Hay all was looking at a GTR on the classifieds on here and theres a R32 GTR and he has absolutely no service history. Is this very high risk purchase as I assume it it or do most cars that land from Japan dont have the service history? He is asking $9k any thoughts or find something else?
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1998 Saab 9000 CSE Turbo (SOLD)
2007 Porsche Boxster (SOLD)
1987 Alfa Romeo Milano Gold (SOLD)
2001 Audi S4 Bi-Turbo (SOLD)
2009 Nissan Sentra SE-R Spec V (DD)
In the market for a R32 GTR
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Most of us started with no known history. Just start fresh with new everything (for service replacement parts)Black 1991 GTR. Serious garage stand mantle/parts car.
Black 1990 Pulsar GTiR. Sold
Silver 1989 GTR. Sold
Black 2010 Subaru WRX. Weekend warrior. Sold.
Black 2013 F-150 FX4 ecoboost. Daily driver.
White 2012 Ford Explorer Limited. Family wagon.
Sorry for my offensive comments, I r socially retard.
start by having A ROLLING GTR then we talk u ******* mofo funzy little *****
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Like others said above, replace everything up until the km it has travelled.
That's TPS, o2 sensor, cambelt, waterpump, idle, tensioner bearings for cambelt + mounting bolts, cam seals x2, crank oil seals on front, rear of crank (known to leak on high km engines). If in doubt, refresh engine (should be done every 100,000kms) where these are replaced. Also if have the $$$ refresh gearbox, diffheads, auxilaries, replace hoses, looms, bushes on subframes, arms, etc and replace all fluids.
Minimum, replace all the fluids, filters and check for leaks.Last edited by Skym; 03-05-2013, 05:53 AM.RESPONSE MONSTER
The most epic signature ever "epic".
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Originally posted by Skym View PostLike others said above, replace everything up until the km it has travelled.
That's TPS, o2 sensor, cambelt, waterpump, idle, tensioner bearings for cambelt + mounting bolts, cam seals x2, crank oil seals on front, rear of crank (known to leak on high km engines). If in doubt, refresh engine (should be done every 100,000kms) where these are replaced. Also if have the $$$ refresh gearbox, diffheads, auxilaries, replace hoses, looms, bushes on subframes, arms, etc and replace all fluids.
Minimum, replace all the fluids, filters and check for leaks.
U don't have to do all that.. It'll all come out in the wash if u decide to buy it..
Check for signs that its been regularly maintained..
Look at the cam belt cover(or around the area) for a sticker with the Kms on it when the timing belt was changed
Mine is on my fan shroud, and is in Japanese..if there is a sticker somewhere with a number that is around 100k +/- 20k then chances are most of the 100k services were done at this point..
If the guy will let u, take it to a trusted mechanic to have a good look at it, throw the mechanic like a hundred bux to give er the ol' stink eye and he'll be able to tell u what's what. If the 100km service hasn't been done then u can use it as a bargaining chip when it comes to buying the car. If it hasn't been done, and u still want the car then come in low
That's just my opinion Good luck
Skylines are bad ass01 Chevrolet Maliboom-boom (winter BEATER)
93, 94, 96 Toyota Supras
95 R33 GTS-T
04 R44 Raven1 helicopter
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Sometimes cambelt is not done correctly (replacing oil seals, mounting bolts for bearings, waterpump, etc). Same with bushes, etc, that by that amount of km, they need replacing.
Biggest lesson I have learnt is to just refresh engine if done over 100,000km, as not much more than replacing those parts (end up replacing camcover seals, headgasket that can fail easily, etc and all of those gaskets are in the Nissan repair gasket kit that is used to rebuild engine) and solve the short oilpump drive problem (R32 GTR RB26 engine), etc at same time.Last edited by Skym; 03-05-2013, 10:38 AM.RESPONSE MONSTER
The most epic signature ever "epic".
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I paid less than that for mine with the engine refresh already done.
Paint & body looks in great shape at least from the pics, aside from the horrendous hovercraft rear bumper.
He says all fluids changed so thats good....new tires is a plus..
AFAIK, R34 GTR coilovers don't fit R32, so find out what they really are.
4wd/2wd switch? look for signs of it being drifted, this is VERY hard on parts, check all the suspension links, tierods, bushings, (& clutch if you can.)
Drive it good, drive it hard.
Check for the notorious RB26 hesitation/sputtering, and power delivery/boost. That's a good indication of maintenance to all the sensors, plugs, coilpacks...etc.
Compression test is a MUST if you get serious and everything else checks out.
Good luck!'89 GTST - SOLD
'92 GTR
'94 Mitsubishi Pajero 2.8TD LWB
'12 Mazda3 Sport Skyactiv
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