Best Option To Reach Reliable 450-500 HP

[Daryl @ RightDrive]

r33 engines are the strongest. theres a rumour that r34 blocks have cracked. but there are so many highly modded r34 rb's i wouldn't worry about it.

personally, i'd go withthe r34 crate engine. you are getting a fully rebuilt engine by Nissan, youcan't go wrong with that.

BTW, the prices listed are pretty average, I can get them for cheaper then that.

[Wingnut]

tokes, that list is nice! You should be able to push 600WHP easily. As Dan said, though, you'll want full metal gaskets. You might as well go with the Tomei kit, it has the metal intake, exhaust and head gaskets, as well as the oil restrictor. I perfer one stop shopping!!

[Daryl @ RightDrive]

to be honest, the 1000cc injectors and fuel pump are overkill, I'ld go with 600cc injectors and a nismo or tomei fuel pump.

as for the oem gasket kit, i'd use the tomei instead. as other have said above, it's a better deal.

also deleted mafs with a 5 bar sensor is way more then you need. Z32 mafs will do you fine.
5 bar? for 550ps all you need is 1.4kg max.

[PH_Motorsports]

I'm going to put a build sheet together soon, and take your feedback and go from there

[GTR-Dad]

Tokes,
I assume Nismo oil sump means oil pump. (Good choice)

You'll want to pay attention to the sump as well though. A Tomei baffle will help keep your oil pickup submerged.

Dan

[Bruizer]

A Nur engine almost costs 15g landed? Doesn't sound right. I could be wrong though. I don't really see 600whp under 13g but that's just my opinion thinking about reliability lol. My build starts next winter, but I have 2 years to stretch the costs, after all I do work at "wallmart" so it takes time to scrape cash together. Sometimes I wish I still lived with my parents rofl: NOT!

[The.Skyline.Shop]

the problem with a new engine from Nissan is it is still a stock engine, achieving a good revving 500 hp you will still need to open up the motor.

a few must's

Steel gaskets ALL
Jun makes a great kit.

Good oil control
Oil pump(n1 is a minimum-Nismo/Jun Tomei if you want to push the car)
oil pump drive
baffle
oil drain (if you are a heavy track star)
Oil orifice (if you have a newer block)

Turbo's
Garrett 2860r is the best bang for the buck and will support 600hp
o2 housing for the turbo's
these make a HUGE difference.

Head studs, rod bolts and main studs
again JUN has all of these

Good bearings
ACL/TOMEI/power enterprises


Cams
these will help you get your 500 hp much easier and quicker

Pistons
Get rid of the old cast lumps
Good forged units from Wiseco or JUN will lighten things up and help you rev.

Fuel/Spark
Oversize your injectors, you dont want these to max out
Good fuel pump

Good coils
Splitfire or NEW oem
HKS spark amp wouldn't hurt

The 32 block is solid
it is usually the build that is bad.
Get everything speced and balanced

Rods and crank are nice, not required for 500 hp but it will sure make things that much stronger and lighter,if you are going to build your engine yuo might as well do it once.

Rods we like JUN and Carrillo
i dont like the eagle rods, yes they are cheap but there is a reason for that,
Remember you are building a GTR, they are never cheap.

Cranks,
any aftermarket one will make a difference but not needed unless yours is bent(we have seen this more times that you would think)

I think i got it all.


Hey Dan/Matt
Kind of sounds like your guys' build.

[mcfly]

r33 engines are the strongest. theres a rumour that r34 blocks have cracked. but there are so many highly modded r34 rb's i wouldn't worry about it.

Based on what knowledge or hear say? I would be interested to find why you think this.

I cracked a 32 block, if you let the harmonics get away you are going to destroy any block you have. The later casting block have been known for casting impurities as you would expect from nissan trying to cut development costs. Porosity becomes a problem and you have to watch out for it.


Anyways once you get into the territory that you have to worry about destroying the block it will split between the bores out back. That's if you dont throw a rod through the side of it first.


I also agree with the eagles being kept out of our rb26's. but then tomei is out too as they are the same rod.

[Wingnut]

I also agree with the eagles being kept out of our rb26's. but then tomei is out too as they are the same rod.

Is this for real?? I'd like to see a side-by-side. My Tomei's look nothing like the Eagles, other then being H-beam....

And I don't really beleive that Tomei would buy rods forged in China, machined in the USA and re-badge them. That's just based on my experiance with Tomei.

[mcfly]

http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/upload/74699-my-new-h-beam-junk-eagle-rods.html

[skyline_steve]

I have read that artical and it was very interesting.kind of funny though.

[Wingnut]

I remember that thread. Fluke. Otherwise, you'd think it would happen more often. My Tomei's came in a Tomei box, they must be official!!!lol..

And, mine did have the L19's too.

[tokes]

to be honest, the 1000cc injectors and fuel pump are overkill, I'ld go with 600cc injectors and a nismo or tomei fuel pump.

as for the oem gasket kit, i'd use the tomei instead. as other have said above, it's a better deal.

also deleted mafs with a 5 bar sensor is way more then you need. Z32 mafs will do you fine.
5 bar? for 550ps all you need is 1.4kg max.

I've thought about the tomei gasket kit, and I just haven't gotten around to ordering it yet. 1000 cc injectors = same price as 600's for me, so why not go larger. The nismo/tomei fuel pumps are also way more than I paid for the bosch 044, so bigger can't hurt.

And the MAF's is one thing that I really, really don't need. Z32 MAF's are usually 400+ dollars for the pair. The map sensor bit is a typo, it's actually a 3 bar map sensor, and I'm getting it for dirt cheap, as in under 100 bucks. So once you factor in the cost of not having to buy the MAF's ($300 bucks saved) it's almost the same price to go with the AEM as it would be to run a PFC and keep the MAF's.

As for the eagles, you guys can think that all you want, but I'm perfectly fine with them. I've seen eagles in 900 WHP 4-banger hondas, and running deep 7's and 9000+ RPM's out of 8-cylinder fords, I have full confidence in them for my build.

[Bruizer]

Eagle rods are like N1 oil pumps??? You don't have to believe everthing you hear. They were probably Ebay rods that weren't genuine.

Hey, I have a used cat converter from my bnr for sale, it adds 60HP, I'll sell it for $100

If you downshift going up a hill you will frag your tranny!
If you don't warm up your car for 5 mins or more you will crack you block!
If you don't put octane booster you'll knock!
If you let your girlfriend/wife drive you GTR she'll break it!

[paradox]

1000 cc injectors = same price as 600's for me, so why not go larger

Because they will be a bitch to tune at anything but WOT, for no good reason given the amount of power you want to make?