? What's your story?

I recommend a cusco bolt it. I don't think it's NHRA approved (are any bolt in?) but is a roll cage.

[gtrjon]

Not to discourage you but if you're just going to sell it, why modify it further? Does it need a cage or just some preference? What's your story?

I recommend a cusco bolt it. I don't think it's NHRA approved (are any bolt in?) but is a roll cage.

his story is hes a drifter and he prides himself on being too low to drive. so in all likelihood it wont sell so buying a roll cage is not a bad idea but no i do not believe any bolt in cage is nhra approved

[magular]

i know its stupid to keep putting money into it, im just trying to finish it somewhat the way i want, i sold the rb30 kuz their was no point building that and barely having time to drive it. umm. i got a reccaro and sparo racing seat for my car, some deals i found here and their, and ill be drifting this summer and stock gts seats suck and im not buying gtrs, i already have good seats, ive always wanted 4 point, but not allowed to have that on the track unless i have a bar over my head if i flip.

i love my car, one of my fav cars ever, would love to keep it and go nuts, but i cant pursue the car world as much as i thought, and ill be selling to let go and move on. im trying to do everything properly and legit, when i bought my car i didnt even know how to do an oil change, no joke. so ive learned a massive amount. not quite dont yet with the custom suspension set up, turning out to be a pain. ah well. first drift event is april 28th, and i dont need the cage in and seats in for that event, just want to focus on the rest, but if i could get it all done i will. and i have all the interior pieces, carpets, door panels, seats, centre console, so if someone sais i want stock interior i can do that, hence no weld in cage, need to widen my range for selling purposes.

thats my story mostly. and used would be prefered as you can see i dont need anything fancy, just something that is safer then a straigh up harness bar.

[hozer]

Not to discourage you but if you're just going to sell it, why modify it further? Does it need a cage or just some preference? What's your story?

I recommend a cusco bolt it. I don't think it's NHRA approved (are any bolt in?) but is a roll cage.

Have to agree with this. Why spend money when you'll sell?

NHRA doesn't approve any bolt ins but to have this be a problem, you need to break into the 10's.

[magular]

ill check it out thank you Stardust.

also a bolt in roll case isnt that much money even im selling it. i want to enjoy my car for a few months. no need to tell me stupid i know, doing anything to a car you dont get money back, not the point. im probly selling the car for half what i bough, and ive put more into my car then i paid originally. at this point few hundreds of dollars isnt a big deal. im already in the hole. but im debt free, i dont owe any money to no one, so why not finish my project the way i want.

[hozer]

so why not finish my project the way i want.

Because you have every intention of selling it, and I'm guessing it doesn't run a 10 second 1/4. A roll cage, even bolt in will set you back $500. So there is 0 reason to buy one lol.

Enjoy it as is with out spending $500 on an essentially cosmetic upgrade.

That being said. We've all bought I useless stuff before so enjoy your baby while you have it

[Dragon Humper]

You dont need harness bar to run a harness.

Yes...yes you do. Any anchoring in a spot other than where a harness bar would be is setting you up to be a quadriplegic. I don't care if its DOT or not...its bad mojo. I know you see it a lot in Japan and other places but that doesn't make it a good idea. As much as I think a bolt-in cage from Jland is a joke, its still much better, if it has a harness bar, than belts that bolt to the floor or C-pillar or whatever.

Bolt in cages are perfectly legal in NHRA (11.49 to 10.0) if its an approved cage...JDM cages are not, the bases and bars are too small.




Jon.

