potential buyers compression test

[Terrh]

those numbers are good and you are allowed up to 14 psi deviation between cylinders on a healthy engine.

171 may be the nissan "new" spec but I have yet to see even a rebuilt rb pull 170's. One of those mythical numbers. You have a healthy used engine though. Maybe they are used to higher static compression motors and are basing their numbers off past results.

Mine pulled 170's across the board after about 20,000KM of driving.

Before then no, after then I never checked.

Maybe it doesn't happen often but it can.

[mcfly]

post pics of that compression test

[NismoS-tune]

i would bet on your starter being very happy with you

Yea...I thought about that

Starters have a pretty good duty cycle but not continuous rating It's an electrical motor so heat hits windings fast. If you burn out a starter, it's either old and was on it's way out anyways, you did it too long (15 seconds if I recall on a good starter is a good limit and 30 second cool time or something). I wouldn't worry about killing a starter doing a compression test, then again, it may be a chinese starter lol. Anyways, I once did 3 conpression tests in a row with an optima battery, no charger to see if It could handle it and have similar readings. More for a curiosity thing. +-5% difference and the battery was fine as expected (5 year old red top). Haven't charged it once aside from the usual "rotating diode generator/prime mover" for those who get me :P You'll most likely kill your bendix before burning out the coils. Bendix are somewhat easy to replace right the right tools.

Oh ya, starter is fine as expected. 20 years old, 135,000 km. It's not a vibrating C#$K ring that would only last moment on constant use lol

North American starters BTW are more robust due to bigger engines too, unlike lawnmowers like we have.

If you have starter issues with a good battery, clean the DC motor brushes/guides of holders. Clean the commutator. If armature or field coils are in rough shape, overhaul the motor with a used POS from a scrap yard if you want. If the starter is slow or sluggish, charge the battery!!

If the used starting motor is heard to operate, but, the engine cranks erratically, the possibilities are that either the bendix or the flywheel gear is defective. Replace bendix or flywheel or re-machine gear ring if you're cheap. If the drive pinion does not move out of mesh because the drive pinion or armature shaft is dirty or damaged, REBUILD starter. In case the solenoid switch is the problem, replace it cause that's too much work to rebuild... like rewinding a frikin alternator.
Even funnier, if you can't afford a boost/tow truck/revolt, even a toy plane battery can start that "ZOMG MASSIVE STARTER MOTOR" with dead battery.

http://www.ganges.com/Starting_a_Car_with_a_Toy_Plane_Battery_video_6519980/

[doublejceballos]

He did mention Civic type R motors pushing upwards of 200 psi, which I thought was irrelevant.

LOL
id think you might make more cash from someone who knew what they were doing.
Say no thanks