Power on pump gas???

[GTRADDICT]

To add to what I said before, PON is "pump octane", RON in "research octane" and MON is "motor octane". The reason why research octane is so misleading is that the lab conditions that they use to come up with that # are quite mild and unrealistic (but a standard that is the same all over the world). Kind of like the mileage ratings on a vehicle from the manufacturer, only an act of god will get you the same result in the real world. Motor octane is also a "lab derived" number but with the worst case environment used (also a world standard).

That is why you can have 3 98 RON octane fuels and have 3 different PON #'s. Think of it as the base of the fuel giving you the RON and the additives given to it pumping up the MON.


500hp is a cakewalk on an RB26, all you need is some forged pistons, ARP bolts in the rods and the oil pump drive handled. You don't even need any headwork, the stock head and cams are fine. With some N1 turbos you've got an easy 500hp with a motor that can go 10 years without a problem. The key is the assembly, if the builder has his head up his ass it doesn't matter how much money you spend on "upgrades".



Jon.

^THIS!!!

Most of the big engine fails on the forum are pretty much linked to assembly. You dont see this as much in the V8 croud because they are more experience and older(They've thinkering in engines before they could walk). *Not saying v8 are stronger, they will fail if assembly is off* The RB26 is not as fragile or mystical as a lot of people think.

Nick

Sucky assembly(JDM) / Total JDM shops > Sucky assembly(v8) / Total v8 shops So more chance to get sucky JDM service in canada than sucky v8 service

[NismoS-tune]

A few years back I hit 300whp reliably with a budget of $30k. I'm hoping to do 500whp MEGA reliably next year without going too much over 2x that cost. Yes, it's a race car haha. 500whp and little budget normally =fail.

You can make 500whp, pump gas on less than $15k worth of parts yes. There's guys in the US doing that on stock engines ($6k build) and still running.

[Skym]

Stock RB26 conrods are said to be forged I beam (just need to be crack tested, Xrayed?, etc to check for flaws, shot penned if you reuse them). Also as long as you keep close to stock revlimiters (don't put excessive inertial load on conrods via increasing rpm, which snaps conrods and puts hole in side of block) they work with stronger ARP conrod bolts. You use boost level to make up for lack of revs (benefit of having a turbocharged engine) and keep peak hp at around 6000rpm.

[MeatSedation]

500hp is a cakewalk on an RB26, all you need is some forged pistons, ARP bolts in the rods and the oil pump drive handled. You don't even need any headwork, the stock head and cams are fine. With some N1 turbos you've got an easy 500hp with a motor that can go 10 years without a problem. The key is the assembly, if the builder has his head up his ass it doesn't matter how much money you spend on "upgrades".

Jon.

^THIS!!!

Most of the big engine fails on the forum are pretty much linked to assembly. You dont see this as much in the V8 croud because they are more experience and older(They've thinkering in engines before they could walk). *Not saying v8 are stronger, they will fail if assembly is off* The RB26 is not as fragile or mystical as a lot of people think.

Nick

Sucky assembly(JDM) / Total JDM shops > Sucky assembly(v8) / Total v8 shops So more chance to get sucky JDM service in canada than sucky v8 service

I plan on handling the teardown, inspection and reassembly. I'm already trained on how to take down a motor, I just have to ask; is there something that I need to watch out for that might not be in the service manuals on tear down/reassembly?

A few years back I hit 300whp reliably with a budget of $30k. I'm hoping to do 500whp MEGA reliably next year without going too much over 2x that cost. Yes, it's a race car haha. 500whp and little budget normally =fail.

You can make 500whp, pump gas on less than $15k worth of parts yes. There's guys in the US doing that on stock engines ($6k build) and still running.

Man, I didn't think it would cost me 30-60k to get a motor rock solid! You gotta give me a parts list for your higher end build!

Stock RB26 conrods are said to be forged I beam (just need to be crack tested, Xrayed?, etc to check for flaws, shot penned if you reuse them). Also as long as you keep close to stock revlimiters (don't put excessive inertial load on conrods via increasing rpm, which snaps conrods and puts hole in side of block) they work with stronger ARP conrod bolts. You use boost level to make up for lack of revs (benefit of having a turbocharged engine) and keep peak hp at around 6000rpm.

I think i might replace the pistons as im guessing there is enought wear on the cylinder walls to warrant a fresh bore/hone. Rods might get replaced too. Are there any benefits to a full counter crank on a 500 HP build? I'm thinking it might allow for a higher redline if it was thrown in with some other goodies.