[Black BNR32]

4:10 ROLL BARS
Mandatory in all cars running 11.49 or quicker, or per Class
Requirements. All roll bars must be within 6 inches of the rear
or side of the driver’s head, extend in height at least 3 inches
above the driver’s helmet with driver in normal driving position,
and be at least as wide as the driver’s shoulders or within 1
inch of the driver’s door. Roll bar must be adequately supported
or cross-braced to prevent forward or lateral collapse. Rear
braces must be of the same diameter and wall thickness as the
roll bar and intersect with the roll bar at a point not more than 5
inches from the top of the roll bar. Crossbar and rear braces
must be welded to main hoop. Sidebar must be included on
driver’s side and must pass the driver at a point midway
between the shoulder and elbow. Swing-out sidebar permitted.
All roll bars must have in their construction a cross bar for seat
bracing and as the shoulder-harness attachment point; cross
bar must be installed no more than 4 inches below, and not
above, the driver’s shoulders or to side bar. All vehicles with
OEM frame (i.e., pickup truck where body bolts to framerails)
must have roll bar welded or bolted to frame. Installation of

frame connectors on unibody cars does not constitute a frame;
therefore, it is not necessary to have the roll bar attached to the
frame. Unibody cars with stock floor and firewall (wheeltubs
permitted) may attach roll bar with 6-inch x 6-inch x .125-inch
steel plates on top and bottom of floor bolted together with at
least four 3/8-inch bolts and nuts, or weld main hoop to rocker
sill area with .125-inch reinforcing plates, with plates welded
completely. All 4130 chrome moly tube welding must be done by
approved TIG heliarc process; mild steel welding must be done
by approved MIG wire feed or approved TIG heliarc process.
Welding must be free of slag and porosity. Any grinding of
welds prohibited. See illustration. Roll bar must be padded
anywhere driver’s helmet may contact it while in driving
position. Adequate padding must have minimum 1/4-inch
compression or meet SFI Spec 45.1.
4:11 ROLL CAGE
Mandatory in all cars running quicker than 10.99 seconds or faster
than 135 mph, or per Class Requirements. Cars with unaltered
firewall, floor, and body (from firewall rearward, wheeltubs
permitted) running between 10.00 and 10.99, roll bar permitted in
place of roll cage, or per Class Requirements.
All cage structures must be designed in an attempt to protect
the driver from any angle, 360 degrees. All 4130 chrome moly
(CM) tube welding must be done by approved TIG heliarc
process; mild steel (MS) tube welding must be approved MIG
wire feed or TIG heliarc process. Welding must be free of slag
and porosity. Any grinding of welds prohibited. Additionally, roll
cage must be padded anywhere the driver’s helmet may contact
it while in the driving position.
With driver in driving position, helmet must be in front of main

hoop. If helmet is behind or under main hoop, additional tubing,
same size and thickness as roll cage, must be added to protect
driver. Main hoop may be laid back or forward, but driver must
be encapsulated within the required roll-cage components. On
unibody cars with stock floor and firewall (wheel tubs
permitted), the roll cage may be bolted or welded to the
floor/rocker box via 6-inch x 6-inch x .125-inch steel plates
similar to the roll bar attachment requirements of paragraph
4:10, page 74. Unless attaching to OEM floor or frame, the
minimum requirements for a frame member to which a roll-cage
member is attached are 1 5/8-inch x .118-inch MS or .083-inch
CM round and/or 2-inch x 2-inch x .058 MS or CM rectangular.
All cage structures must have in their construction a cross bar for
seat bracing and as the shoulder-harness attachment point; cross
bar must be installed no more than 4 inches below, and not above,
the driver’s shoulders, or to side bar. All required rear braces must
be installed at a minimum angle of 30 degrees from vertical and
must be welded in. Side bar must pass the driver at a point midway
between the shoulder and elbow.
Unless an OEM framerail is located below and outside of
driver’s legs, a rocker or sill bar, minimum 1 5/8-inch x .083 CM
or .118 MS or 2-inch x 2-inch x .058-inch CM or MS
rectangular, is mandatory in any car with a modified floor or
rocker box within the roll-cage uprights (excluding 6 square
feet of transmission maintenance opening). Rocker bar must be
installed below and outside of driver’s legs and must tie into
the main hoop, the forward hoop, frame, frame extension, or
side diagonal. Rocker bar may not tie into swing-out side bar
support. If rocker bar ties into side diagonal more than 5 inches
(edge to edge) from forward roll-cage support or main hoop,
a 1 5/8-inch x .083 CM or .118 MS brace/gusset is mandatory
between the diagonal and forward roll-cage support or main
hoop.
Swing-out side bar permitted on OEM full-bodied car, 8.50 e.t. and
slower. The following requirements (a through d) apply:
a. 1 5/8-inch O.D. x .083-inch CM or .118-inch MS minimum.
Bolts/pins must be 3/8-inch-diameter steel, minimum and in
double shear at both ends.
b. Male or female clevis(es) permitted. Male clevis must use two
minimum 1/8-inch-thick brackets (CM or MS) welded to each
roll-cage upright; female must use minimum 1/4-inch-thick
bracket (CM or MS) welded to each roll-cage upright. Pins must
be within 8 inches of the vertical portion of both the forward
and main hoops. A half-cup backing device must be welded to
the vertical portion of the main hoop (inward side) or the upper
end of the swing-out bar (outward side), minimum .118-inch
wall (CM or MS)
extending at
least 1 5/8
inches past the
center of the
pins. A clevis
assembly using
a minimum .350-
inch-thick male
component and
two minimum
.175-inch-thick
female
components may
use a 1/2-inch-

