Car Audio

[R32_TDOT]

anyone here an expert on car audio?? i have some questions on a setup im looking for.. long story short im a heavy metal guy and i like my sound quality.. subs dont have to be too strong and i need a good high SQ setup so the sound is crisp and clear... from what i know so far i need :

Head unit ( already have)
component speakers ( 4 speakers and 4 tweeters)
a crossover???
a 4 channel amp ( wiring also etc)

am i missing anything ?? :-?

[RHDskyline]

you don't need a crossover. But you might want to get a capacitor. I am actually going to tell you to get one. You will want at least 1-12 inch subwoofer as well. i don't listen to heavy metal in my car, but i have before and i know that my subs play loud because of the double kick pedal from all the heavy metal bands.


make sure you buy the appropriate size cable for the size of your amp. to big og OHMs and the amp will be ruined and you will constantly blow fuses. too small and your amp won't play to the full capacity.


make sure that when you are hooking the subs up to the trunk you run the power on one side and the speaker (rca cables) on the other side


Edit. What head unit do you have: contrary to popular belief, the head unit can make a HUGE difference

[R32_TDOT]

i have a sony CDX GT200 Deck

http://www.sony.co.uk/product/ica-cd-tuners/cdx-gt200

# DRIVE-S
# 4 x 50W S-MOSFET power output
# Mp3 / WMA / ATRAC3 playback
# Front Auxiliary input
# 24-bit DAC (Digital / Analog Converter)
# EQ3
# Rear / Sub switchable
# RDS Tuner
# Detachable Front Panel

Technical
specifications

Please be aware that the features/specifications can differ from country to country.

Collapse all

FM Tuner

Tuner Type
SSIR-EXA

ABC (Automatic Bandwidth Control)
YES

BTM (Best Tuning Memory)
YES
RDS EON
YES

Tuner Station Presets

FM
18.0
MW
6.0
LW
6.0
CD Player

Drive-S
YES

Drive-S HX
NO

Mechanism for
1 x CD

CD-R Playback capability
YES

CD-RW Playback capability
YES

MP3 Playback capability
YES

ID3 Tag display (Track, Artist, Album name)
YES

WMA Playback
YES

CD Text display
YES

Title Scroll (CD Text)
YES

Repeat Play
YES

Shuffle Play
YES

Specification Audio

Digital Filter
8 fs

D/A Converter
24 bit

Frequency Response (Hz)
10 - 20,000

Tolerance (dB)
+/-1

Signal to Noise Ratio (dB)
120.0

Changer Control

CD, MD Changer Control
NO

Walkman Control

Walkman Control Ready, via optional Adaptor
NO

Amplifier

S-MOSFET Output Stage
YES

Output Power, DIN 45324 at 4 ohm (W)
4 x 26

Max. Output Power, 1 kHz at 4 ohm (W)
4 x 50

BBE-MP Digita
NO

DSO (Dynamic Soundstage Organizer)
NO

EQ 7 (7 Band Equalizer)
NO

EQ 3 (3 Band Equalizer)
YES

Loudness
NO

Pre-amp Output (stereo RCA)
1

Selectable High Pass Filter
NO

Max. Pre-amp output level (V)
2.0

Sub-Switch (rear out / sub out switchable)
YES

Selectable Low Pass Filter in Sub-mode
YES

Sub Volume Control in Sub-mode
YES

Audio AUX Front Input (3.5 mm Mini Jack)
YES

Safety Commander Interface
3.5 mm Mini Jack
NO

Infrared
NO

Others

3D Fluorescent Display
NO

Display Type
13 Segment

Display Colour
1 Colour

Contrast Adjustment
NO

Display Dimmer
YES

Key Illumination
red

Sensor for IR Commander
YES

Removable Front Panel
YES

Security Code
NO

Integrated Clock
24 h

Telephone Attenuator
YES
ISO Connector
YES

Installation Angle (degrees)
0 - 45

Dimensions
Width (mm) - approx.
178.0
Height (mm) - approx
50.0
Depth (mm) - approx.
179.0

Supplied Remote Control
IR Card Commander
NO

Safety Commander
NO
Optional Remote Control
IR Card Commander
RM-X114

Safety Commander
NO

[BlackAura]

Hmmmm, I was told not to get a capacitor, as they are generally used incorrectly, when a system is using too much power and needs higher gauge power cable.