[cortexx]

maybe $30k - $60k if you include the original car purchase

[knate]

No bashing intended... buut NismoS-tune loves baller parts lol

[NismoS-tune]

maybe $30k - $60k if you include the original car purchase

it's not including the car purchase (15k) but it's not just the engine. The whole car haha.

Baller for the win. I find I have more pride looking at it than driving it since it doesn't run ever hahaha

[gtrjon]

Ill update this thread in a few weeks as i am ditching meth and going race gas. I am going to do a 94 pump tune shooting for 550ish awhp on pump before we throw in some c16 and crank her up

[Skym]

I think i might replace the pistons as im guessing there is enought wear on the cylinder walls to warrant a fresh bore/hone. Rods might get replaced too.

H beam is usually not that much better than I beam (from what I've noticed, they snap at slightly higher rpm than I beam and put a hole in side of block), so still keep revs down. From what I understand, lighter H beam conrods + lighter pistons are meant to reduce stress on crank, conrod bolts at same rpm (more reliable).

Are there any benefits to a full counter crank on a 500 HP build? I'm thinking it might allow for a higher redline if it was thrown in with some other goodies.

Most use stock crank up to 1200hp (at engine) or so, where you would start to think about replacing it.

There are benefits to using full counter crank -

http://www.tomei-p.co.jp/_2003web-catalogue/e062_crankshaft.html

But they don't make them for RB26 anymore -

http://www.tomei-p.co.jp/_2003web-catalogue/e063_crank.html

Look at the high reving, high hp EVO builds, as are using high end conrods (not cheap) -

http://forums.evolutionm.net/evo-dyno-tuning-results/447351-highest-hp-4g63-engine-2007-a-8.html

and (talk about inertia forces, etc and conrod design) -

http://forums.evolutionm.net/evo-dyno-tuning-results/447351-highest-hp-4g63-engine-2007-a-11.html

Look at the pistons, can't compare to forged or stock (it does look similar to a F1 piston with design) -

http://forums.evolutionm.net/evo-dyno-tuning-results/447351-highest-hp-4g63-engine-2007-a-13.html

Also balance of the engine is critical. I wouldn't be using stock damper (use ATI, ROSS, etc dampers) with aftermarket internals (forged pistons, H beam conrods, stock crank), aftermarket flywheel that get balanced together.

Some go to the extreme of custom billet main caps, custom girdle plate to strengthen bottom of block (to stop block from cracking due to harmonics) -

http://www.spoolimports.com/spool-billet-main-caps

Evo custom billet blocks, as shown in link below go to the extreme of using part of block as the girdle, main caps (custom block is made in Australia and I remember reading somewhere that they do make custom RB26 blocks) -

http://forums.evolutionm.net/evo-dyno-tuning-results/447351-highest-hp-4g63-engine-2007-a-15.html

Here's the company in Australia who makes the custom billet blocks -

http://www.bulletcylinderheads.com.au/billetblocks.php

Mentioned on this page -

http://forums.evolutionm.net/evo-dyno-tuning-results/447351-highest-hp-4g63-engine-2007-a-16.html

I noticed it's similar (design with girdle, mains caps, etc) to what's used on R35GTR engine block.

[91SkylineGts-t]

im running 720cc injectors, borgwarner s400 turbo, 50mm wastegate, twin 340 fuel pumps, adjustable fpr at 35psi, power fc d jetro, apexi avcr boost controller, wideband and tomie gasket set. stock intake, stock intercooler, stock bottom end. making 480 at 15psi just fine

[gtown69]

At first on my GTR I used race gas at high levels, but now I run 30 plus psi on pump gas(just under 800whp) this with no meth kit.

My civic ran 10s at over 140mph on pump gas with no meth kit.

As for my Mustang I always use race gas. I have a different tuner for this car and he wants me to always run c-16.

Listen to your tuner and understand that all these cars above also have fully built set-ups.

I also know a lot of Vette guys that run 1000hp plus on pump gas but with meth kits. There's also a yellow c-4 Vette here in Toronto making around 980whp on 94 octane with no meth kit.

[MeatSedation]

I think I've decided on my build. Thanks for all the repies, you guys were a lot of help.

[LuckyGTR]

im actually running 616.9 whp at 22.5 psi on pump gaz no meth,


my friend runs 700WHP on his 300zx TT and 675 pound of torke on pump gaz at 23 psi ,


pump gaz is pretty good , just needs a good tune n good parts , to run high boost level on pump gaz!!!