high end performance

[EtienneGignac]

Hey Gunslinger.

Here's my answer to your very vague question. There are not a whole lot of RB30 builds in canada. Most of them seems to be in the UK or in australia so your best bet would be to look on the other forums for more infos (www.gtr.co.uk, www.skylinesaustralia.com and their huge rb30 thread, etc.)

That being said, we do have a couple of builds documented like Felix's project horny (look in the project gtr section). It might not be typical of the average rb30 build though...

I remember Rob from RIPS saying once that a RB30 would go to 600ish without upgrading the internals. Higher than that and you're most likely looking at forged parts (spool has a rebuild kit...) like the other ones told you, a whole bunch of other uprated parts. The tranny is known to chew 3rd gear on that much torque.

Overall I've seen mostly success with rb26/30. Might do one someday...

Hope that helps.

Etienne

[NismoS-tune]

Alright then.

Start lining up for some serious fueling. You'll surely want a fuel antisurge system and much larger lines to run from the rear. You'll most likely want 2 pumps intake and 2 pumps out of the surge tank or go the cheaper way of simply going on single pump with no safety backup. A second set of squirters will be a good idea some larger AM intake plenums have mounts and premarked injector spots ready for secondary fuel rails like the nismos unit, maybe the Greddy one. Better oiling is a must. Like JD74's plan, you need a dry sump system or some well designed wet sump, an accusump is good if you want a backup if your pumps fails mid way through your drag run. AM brakes are not needed on a drag car and a fair share of people don' upgrade them on drag cars. You'll want some good stiff suspension and upgraded AR bars. With 800+hp, you shouldn't go less than 10inch rims and some sick slick/semislicks. The RE01R are borderline street to track tires. You'll need some solid pipework for intake, none of that floppy coupler crap for your most likely high boost rates. A triple plate clutch is without question. The front diff is advised to be replaced if you plan on using the attesa and the R32 gearbox should not be used in this setup.

These are just opinions from other cars I've seen running. Australians have many 1000+hp cars unlike Canada. check out SAU. The best thing to do is read up on other 1000hp car builds to see which way they went rather than asking about what you want for that kind of power. People that walk the high HP plank know what they're doing or have lots of money to make up for stupid mistakes. If you want that power, talk to those that have it, not us with broken project cars, staying under 600hp or limited budget guys. Find a shop that is willing to build you that car and find out what they want to do cause you're not builing a 1000hp car in your mom's garage. Hire someone to but the project together if you dont' know what you want and you'll rely on your money to build the car.

Once again, just my thoughts on something I won't be doing.

[NismoS-tune]

The T51R SPL turbo is what your after for big power.

[Dragon Humper]

For big power on the street all you need is 16" wheels and M/T ET Streets (or equivelant DOT slick). The factory GTR wheels with those tires will go 8 sec. quarters all day long in a GTR. Now the car will handle like absolute SH1T with them on, folowing every rut on the road and giving you a HUGE scare if the road is wet. HOWEVER, you will break almost nothing drivetrain wise other than a clutch (and 3rd gear if not upgraded) because the soft marshmelowyness (made up word) of the tires will save alot of parts.

1000 hp (Hell, 500 hp and 500 lbft of torque) on an unworthy chassis (no upgrades to speak of) will give you grief 24/7 with sticky R-compounds on 10" rims. You'll break sh1t on a weekly basis (your having fun with it, right?) giving you a huge ulsore (sp?).

I would address the chassis first before you even think about shooting for the stars with horsepower.



Jon.

[Gunslinger]

thank you guys much appreciated with direction to pointing me over to the uk and aussie forums as well as nismo s tune giving me a brief detailed description of some major areas that i want to address. lastly thank you for keeping thread on topic greatly appreciated

[Skym]

Also NZ has the fastest 4wd GTR (Heat Treatments), 8.55 sec Croydon dragcar, 8.0 sec Red Baron (owned by ex driver of Croydon dragcar), etc.

Skylines were and still are sold new in Australia, NZ, UK.

It's how you drive the car. I don't think a 500hp GTR will break anything on street spec sticky tyres or slicks, unless you rev and dump when launching all the time.

From what I understand 3rd gear in gearbox fails when flat shifting into 3rd gear. Shift less aggressively into 3rd, should be ok.

[tokes]

Slicks are NOT easy on parts, but any stretch of the imagination.

Radials can be very hard on the drivetrain of some vehicles, because wheel hop is killer.

Spinning is the easiest, wheel hopping is the worst, dead hooking is a close second.

[Skym]

A GTR racecar I know of has 550hp on semislicks and has had no problems with drivetrain. Not saying it doesn't damage the drivetrain, but haven't seen or heard of any failures on that GTR after hard use. Driver doesn't rev, dump when launching.

The Gibson racecars used to break parts when launching at start of race. Both GTR, GTS-R on slicks. I think with GTR they allowed it to wheelspin of the line.

On my car the diffhead, both halfshaft's, propshaft were stuffed from hard launches on normal street tyres. Although rear tyres were a soft compound and felt like there was a little amount of wheelspin.

With launching hard, some load up against the handbrake, so drivetrain is locked in place. Moving from coast to coast (not locked up) is what destroy's diffhead's and in turn driveshaft's, etc. They call it drivetrain shock.

From what I understand axle tramp (I guess you call it wheel hopping??) is due to a suspension problem which makes the subframe, diffhead, etc twist and untwist and in turn makes the wheels go up and down when launching hard. Fitting stronger subframe, diffhead bushes or hard mounting subframe, etc (like I noticed they do on GTR dragcars), partly eliminates this problem. But still have to fix suspension problem which caused the axle tramp in the first place.

[tokes]

Yeah, your axle

[Skym]

Thanks for clearing that up.

Also axle tramp can damage suspension, etc if you don't fix the problem.

[mcfly]

I thought group A cars snapped front axles.

[Skym]

As far as I know the GTS-R was rear halfshaft's, as it had custom halfshaft's as an upgrade.

Nowdays most fit GTR halfshaft's, diffhead, etc to R32 GTS subframe for a stronger rearend.

Not sure what the failure on Gibson GTR was. Some drag GTR's suffer from front propshaft failure. If I remember correctly the HT dragcar broke that one. There's probably footage of the pass somewhere, where it broke.

From what I can remember the Croydon GTR broke I think was a rear diffhead ear. But I think it was a stock diffhead.

[tokes]

Thanks for clearing that up.

Also axle tramp can damage suspension, etc if you don't fix the problem.

I had a long post written up but when I hit send it just posted those three words. God damn iPhone. I'll finish posting later.

[NismoS-tune]

speaking of Front axles, the driveshaft shop has some of the best axleshafts I've seen for a respectable price. Nissan went with halfshafts in the rear but most upgrades are 1 peice without mods so why did they go with halfshafts? The issue is they only have rear driveshafts, no front driveshaft. Where would someone go upgrade their frontshaft?

[mcfly]

any drivetrain shop should be able to make you one. Keep in mind that there isn't really room to go bigger, the transmission is already notched to accommodate the prop.

HT also sells front axles as those will fail before the prop shaft does.