car running great, although seems slow

[Godzilla32]

hey guys, injectors and seals replaced and new plugs. ive gone through each coil unplugging one at a time and confirmed it is firing on all 6, tested resistance across all 6 and seems to be an average of 1.3 ohms. i know this is out of spec, could this be causing my slow car? i will be testing for boost leaks tommorow, also cleaned both mafs.

[Bruizer]

How old is your car?
Is it stock?
How many KMs?
They say if you take care of your car, it can lose 1% power per year, more if you don't take care of it.

[Skym]

Bigger injectors?? Why I ask, as they require a retune.

If replacement injectors, check that they are not leaking, thus making engine run rich.

[MarusGTR]

tested resistance across all 6 and seems to be an average of 1.3 ohms. i know this is out of spec, could this be causing my slow car?

They're in spec, you just forgot to substact the resistance of the multimeter itself (around 0.6, coincidentally).

[Godzilla32]

Really? That's interesting. Car has 160k km. the injectors are known good stockers with only 80k. I'm thinking a boost leak somewhere.
Thanks for the tip marus!
This car is near stock even has boost restrictor in place

[MarusGTR]

Here's another protip for a fellow stocker, the passenger side boost piping in the enginebay tends to leak (and in my case pop off) as it flexes from engine torque on one side and being stationary on the other. Grab two 96mm-nominal T-bolt clamps to properly secure it in place. It made a difference.

Edit: Also another protip with my last protip. Ask if you can test fit the clamps and return them. I've only come across one set of clamps that were actually their nominal size and fit properly from all the ones I've wasted on the internet.

[Godzilla32]

I'll try that, I notice a hesitation or like a wall at 3k rpm. I'm thinking mafs? Maybe I'll try to check for error codes and resolder the mafs.

[Godzilla32]

mafs resoldered, took it or a drive, still in limp mode. so i checked the ecu code before clearing it and it was a 12 as suspected. will try to take it out in a bit

[Godzilla32]

took it back out, seemed to run ok but still gutless. eventually it wouldnt idle, and i barely got back home, although it didnt set a code this time. i pulled the top maf and there was oil in the intake tubing there and the maf looked a little contaminated. i also notice that when im in 3rd and the car levels off at 3 i can feel surging power. like im holding the gas pedal and it feels like sloww sloww sloww, then i can feel a surge of power and then slow again. also disconnected both mafs while running and each one made the car die

[Skym]

Unplug MAF's while engine is off, then turn engine on. Stock ECU can idle, rev to around 2500rpm (ECU engages a rev limiter) without MAF's connected.

[Godzilla32]

Ok what will that solve? I figure it's maf related.

[Godzilla32]

this car is ******* slow boys, like my tercel would take it any day

[Skym]

Ok what will that solve? I figure it's maf related.

Just saying it works when turn engine off and unplug MAF's, then turn engine on. You said you tried unplugging MAF's with engine on.

[GTR-Dad]

Check plugs again. They can foul amazingly quickly when the car is not running right.
You could try .8mm gap as well, although if you're running stock boost, you shouldn't need to. If response changes though, it helps narrow down the puzzle.
Check compression too.

[Godzilla32]

huge progress. boost pipe on the passenger side was on upside down, flipped around and retightened. car runs much better, pulls hard and goes like a rocket. might test for further leaks tonight,!