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Rb 26 600whp build

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  • Rb 26 600whp build

    Hey everyone I'm in the middle of buying parts for my 600whp build and could use a little or a lot of help/ suggestions on what all should be done : replaced on my Gtr .

    I put together a list and it includes

    Cp pistons 86.5mm
    Eagal rods
    Arp head studs
    Acl main bearings 0.25
    Acl rod bearings 0.25
    Tomie 1.5 mm head gasket
    Oem gasket set
    Tomie 264 lift cams
    N1 water pump
    N1 oil pump
    Tomie manifolds
    Devided dumps
    Hks hi power exhaust ( already have )
    Rc 880 cc injectors ( already have )
    Power FC d jetro ( already have )
    Water meth injection ( already have )

    Tomie timing belt and pulleys ( already have )
    R33 crank if needed might use r32 with jun collar if it check out okay form shop
    R

    Also have nismo turbos I believe there kinda like the n1s
    But I don't think ill get 600whp with them

    Any info or suggestion will be greatly appreciated since this is my first major build

  • #2
    i did 616 whp on stock bottom end bro ,
    tomei head gasket 1.2 mm
    tomei 260 , 264 dont exit , (hks 264)
    and go single turbo , twin turbo suck ,

    n1 oil pump suck , my friend just broken one , (i suggest tomei , this is wat i did , the best)

    i did 616 whp , on a single turbo presision 62-66 , at 22,5 psi wit 260 cams , full boost at 4700 rpm , crazy flat torke , over 400 torke from 4700 too 8200 rpm ,

    stock piston , stock rods.

    ACL bering i had , arp head stud , tomei 1.2 gasket , arp rod bolts,
    thats about it


    here is the dyno video
    Last edited by LuckyGTR; 08-31-2013, 01:29 PM.


    865 whp RB32 , R32 GTR , THE LUCKY GTR *SUMMER DRAG BEAST*
    2013 Rams Laramie LongHorn 3500 Crew cab *Daily Driver*

    Comment


    • #3
      Why not keep the bottom end as it is (unless it failed). Do a compression test and go from there. Quite a few of us started modifying our engine and have had nothing but issues while spending big bucks. If your stock engine is stout, why not leave it as it and focus on bolt ons? What turbo are you going with?
      I recommend EFR if you have extra money or precision if you still want a badass turbo without the more expensive cost.

      the most important thing is finding the shop you want to use and discuss what they want to do.

      I'm on my 3rd engine and the new shop I am dealing with has a good laugh at the parts I'm using which I dind't think were so bad. They're now trying to change my mind of stuff (such as transmission, turbo, ECU, brakes, so on...)

      If you're doing it yourself, prepare for a lot of fun. I'm been building my 500whp gtr for 4 years and it's seen 4400 kms and $60k as I wanted somehting that was sick looking, fast and reliable. I should have just bolted on parts till it failed rather than tearing it up and replacing everything. The last 2 shops I used were ok but weren't focused on time (both had my stuff over a year each).

      So, find a shop, decide on a budget limit and make a plan. 600whp is doable on a gtr but it's not gonna be a show car and reliable unless you pump time and big money in it. I'd show you my setup but it's top secret... first of this kind of setup in north america (2 other similar in the world but were prototypes of the owners/testers)! but not ridiculously powerful like Lucky haha, just 550whp for track/show.
      Last edited by Bruizer; 08-31-2013, 01:55 PM.
      No build thread.
      1991 nissan
      El terror

      "Built not bought" sooner or later = "broken not running"

      Comment


      • #4
        Thanks for the imput guys . I was running the car and spun a main bearing that's why I'm doing the rebuild . My budget is 6000$ . I never thought u could get 600whp on stock internals . But mine are broke anyways just waiting to see if my crank is good . Will the jun collar work well enough to solve the famous oil pump failure.

        I also want to stay with twins so I don't have to spend a lot of money on a manifold and I like to keep my spool as low as possiable .

        Also luckygtr what are u running in ur dash it looks kinda cool

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        • #5
          I think he's got one of the Haltech LCD dashes: http://www.haltech.com/product/acces...ta-aquisition/
          Originally posted by goodine17 View Post
          Also luckygtr what are u running in ur dash it looks kinda cool

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          • #6
            The N1 oil pump is fine, just run either Spool or Reimax gears in the pump with the cover bolts torqued properly and Loctited. You don't need the huge flow of a Tomei pump with your setup and would be a huge waste of money. You cam make 600who easily with that set up, you just need a machinist who knows what they are doing.




            Jon.
            Why don't you come over to MySpace and Twitter my Yahoo untill I Google all over your Facebook.

            1990 GTR Drag Special T88H34D 11.24 @ 127.55mph at only 1.2bar...... officially. SOLD

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            • #7
              i made well over 600 on an N1 pump. Just fine. Use Reimax gears and you will be fine. It ends up coming down to bottom end balancing. Spend the money, buy an ATI super Damper and make sure your flywheel is completely balanced. As for twins, they suck. Get rid of that clutter and 600 on N1's is a stretch. Ill sell you a Precision 6265 1.00 AR. Let me know.
              Raw Brokerage, Your RB specialists
              R.I.D motorsports
              "KRANKY" R32 #theroadto9's

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              • #8
                600 on -9s. Spool monster. Did it, and it was glorious. 1.2 bar at 3800rpm.

                Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk 2

                TROL

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                • #9
                  Okay thanks a lot guys I'm going to start ordering parts . Should I Spend the extra money and just get a new r33 crank or just re use my r32 with the oil pump collar . As for drive line I have low km stock gear box with an is giken twin how is the rear end going to hold up with this kind of power same goes for the front .

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Buy oil pump collar that works with the oil pump you are using. If JUN collar, use JUN oil pump. If Nitto collar, use Nitto oil pump, etc. If not sure what works, get a custom oil pump collar made to make sure the clearances between oil pump gears, collar are correct (a problem with some oil pump collars and causes engine failure).

                    N1 oil pump with Reimax gears works with stock sump, stockish internals (N1 pistons that from memory have the stronger ringlands) and I wouldn't use it above 500hp at engine (reliable hp for a 24 hour race). There is a Group-A spec oil pump they use for the forged 650hp Group-A RB26 engines (Tomei oil pump is the same type of oil pump with more pressure and more oil is moved around engine and the Tomei oil pump is better because it has externally adjustable pressure and is around the same amount of $$$ as the Group-A oil pump).

                    Tomei oil pump + oil restrictors and enlarged sump capacity (due to oil pump moving more oil) would be the go with fully forged internals and the hp level you want. Accusump to be 100% sure there's no low oil pressure while cornering (high G's, above 1.4G) that could uncover pickup and take out the engine. Most tuners recommend the Tomei oil pump, etc for big hp fully forged engine builds.

                    The 2x different specs of engine I mentioned above are here (one is a RB28 to reduce lag with Tomei oil pump, enlarged sump, etc and the other a low budget build with forged pistons only, N1 oil pump with Reimax gears, etc) -

                    1968年にチューナーで日産ワークスドライバーでもあった鈴木誠一が城北ライダースの仲間とともに「東名自動車」を設立し、2018年で創業50年を迎えます。そう、東名は「車好き」「チューニング好き」が集まって設立された会社です。


                    Here's another showing the above link Phase 1 specs in more detail (injector size, etc to suit, intake gaskets, etc), roughly 480hp (1ps = 1 US hp) + boost level (good to 500hp on racetrack, but they show 480ps/hp) -

                    1968年にチューナーで日産ワークスドライバーでもあった鈴木誠一が城北ライダースの仲間とともに「東名自動車」を設立し、2018年で創業50年を迎えます。そう、東名は「車好き」「チューニング好き」が集まって設立された会社です。


                    The guides for building reliable RB26 engines are there (what you should upgrade, etc). The N1 waterpump is usually track only and Tomei build their engines for road, track use (drive to racetrack for track day and race type of thing).
                    Last edited by Skym; 08-31-2013, 10:47 PM.
                    RESPONSE MONSTER

                    The most epic signature ever "epic".

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by gtrkrauss View Post
                      i made well over 600 on an N1 pump. Just fine. Use Reimax gears and you will be fine. It ends up coming down to bottom end balancing. Spend the money, buy an ATI super Damper and make sure your flywheel is completely balanced. As for twins, they suck. Get rid of that clutter and 600 on N1's is a stretch. Ill sell you a Precision 6265 1.00 AR. Let me know.
                      twins suck........ lol

                      Here's some monstrous single turbo eater.

                      No build thread.
                      1991 nissan
                      El terror

                      "Built not bought" sooner or later = "broken not running"

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        give up now you wont make 600whp on a 6k budget with a block with rod knock. I wish someone gave me this advice before i started my build. Honestly with the condition of your motor id budget 15k without any fancy parts to do it right. just for some perspective Machining $2k, ecu $1500, cams $600, pistons+rods $1200 minimum, injectors fuel pump fpr $1k cheaper end, head gasket set $400, oil pump $250-$1500, timing belt + endless misc =$$$ labor if you cant do it yourself=$$, tuning =$$$
                        1991 Nissan Skyline R32 GT-R: 710whp 521 ft/lbs 27.5psi 11.8 @126mph low boost

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by Bruizer View Post
                          twins suck........ lol

                          Here's some monstrous single turbo eater.

                          Oooo.........a pissing match.......can i whip mine out?


                          Jon.
                          Why don't you come over to MySpace and Twitter my Yahoo untill I Google all over your Facebook.

                          1990 GTR Drag Special T88H34D 11.24 @ 127.55mph at only 1.2bar...... officially. SOLD

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            If it results in more pictures, I'm for it!
                            Originally posted by Dragon Humper View Post
                            Oooo.........a pissing match.......can i whip mine out?

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                            • #15
                              lol , hahahah


                              865 whp RB32 , R32 GTR , THE LUCKY GTR *SUMMER DRAG BEAST*
                              2013 Rams Laramie LongHorn 3500 Crew cab *Daily Driver*

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