Need advice/help winter build!!

[measrR32]

So I wanna do somthin over winter..
What do you guys think and why...
Should I go big single, upgrade twin, or sequential
I want around 600whp no more then that
If you can please say why you suggest that and a rough estimate on how much that setup would be would be greatly appreciated
Current modds on my 91 gtr r32:
R33 engine
N1 oil pump
Gt2860 turbos
Apexi fc commander
Ohlins coilovers
Apexi intake
Hks 740cc injectors
Bigger fuel rail-unknown
R34 fuel pump
Top of my head...

[MattiasJacobs]

You should post some of your current mod's. I'm workin at getting around 500whp and it isn't too friendly on the bank account. If I went for 600 I'd have to do some other major changes like clutch, fuel lines, etc.

[gtrjon]

not another one!!!!! unless you have 20k dont try it

[hozer]

not another one!!!!! unless you have 20k dont try it

+1 600WHP is huge and you can expect to replace every part on your car if you want a manageable, street-able, reliable car. If you have that kind of bank roll or supporting mods already shoot me a PM and I'd be happy to share my build (580WHP) with you.

Stock internals won't hold that power need a built bottom end $5000+

Don't wanna run a built motor with crappy oil pump... Upgrade to tomei +$2000

Big single turbo +$2000

ECU you'll need to make any of it run well $1000+

Random parts of a 20 year old car that will bust with 600WHP $sky is the limit

[measrR32]

not another one!!!!! unless you have 20k dont try it

lol alright well drop all that whats the best route to go single or sequential? Just getting to the Main point of my question

[measrR32]

There my current modds^^

[gtrjon]

i have yet to see a single sequential set up on a rb26

[mikey]

So I wanna do somthin over winter..
What do you guys think and why...
Should I go big single, upgrade twin, or sequential
I want around 600whp no more then that
If you can please say why you suggest that and a rough estimate on how much that setup would be would be greatly appreciated
Current modds on my 91 gtr r32:
R33 engine ---------------------- Keep the stock rods, replace rods bolts with ARP and pistons to your choice (stock have been know to handle 600whp but not recommended)
N1 oil pump ---------------------- Have the oil pump collar installed, keep it under 7.5k rpm and don't miss a shift, you'll be good.
Gt2860 turbos -------------------- Unfortunately I have never seen anyone make 600whp at a sane level of boost with these turbo's, it's expensive but a big single turbo kit will net you a healthy 600whp.
Apexi fc commander ------------ good till a gazzillion whp!
Ohlins coilovers -------------- Good sheet
Apexi intake ---------------- IDK
Hks 740cc injectors -------------- Safe until 700 crank HP
Bigger fuel rail-unknown ------------ No issues. Stock has been ran up until 700hp, if memory serves me right the Mine's R34 uses a modified stock rail (dual entry).
R34 fuel pump --------------- Run a Bosch 044 or an aeromotive 340 intank pump.
Top of my head...------------- don't lose it

If you go for a big single turbo you'll be looking to spend at least 6k

Manifold = $1,500 - $2,500 (depends on manufacturer)
Turbo = $1,500 - $3,500 (depends on size and manufacturer)
Down pipe = $200 - ????? varies, best bet is to get one custom made.
Waste gate = $300 - $1,000 (depends on size and manufacturer)
Intake piping kit = $100 - ???? varies, best bet is to custom make from a universal kit.
Fuel pump = $180 - $200 (depends on manufacturer and supplier)
Fuel line = $150 - $200 (depends on manufacturer and supplier) (stock lines have supported up to 700 crank hp, very risky though)
Harmonic Balancer = $300 - $600 (depends on manufacturer and supplier)
Misc parts = $200 - $500 (depends on what's missing)

Cheap = $4500
Expensive = $8000 plus

HKS T04z kit = $8300 (plus you'll need extra parts not included in the kit)

Those prices are an extremely rough estimate based on the items I have purchased or looked into.

