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  • Leaking turbo banjo bolts

    Having a bit of an issue with installing a set of HKS GT-SS's. Twice now I've had to remove both turbos chasing leaks on the banjo bolts and return gaskets. After replacing all the copper crush washers, paper gaskets, and crappy Nissan hose clamps, It's still leaking from what looks like and oil supply banjo bolt. Well that's where I think it's coming from anyways, the leaks coming from the inboard side of the rear turbos. There's no evidence on the outboard side of the turbo, just a substantial amount of oil running down the lines that wrap around the bottom of the turbo, eventually dripping onto the down pipe. Is there any special installation instructions i'm missing, do I throw some RTV on it and call it a day? I'm pretty frustrated at this point because this will be the third time I've had to pull these turbos off in the past week. Any suggestions are welcome. Thanks.

  • #2
    I have he same problem with with the coolant banjo fitting next the the one you're talk about. WHAT A NIGTMARE to get at...!!!

    Did you torque them to spec as per the FSM? If they're not torqued they will leak, even with a new crush washer. Unless something got damaged
    No build thread.
    1991 nissan
    El terror

    "Built not bought" sooner or later = "broken not running"

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    • #3
      Copper. Crush. Washers. One time use only! Must be replaced after being torqued down. They are like $0.15 each. I had the same problem.
      1990 Skyline GTR Nismo #161

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      • #4
        He did replace them. Strange they'd leak unless the pipes were stressed. Were the crush washers replaced on both sides of the banjo fitting? Were they the correct size?
        Not trying to tell you to suck eggs but those fittings shouldn't give you any problems normally.

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        • #5
          Yeah new crush washers everywhere, ordered the exact sizes from Nissan. I was able to get a wrench on it today, and it still leaked. I'm thinking about just letting the actually warm up. I haven't ran it for more than like 5 minutes since the install. Think the heat would help them seal?

          edit: and i've got a crush washer on both sides of the banjo bolt.
          Last edited by zero_wheeler; 09-27-2013, 07:52 AM.

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          • #6
            Check the face of the oil line end that the copper washers contact for scratches. I had one gtr a guy brought me that the bottom of the fitting had a scratch/score that I didn't notice and it caused a leak even with new crush washers. Ended up replacing the oil line and the leak went away

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            • #7
              Getting a wrench on it doesn't mean torqued. You'd be surprised how much torque you should be applying which I doubt you did with your guesstimation.

              Heat doesn't mean anything to the sealing. If it's leaking, it'll leak at -10, 10, 100 whatever. probably worse the warmer your oil is as it thins out.
              Last edited by Bruizer; 09-27-2013, 07:10 PM.
              No build thread.
              1991 nissan
              El terror

              "Built not bought" sooner or later = "broken not running"

              Comment


              • #8
                Well, learned my lesson on that one. The smaller banjo bolts are the oil lines and for some reason I didn't think of it before, but the bolt that I THOUGHT was leaking wasn't, it was the oil feed that runs on top of the turbo and it was leaking down onto the coolant bolt/oil return line. Dropped the turbos again, re torqued the bolt with mad JDM strength and boom. No leaks. Now if just all that residual oil would burn off...
                Thanks guys

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                • #9
                  Well done. Atleast after all of the work the problem is solved. Might want to try some brake clean to rid of the oil before it burns and cokes on.

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