7000 dollar Budget Build.? Stock Car... Ideas?

[TrevoR32]

Hello All,

with summer coming to an end....some of us look to putting the car away and focus on other projects.... or some use the time to think about the following season. I am the latter. Like the title says I am throwing around the relatively small 7000 dollar amt for a "build". The car has rsr exhaust, 3.5 i believe.... splitfire coils blitz ebc spec r boost controller...and thats it.... therefore susp etc all stock.... i never abuse the car, rarely redline and would probably want something that i could track a couple wknds a year without blowing it up...I know these threads have been beaten to death and i hate even posting it but i want to tap into the minds of you gtr greats. I have been dealing with manny at federal and i want to use him for a lot of the work. does 7000 seem reasonable to uprate (with decent parts) turbos, fuel sys, susp, rims, brakes? to an extent? etc? So if some of you have suggestions, stories.... constructive thoughts... it would be much appreciated. Thank you in advance.

Trevor.

[PH_Motorsports]

upgrade suspension and brakes, then save the rest for if something motorwise goes bad.

[Shadao]

upgrade suspension and brakes, then save the rest for if something motorwise goes bad.

not if but when

[Marke]

I would go with changing your engine management. Tune it for our fuel, enviroment and richen up 5th and 6th cylinder. Power FC gives good bang for the buck. Worth getting Dataloggit for PFC. Getting rid of stock turbo's is a good idea, but will take a big chunk of your budget. Around 8hrs to change turbo's if you know what your doing and have the right tools. Get after market dump pipes while you are at it.

Get a better intake filter. I don't recommend sponge filter as they don't do a very good job of filtering. Apexi make very good filters.

If you aren't doing the work yourself then labour will eat up lots of your budget.

If you are tracking your car, don't cheap out on your tires. BFG KDW's or equivalent are the very least I would go with. Get better brake pads and make sure your rotors are in good shape. Get good brake fluid, DOT 4 at the very least. Motul 5.1 is good. Braided brake lines and a Master cylinder stopper will go a long way to improving brake responsiveness. Make sure all your suspension components are in top shape.(ie tie rod ends, bushings) Use a good synthetic oil for track days especially if you don't have an oil cooler. Royal Purple or Motul 300V are good.

That is some basic stuff to consider. After that its kind of what ever you want.

[Marke]

Oh and get a better clutch. Oem one won't handle much more Hp than stock. Actually you can destroy a new OEM clutch in as few as 5 hard launches. I have had very good success with the Nismo copper mix single. Very streetable and does well on the track up to about 350whp. After that you would want to look at a twin plate. The single is fine for up to 400whp, if you are not overly hard on it, but won't hold so well with track use and hard launching.

[NismoS-tune]

Well since you don't really drive it like a skyline (granny driving, not abusing and no redlines), you don't need much power, badass brakes or stiff suspension.

Get a compression test done to see how things are. If the numbers are good then stick with bolt on stuff like ecu, injectors, intake bits, exhaust, maybe turbos if you want more power (R34 turbos maybe). $7000 won't get you 500hp reliably but you can have fun with it. Get nicer rims, better tires, stickers (lol).

No need to pull the engine if it's fine unless you have more money.

[cobrAA]

ECU Tuning- 600$
Turbo- 1600$( if you search)
Injector 540cc- 600$
Fuel pump walbro- 250$
Basic coilover- 1500$
Total: 4550$ + a couple of hours of labour!

Oh yeah I forgot your OEM clutch.. Figure another 600$ for a good 6 puck clutch + around 500$ for labour. While you are there, it would be worth to check your synchro and stuff like that!

So for a bit less than your 7000$. IMO you can make it to 450hp reliably with this upgrade.

With the rest of money, you could buy some gauges to check your stuff when you have fun.

[archaeic_bloke]

had your timing belt and water pump job done yet?

if you want the car to last, i would reccomend the following:

- drain fluids from "Transfercase, engine coolant, engine oil, brake fluid, transmission fluid, front diff, and rear diff" and replace it all with high end synthetic fkuids.

- replace all the worn tie rods and ball joins and any torn boots.

- replace the timing belt, the water pump, idler, tensioner, crank oil seal, valve cover gasket and grommet set


thats a list of things which usually need replacing on any newly owned skyline.


that will eat up a good portion of money though, but it`ll ensure you keep the car in good shape.


then i would start with things like intake, exhaust (down pipes if u dont have em alrdy) then what ever power upgrades u can muster.

[Skym]

I agree. Service car, repair failed parts first before any mods.

As long as you don't lean on engine too much, should be ok. If engine has done high km (over 100,000km), don't lean on engine, be conservative with hp requirements.

If you are going to track car, I'd suggest -

- ECU retune to suit North American fuel
- Steel wheel turbo's
- Catchcan setup with return hose to sump
- Baffle plate in sump (Nismo, Tomei, etc) to prevent oilstarvation problems (requires removal of engine to remove sump)
- Accusump tank setup, rigged off ignition which should help prevent oilstarvation problems
- Tomei Headgasket with Tomei metal intake, exhaust gasket set (done when engine is out of car).
- Intake, exhaust mods
- Boost controller

Oilstarvation is probably one of the most important area's on RB engine when tracking a Skyline. Even RB20DET suffer this oilstarvation problem.

[TrevoR32]

good ideas guys..... its all those little things that get you i find... lol.

[NismoS-tune]

You can do a crank oil seal with the engine in place?

[Skym]

Yes, normally done when cambelt (you guys call it a timing belt), crank pully is removed. Do the intake cam, exhaust cam oilseals at the same time while everything is off.

[archaeic_bloke]

yep... thats exactly what i had done... as i listed before.

maintenance on these cars is the most important thing... forget all about mods and power ups... if you got loose ball joints, and filthy fluids in the car... your just being foolish. its your life you take in your hands when you don't replace worn parts first.

ex.

a guy downtown montreal went and pick up a new GTR, he paid about 14,000 for it from one of those shops... it had a set of trust TD06 turbos.. and was very nicely modded.
the guy at the shop told him..."the rear inner and outter tie rods are worn... you should change them immediatley"... he ignored the warning.. and a week later after driving the car and beaning on it everywhere a rear tie rod let go when he was going about 120km/h on the highway.. and yep, he spun out and wrecked the rear quarter panels of the car (among other things)... car was a write of.

its your choice. but don't bother posting a thread " i wrecked my car".... no one will feel sorry for u if its ur own ignorance lol.

good luck!

[NismoS-tune]

Yes, normally done when cambelt (you guys call it a timing belt), crank pully is removed. Do the intake cam, exhaust cam oilseals at the same time while everything is off.

Kewl, I was thinking it was something that can only be done when the crank is off.. Thanks.

[Kras]

Kewl, I was thinking it was something that can only be done when the crank is off.. Thanks.

wat... cam seals and front crank seal don't require removal of their respective shafts (lol)