I'm probably missing some parts so you might as well add an extra $1000 to the total to cover any unexpected expenses.

Soooo all in all it's very expensive. I'll tell you what I'd do, I'd crawl into a corner and start crying, that's what I'd do.

On a side note, the most important thing is the harmonic balancer. it's not an option, it is an absolute must. If that thing starts vibrating at 7k rpm you can say good by to the N1 oil pump and more than likely your engine

[NismoS-tune]

I was hoping for a reliable 600whp street/track car and I dont' think I'll get it. I've crossed $60k already. If I would have bought a new 5L mustange, and extra 6-10 grand would get me 600whp+ reliably lol.
I'm sure you can make 600whp on less than 20k, just wouldn't last long.


But seriously, you don't need much else to reach 600whp. You'll need bigger injectors on pump gas I'd say, bigger fuel pump, maybe some nos... lots of it.

[measrR32]

Alright thanks guy took all your advice into consideration, I'm down to spend the money, but over time, I will first work on getting the car to take the power first thanks

[xcye]

If you are considering Tomei/AM Oil Pump, Oil Pan Extension, Crank Oil Drive Fix, Harmonic Balancer, Oil Cooler/Relocation etc, then I recommend to do a complete dry sump for a little bit more, if not the same, money.

[mikey]

You don't need to do anything special to achieve 600hp reliably with the RB26.

This is how I look at it;

The block, crank(/w collar or r33), rods and head are all good for 600hp

The rod bolts, pistons, oil pump and water pump should to be replaced when going above 500hp

As far as I am concerned you should be able to pick up all the necessary parts for a under 5 grand.

Pistons $800 - $1000
Rod bolts $100 - $150
Oil pump $1000-$1800
Oil pan baffle $200 - $500
Water pump $150 - $250
Crank damper $600 - $700 (can sort of be counted as it is required)

should be more or less between $3750 - $4400, I also do not count labour in an engine rebuild as there are to many variables.

the above items should see you a reliable street/track car, I mean, not every weekend + daily driver reliable but at least last you a few years of random tracking and street use. However, there are a few catches to all this.

First,
You must have a very good tune, this is the absolute most important. I don't care how strong your engine is, if it has severe detonation it will blow up, it's not a question of if but of when. This is actually true for all engines, nothing is going to last forever.

Second,
Don't over rev the engine to oblivion, 7.5k will suffice. If you search regarding oil pump failures 9/10 were cause by over rev and/or missing a shift. Put it this way, under normal circumstances there isn't a lot mechanical pressure on the pump gear just centripetal force. faster it spins the more it want's to fly into pieces. This is also true for the rods, high rpms tend to stretch the rods not break them, I personally have never seen nor heard of anyone snapping a standard rb26 rod that came from a well tuned engine, even at high HP outputs.

Third, don't miss a shift at high RPM's. This goes without saying, missing a shift can put an enormous amount of force on the engine. Potentially spinning a rod bearing, stretching the rods/bolts, shattering the oil pump gear or worse, all of them.

It all has to do with the tune and how you drive your car, just keep in mind that there's not a single engine that will last for ever.

So to sum it all up shell out 5k for the engine and another 5k-8k for a Turbo setup and you'll be golden.

[mikey]

+1 600WHP is huge and you can expect to replace every part on your car if you want a manageable, street-able, reliable car. If you have that kind of bank roll or supporting mods already shoot me a PM and I'd be happy to share my build (580WHP) with you.

Stock internals won't hold that power need a built bottom end $5000+

Don't wanna run a built motor with crappy oil pump... Upgrade to tomei +$2000

Big single turbo +$2000

ECU you'll need to make any of it run well $1000+

Random parts of a 20 year old car that will bust with 600WHP $sky is the limit

Hmmm, I missed this post, however I feel compelled to reply to it.