diameter Grade 5 bolt and does not require a half-cup backing
device.
c. Sliding sleeves of 1 3/8-inch x .083 CM or .118 MS, with
minimum 2-inch engagement, are permitted in lieu of the upper
pin/cup.
d. All bolt/pin holes in the swing-out bar must have at least one
hole diameter of material around the outside of the hole.
On all cars requiring a roll cage, if the OEM firewall has been
modified (in excess of 1 square foot for transmission removal, not
including bolted-in components), a lower windshield or dash bar of
1 1/4 x .058-inch 4130 chrome moly or 1 1/4 x .118-inch mild steel
is mandatory for connecting the forward cage supports.

[Dragon Humper]

this harness setup is proven, works for us and we all are still in control of our bodily functions even after some nasty drift oopsies. What your comment re this harness is based on?.

How about common sense. This has been discussed ad-nausium in the past. You want to rely on the seat back to save your spine? Fill your boots. I wouldn't trust that for nothin', even with a fancy-pants FIA approved seat. Bolting the harness to the floor or off to the side on the C-pillar is a bad idea....period. I wouldn't even feel comfortable with a plain harness bar unless it was welded to the B-pillar with the NHRA tube and plate specs.

FIA is kinda funny, they are really pissy about some things but are totally slack about other things that I concider more important. Not saying that the NHRA has it all sewn up, but FIA could learn a thing or two from them.

To each their own, do whatever you can look at and say to your self, "yea, head-on into a wall at 100km/h looks doable with this".

Edit: I converted all the specs on the Cusco cage just to refresh my memory and its not even close to NHRA on pretty much everything they want, and its a bolt together, which is not allowed at all.......


Jon.

[Dragon Humper]

Ummm..........thanks?




Jon.

[magular]

Umm side track a little? I have a pretty much stock rb20 with bolt on mods type stuff. Nothing interesting. Car is slow in the skyline world, and will never run 10 seconds obvi. Just looking for used bolt in.

If u have one or know where to get one let me know, otherwise all this math and regulars and stuff doesn't apply.

Thanks

[caliber676]

Stardust, the rear seat anchor points will most likely hold, but think about your body and seat being pushed forward while your holding force is being direct down and on your shoulders and back. 2-3g's of force being forced downward on your spine in a split second wont end well.

While the harness should provide some downward force to hold you in the seat the load should be spread over the belt not in one spot whichever is more likely to arise from a lower harness position.

Your going to continue doing as you wish and others will choose to go a safer method. It's like telling a smoker that cigarettes are bad.

To the op, the cost of a cage from Japan is around 1100-1200 shipped for a simple cusco last time I checked. There are some American companies that sell cages for weld in but can be easily modified for bolt in