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Head coming off, what else should I do?

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  • Head coming off, what else should I do?

    Long story short had some valve float, bent 2 exhuast valves on cylinder 6 now the head is coming off. Kind of on a budget but still want piece of mind.

    Going with Brian Crower because there priced reasonably, stainless valves, spring and retainer kit and valve guides. Also getting cometic HG.
    Is there anything else I should consider while the head is off? Cam wise I have type B poncams and gears which is good enough for now.

    Thanks in advance.

  • #3
    I would fit Tomei or Cosworth headgasket. Cosworth should be cheaper and has a thick seal around cylinders. Check, skim head to make sure it's flat.

    HKS valve seals (said to be better than stock valve seals) or I think Naprec sell upgraded valve seals.

    If have new cams, fit new lifters (they are bed in together). Also new shims for lifters.
    Last edited by Skym; 07-16-2013, 01:23 AM.
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    • #4
      Not sure if your doing the work yourself or not but to add to Skym's post about the shims make sure you check all the valve clearances to see if you need shims... the machine shop that did my rebuild needed +1 tomei lifter buckets because of my cams base circle being smaller for clearance on high lift... its a long process of torquing down the cams and checking all the valves then he would take small amounts off the end of the valve to make everything perfect retorque check again etc... he said he had to do it 5 or 6 times to get them all bang on. Glad your going with new guides something i should have done. Another thing you could do is setup the rear of the head for extra oil drain back to the pan, not sure what kind of oil pump you have but its worth a thought. Maybe select one stage stiffer springs then your going to set your rev limiter at for piece of mind.

      Hope some of that makes sense just having my morning coffee

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      • #5
        Make sure you don't get oversize valves because the cost of installing and machining them in will blow your budget wide open.

        Also, write yourself a sticky note for future reference (should you make a mistake that causes a failure): "I did the work myself to save money".

        I always get asked why my build has taken 4 years and though I want to blame all the delays on dealers and their delays, deep inside, I rember that I chose to do most of the work myself while having a full time job and a family to raise. Sure my build would be $2-10k more but t would be running 3 years ago.

        Anyway, I was on a budget, spent it all on cool parts and no skilled labour. Now $20k over budget, going to 3rd engine, 2nd built.





        Oh, get a tomei oil gallery orifice reducer too
        Last edited by NismoS-tune; 07-16-2013, 11:49 AM.
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        • #6
          Thanks for the responses, I've decided to get the work done professionally, no time and space right now and I want the car on the road asap.

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          • #7
            good choice

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            • #8
              if you are running stock head bolts I would probably change to ARP

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              • #9
                Originally posted by gezed View Post
                if you are running stock head bolts I would probably change to ARP
                yep did that

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