Personally I'm doing two component speakers in the front. If you get component's then they should come with crossovers, so the tweeters only the get the high ranges and the mids only get the mid-low ranges.

I'm sure you can run components in the rears, but from everything I've been reading, if you're not going to have people in the backseat often (so far I would say I've had more than one passenger in my car like....3 or 4 times, in 2 years of driving it), it's not required. In fact, sometimes the sound stage can be setup better (depending on the car) if you only run fronts.

If you're running a sub or two, you'll need amps for each, and probably want a decent sub box (just generally knowledge, I've never run subs).

Personally I'm setting up:
2 x Front 6.5" Componts (1" tweeters), which will fit with some modifications, if they don't go too deep (there are threads that mention maximum depth on here).

2 x Rear, not sure what size but I'm thinking I'll go circular (originals were 9x6 if I recall correctly, so 6.5"'s should fit okay).

1 x 4 Channel amp

Don't forget the power wire, if you're running subs you will want 0/1 gauge (they call it "ought-one"), fused at battery, running to a splitter (and to 4 gauge) in the trunk, which I believe to do multiple amps correctly you then fuse each of those power lines. You can ground the amps in the trunk somewhere, but....again, if you'll be running the 4-channel amp plus two sub amps, then you may need to do it differently.

Also your head unit will have to support pre-outs to the amps.

Good luck! I started a car audio thread somewhere (general tech I think?) and there will be some good info there too.

[RHDskyline]

well i don't to sound like a downer and i don't want to make you spend money.

i would recommend an Alpine or Eclipse. Those are the only two brands that i like to deal with.

Example

http://www.alpine-usa.com/US-en/products/product.php?model=CDA-9884

Your deck will work if you are low on cash but if you can, go to your nearest dealer and check em out first hand and play with them. ask a lot of questions.


Are you looking for speakers and subs to. I would go with a nice 12 inch kicker square sub and poineer speakers. as for an Amp, it doesn't really matter. Maybe like an rockford fosgate

[R32_TDOT]

im not looking for alot of bass a 8 or 10 inch would be fine , im a heavy/death/black metal guy so im looking for quality sound

[Shadao]

first off... DO NOT use a crapacitor

even the guy who first came out with them has admited they are a gimmic !!!!

i am more of a hiphop person, but i love my rock'n'roll... i have 2x10's in my DD

if you want a little added bass then 1 10inch sub should be good enough...

do not go 12 inch as the response is not as tight as a 10inch and the bass will sound sloppy...

usually a component speaker set comes with a crossover unit to break the sound up between the speakers...

after that its all about how much money you have to spend...

[specialedition]

You dont need a capasitor, If i were you, buy speakers that have high treble output to get the high notes. As for subs you really dont need one but since metal does have bass which is very faint i would get a 10 inch sub.

This way your speakers are nice loud and clear with a 10 inch sub to kick the bass in the backround. you cant go wrong

[Micho]

Not to thread-jack but I have not the slightest knowledge of car audio but wondering if someone could point me in the right direction. Left side of the car makes sound but the entire right side of the car isn't making any, only if I turn the volume up up. Wiring problems, blown speakers, any ideas?

[RHDskyline]

that could be a number of factors. Could be the deck(not sending a signal out). Could be a fault in the wire somewhere along the line. Could be a blown speaker.



But anyway. Back to the original poster. The only reason i said to use a capacitor(thats how you spell it) was because when i was running my subs without one, my headlights would flash, now that i have one, my amp isn't constantly drawing power from the battery. Now maybe my battery is weak, i don't know, but i was just giving my suggestion.

