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  • N1 blocks

    Hey guys just putting this out there I ordered an N1 block today at Nissan they are pre pay only but the rob at mills nissan got me a wicked deal $1995.00 taxes in and all witch is a lot better then nissans suggested retail on $2500. He said to hand out his card with my name written on the back and he will extend this deal to others. He said there is a dying market for stuff like this he wants to do what he can to help us out. So I thought I would tell GTRC members of this hope this helps people

  • #2
    1500 on nismoparts. Yours may be cheaper after customs.
    Dang! You got shocks, pegs... Lucky! You ever take it off any sweet jumps?

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    • #3
      Just so you know, many of us prefer "seasoned" stock blocks over a new N1 block.
      Nick

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      • #4
        what dyou mean?---^^
        My sky got 99 problems but to find bitches ain't one

        Once you go sky; Parts you're going to buy...

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        • #5
          Originally posted by Fred-R View Post
          what dyou mean?---^^
          It means its been used, the longer the better. As engines are being used the heat cycling hardens and stabilizes the block.
          92 BNR32
          92 RNN14 12.92 @ 105mph (SOLD)
          86 Sierra Cosworth RS (clone)

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          • #6
            I've dealt with mills as well. Apparently he has a catalog with strictly jdm Nissan parts. Nismo as well. I got my front lower ball joints from him. They arrived the day after I ordered them. Excellent service and knowledgable on skylines.


            Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
            Last edited by Voodoo_ChildR32; 11-13-2012, 09:41 PM.
            1989 R32 Skyline GTR SOLD!!!!

            The key to immortality is first living a life worth remembering.
            -Bruce Lee

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            • #7
              Yeah he is e mailing me that JDM parts book

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              • #8
                Originally posted by Blackcossie View Post
                It means its been used, the longer the better. As engines are being used the heat cycling hardens and stabilizes the block.
                I can see the stabilizing (low temp cycling softens the alloy structure and diffuses internal material stresses) but does it really harden?

                Asking because in theory low delta (high to low temp difference) cycling makes metals softer and more resilient to high energy imputs (more malleable), not harder. Harder would require (extreme) high heat / low heat shock (quench).
                1992 BNR32 SKYLINE GTR

                Comment


                • #9
                  Its a little misleading the way I worded that statement. The whole block doesn't harden, just the cylinder walls. The extreme temperatures of combustion and the coolant reducing the cylinder wall temp every cycle is what I am referring too. Seasoned blocks are coveted for there ability to maintain shape in the cylinder walls resulting in more horsepower and a longer life.

                  Heat cycling defiantly makes the block stronger as it is stress relieving the Iron which reduce areas of potential failure but the most important result is dimensional stability.

                  Originally posted by Marus92 View Post
                  I can see the stabilizing (low temp cycling softens the alloy structure and diffuses internal material stresses) but does it really harden?

                  Asking because in theory low delta (high to low temp difference) cycling makes metals softer and more resilient to high energy imputs (more malleable), not harder. Harder would require (extreme) high heat / low heat shock (quench).
                  92 BNR32
                  92 RNN14 12.92 @ 105mph (SOLD)
                  86 Sierra Cosworth RS (clone)

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by MattiasJacobs View Post
                    1500 on nismoparts. Yours may be cheaper after customs.
                    You should inquire about shipping like I did. It's about $1000 (they calculate the shipping from Japan and then there's the customs


                    As for stock blocks, there's some controversy there. I along with other users around the world have had cracked stock blocks which reasons were mostly due to ARP head stud torque being to high to lower nickel content making the block weaker.

                    N1 supposedly has more nickel but who knows.

                    $2000 is expensive considering They could be had for $1200 7 years ago when I first started buying parts and chose to save money. Now here I am, a fried stock block.
                    Last edited by NismoS-tune; 11-14-2012, 12:56 AM.
                    Black 1991 GTR. Serious garage stand mantle/parts car.
                    Black 1990 Pulsar GTiR. Sold
                    Silver 1989 GTR. Sold
                    Black 2010 Subaru WRX. Weekend warrior. Sold.
                    Black 2013 F-150 FX4 ecoboost. Daily driver.
                    White 2012 Ford Explorer Limited. Family wagon.

                    Sorry for my offensive comments, I r socially retard.

                    start by having A ROLLING GTR then we talk u ******* mofo funzy little *****
                    lol

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      There is no doubt that new vs new the N1 is the obvious choice and for an extreme HP application as well. But most people on this forum would benefit from the stability of a seasoned 05U block rather than the strength of a N1.

                      If price is no object, you could send out a new N1 for stress relieving and completely re-machine the block afterwards.


                      Originally posted by NismoS-tune View Post
                      You should inquire about shipping like I did. It's about $1000 (they calculate the shipping from Japan and then there's the customs


                      As for stock blocks, there's some controversy there. I along with other users around the world have had cracked stock blocks which reasons were mostly due to ARP head stud torque being to high to lower nickel content making the block weaker.

                      N1 supposedly has more nickel but who knows.

                      $2000 is expensive considering They could be had for $1200 7 years ago when I first started buying parts and chose to save money. Now here I am, a fried stock block.
                      92 BNR32
                      92 RNN14 12.92 @ 105mph (SOLD)
                      86 Sierra Cosworth RS (clone)

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by mexi193 View Post
                        Yeah he is e mailing me that JDM parts book
                        Lemme know if ya want anything, I get wholesale pricing on everything he sells.

                        Ball joints are $250 a pair, I got all 4 for $390 tax in.
                        Last edited by Voodoo_ChildR32; 11-14-2012, 02:36 AM.
                        1989 R32 Skyline GTR SOLD!!!!

                        The key to immortality is first living a life worth remembering.
                        -Bruce Lee

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Only seasoned 05U block I would even think about using for a high HP engine is the older r32 (short snout) blocks. These do have the same nickel content as the N1 and as others have stated gets seasoned over time.

                          I dont know what its like over there, but here its usually a case of "when will my block crack" rather then "will my block crack". We use to have an engine room full of dead 05U blocks. Have never ever seen an N1 block crack!

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            I've cracked an N1 block.

                            They crack like any other block.

                            Although a new block is like starting off with a clean sheet of paper, I personally put a lot of stock in a seasoned block. Choice between a new N1 or seasoned 05U I would choose the latter every time, so to me, used N1 long blocks in running shape are where it's at.

                            To each their own. There's no "wrong" way as long as it holds together for your use.
                            Nick

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              My cracked block is an older R32 short snout and the nickel content doesn't matter when it comes to cracks. What is odd that all the blocks I've heard of cracking were running ARP head studs which are 45ft/lbs more torque to install... hmm. Mine cracked after 1200km. Another local guy didn't last the break in tune. Different builders.

                              Originally posted by markdett View Post
                              Only seasoned 05U block I would even think about using for a high HP engine is the older r32 (short snout) blocks. These do have the same nickel content as the N1 and as others have stated gets seasoned over time.

                              I dont know what its like over there, but here its usually a case of "when will my block crack" rather then "will my block crack". We use to have an engine room full of dead 05U blocks. Have never ever seen an N1 block crack!
                              Black 1991 GTR. Serious garage stand mantle/parts car.
                              Black 1990 Pulsar GTiR. Sold
                              Silver 1989 GTR. Sold
                              Black 2010 Subaru WRX. Weekend warrior. Sold.
                              Black 2013 F-150 FX4 ecoboost. Daily driver.
                              White 2012 Ford Explorer Limited. Family wagon.

                              Sorry for my offensive comments, I r socially retard.

                              start by having A ROLLING GTR then we talk u ******* mofo funzy little *****
                              lol

                              Comment

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