What is wrong with you people? how in the world can you say it costs 20k to convert it to a single turbo??? Have any of you actually done a single conversion? Because I have and it didn't cost me anywhere near 20k, yes I went the cheap route but even if I was to go out and buy a FullRace Manifold and all that jazz it still wouldn't be near 10k, more like 6-7k.

Please tell me the difference other than exterior parts (mani, turbo and down pipe) in cost to build than that of a 600hp twin turbo does, does Nissan charge more for their Nismo oil pump because it's going on a single turbo instead of a twin? how about ATI and their super damper or ARP and their rod bolts? As far as I know those parts are still required for any build regardless of the amount of turbo's.

Also, do you have anything to back up your claims that the stock bottom end won't hold 600hp + hp?? here's a nice little thread on GTROC regarding stock rods http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/67005-hav...en-conrod.html As you'll notice, there is only one person with a "bent" rb26 rod.

[Dragon Humper]

FYI, I am sporting a stock dampner and a stock oil pump. I have been reving the motor to 8500 for 3 seasons now and missed about 5 shifts into 3rd gear (motor and granny still in good shape) so you needn't be too worried about that stuff. Just run good oil and keep the level high and you will be fine.

Realisticly though, 600whp is about 700 at the crank so you are hoping to push it pretty far. I am about 800 at the crank and have the second biggest turbo there is for an RB with 1000cc squirters and the full Trust kit to go with the turbo. I would say just push the turbos you have now to the limit and be happy with that, and make sure you have 94 octane in the tank.



Jon.

[gtrjon]

Hmmm, I missed this post, however I feel compelled to reply to it.


What is wrong with you people? how in the world can you say it costs 20k to convert it to a single turbo??? Have any of you actually done a single conversion? Because I have and it didn't cost me anywhere near 20k, yes I went the cheap route but even if I was to go out and buy a FullRace Manifold and all that jazz it still wouldn't be near 10k, more like 6-7k.

Please tell me the difference other than exterior parts (mani, turbo and down pipe) in cost to build than that of a 600hp twin turbo does, does Nissan charge more for their Nismo oil pump because it's going on a single turbo instead of a twin? how about ATI and their super damper or ARP and their rod bolts? As far as I know those parts are still required for any build regardless of the amount of turbo's.

Also, do you have anything to back up your claims that the stock bottom end won't hold 600hp + hp?? here's a nice little thread on GTROC regarding stock rods http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/67005-hav...en-conrod.html As you'll notice, there is only one person with a "bent" rb26 rod.

when i say 20+k i should of said to do it right and reliable with QUALITY parts expect to spend 20+k. this is what i got for my 20k
Tomei procams 270 duration 10.25mm lift
Supertech dual valve springs with titanium retainers
supertech valve guides/seals
Greddy Timing belt
Arp Head studs
tomei 87mm 1.2mm head gasket (and full tomei metal gasket kit)
Oem nissan gasket kit
tomei adj cam gears
5 angle valve grind!

Turbo Kit:
Borg Warner S300x 91-79 t4 turbo with a .91ar twin scroll exhaust housing
Tial 60mm wastegate
Twin HKS ssqv3 limited black edition bovs
6boost true t4 twin scroll equal length manifold!

Fuel:
tomei 11mm fuel rail
precision 1000cc injectors
Custom swirl pot fed by stock gtr fuel pump
Inline aeromotive a1000 fuel pump
All stainless steel braided fuel feed and return lines from the pump to the rail
aeromotive a1000 fuel pressure regulator

Drive train/suspensionweakest link of build)
clutch is a os giken twinbdp440
Zeal coilovers
nismo tension rods
ams upper control arms
larger front and rear sway bars
nismo engine/tranny mounts
solid rear subframe bushings

Cooling:
Trust 30 row oil cooler with oil filter relocation with all ss braided lines
koyo aluminum rad
twin 10" electric fans
aem water meth kit


also i feel the biggest portion your not mentioning is machining. i over looked it in my budget and ended up costing me $2000.