And to Shadao who said that a 12 inch would sound sloppy, where are you getting your info from. As long as he sets his amp up right and does everything else right, the 12 will sound crisper than the 10.

Now for what the OP wants. He is only going to want 1 sub, and 10 will probably be your best bet because you want to hear the bass, but its not the only thing you want to hear.


Just buy good quality speakers and if you want, you can do what i did and i have a separate amp for my speakers. It gives them a little bit more juice.

[Lv2exlr8]

Whoever said you don't need a crossover is wrong. I used to install car and home audio for Kawartha TV and Stereo. And i can attest that a properly setup system WIT a crossover is the only way to go for a SQ setup. That being said, most of the high end companies make some competitive products. To get what your asking for you need to set out a budget on what you want to spend...At one point i had over $30,000 worth of car audio in our demo car and it won many shows.

You get what you pay for unfortunately, you can spend less on some components and more on the important ones to achieve better results on a budget, however the starting point is setting what you want to spend and going from there.

I have a pair of US amps competition spec sitting around i spent over $5000 for each and a 4 channel to match. It just depens on how much you looking to spend and i can help you out from there.

Kyle.

[Shadao]

The only reason i said to use a capacitor(thats how you spell it){i know how its spelled i was making a funny :P} was because when i was running my subs without one, my headlights would flash, now that i have one, my amp isn't constantly drawing power from the battery. Now maybe my battery is weak, i don't know, but i was just giving my suggestion.

And to Shadao who said that a 12 inch would sound sloppy, where are you getting your info from. As long as he sets his amp up right and does everything else right, the 12 will sound crisper than the 10.

a CRAPacitor is like adding a battery to your system... your alt is still drawing as much as it was before, but now there is a small amount of reserve power to smooth out your inadequate electrical system... so if anything adding a crap will actually cause more strain on your elec system but it wont be as easy to see since your headlights dont dim any more...

CAP's should be used as a last resort!!!

before adding a crapacitor or a bigger alternator or an alternator over-drive pulley, you should always do your BIG-3 wiring as this will 99% of the time cure headlight dimming issues,an upgraded deep cycle battery is a must have red/yellow top optima(or something similar) will both do the trick... if you dont know what your big-3 wiring is thats easy

1)Battery positive (+) to alternator - From the positive terminal on your battery to the alternator positive (+) post

2)Engine block to chassis ground - From engine block to chasis. This is to strengthen the ground.

3)Battery ground (-) to chassis ground - From the negative terminal on your battery to your car's chassis.


the reason why i say a 10inch sub will sound tighter than a 12inch sub is the frequency response rates... a 10in sub as a tighter frequency response... it also has less travel which keeps the bass tigher... there fore it is impossible to make a 12 sound more crisp than a 10...

as for where i get my info... this is the first year in 4 years i have not competed in SQ and SPL in my local sound comp where i usually finish 1st place or near the top... last year i hit a 140.1 with 2x10in in a sedan, with a regular slot port box... if i had the same set-up in a hatchback id hit 143ish, and with a SPL box id be in the 147db range...

i know more about audio stuff than performance stuff since my first 2 cars were gutless pieces of junk with no hope of performance so i got into the audo scene...

[RHDskyline]

[rak123]

But you might want to get a capacitor. I am actually going to tell you to get one.

i am gonna have to dis-agree on this one... i only beleive caps are good w/ an alternator that is pushing out more than stock... with a stock charging system the caps tend to ruin the alt... but if you have an alt pushing out more than stock amps then caps deliver much smoother power.
i have gone through like 3 systems and have found that on stock alts this tends to happen... but on my 160 amp alt it couldnt sound better

[Shadao]

i am gonna have to dis-agree on this one... i only beleive caps are good w/ an alternator that is pushing out more than stock... with a stock charging system the caps tend to ruin the alt... but if you have an alt pushing out more than stock amps then caps deliver much smoother power.
i have gone through like 3 systems and have found that on stock alts this tends to happen... but on my 160 amp alt it couldnt sound better

you must be using some serious electronics to need a 160a alt...