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  • Nismo Super COpper mix

    I'm going out today to pick up a supposedly 80% life nismo super copper mix clutch and flywheel to replace my os giken ts2bd.
    I have never driven either clutch as i've been buying my car in pieces and putting it together slowly. The os giken has springs on the clutch discs and is a "dampered" clutch the copper mix isn't.

    I'm curious as to what the difference is between a dampered and non-dampered clutch is and what it does for driveability.
    I'm also curious what i should look out for when examining the clutch and flywheel to see any imperfections or how much life truely is left.

    heres the link to the ad, i talked him down to 300 as he had it posted up for 250$ a few days ago and modified the price.

  • #2
    I dont think thats a super coppermix...

    sent from a galaxy far, far away

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    • #3
      Sorry just regular copper mix. From nismo s website based on the model no on the clutch plate and flywheel.

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      • #4
        That clutch should feel/drive like stock if I'm not mistaken.

        sent from a galaxy far, far away

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        • #5
          Originally posted by nimblestix View Post
          That clutch should feel/drive like stock if I'm not mistaken.

          sent from a galaxy far, far away
          Edit: check for burning spots on the flywheel. And any physical damage to the actual material disc. If the thickness is within spec and it doesn't look physically beat up, its probably fine. Clean it well with brake clean prior to installation.

          sent from a galaxy far, far away

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          • #6
            The pedal will feel stock but the engagement will be harsh

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            • #7
              If it's an "unsprung" clutch it will have more chatter and won't be as smooth on engagement. They're also harder the rest of the driveline components. They aren't usually recommended for normal street use.

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              • #8
                That is the Sports Clutch Kit with Coppermix disc. It will be similar to stock, and not nearly as strong as your TS2BD. Any reason why you are downgrading? We do sell overhaul kits for the TS2BD if needed.
                RightDrive Inc. Parts Manager
                http://www.rightdrive.ca :: http://www.rightdriveparts.com :: http://www.rightdriveusa.com
                1970 Highway 7 West, Vaughan, ON :: 1-877-398-8220



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                • #9
                  I picked up the nearly new nissan clutch because it only cost me 300$ where as to rebuild my os giken would cost me 600 from what you call an un-reliable source and nearly the cost of buying a brand new version of the clutch from os giken themselves from you(sorry thats not ment to be bashing, however i do find some of your prices a little out there). I am currently on a tight budget since my daily driver went for a **** and i am now driving my moms monte carlo. While this isn't a big deal for her as i can drop her off at work then continue my way to school and she can get a ride home with my uncle it isn't ideal for me as i'm inconveniencing people and the way i see it i have 2 choices. I can put off this gtr project that i am super excited about to buy a new piece of **** beater to make it through the winter meaning i get no skyline for a few months, and i have to drive around another (most probably) sunfire with 0 features for 2 years; or i can use budget parts such as a second hand clutch(which on one hand sketches me out, on the other i'm kinda okay with. He was the previous manager at pur auto so i kind of trust him, and it is still a very good looking clutch, as well as a good branded clutch) and continue driving the montecarlo for 1-2 months until the snow clears up. Then i can drive my skyline throughout the summer while i'm at an 8 month coop position to make funds to pay for a nicer "beater" for the winter season, which i was planning to do this winter anyways.

                  As for the difference in clutches, this clutch is supposed to be rated for ~420-450 ps. My car is essentially stock and the only reason i have the os giken is it came out of the front cut i got my engine in. I shouldn't need the power handling capabilities it had as i won't be near that much power, however if the need comes one day it will still be around and rebuildable for a nice clutch.

                  I'm not sure this is the best train of thought, as most of the people on here can say a skyline isn't exactly known for its reliability however i'm hoping that since i've done most everything i can in a preventative maintenance manor while refreshing this engine for my car it should at the very least last me a summer, hopefully many more provided i don't get an urge to gain alot more power. The clutch was the last(knock on wood, this is as far as i know right now) piece of my gtr puzzle before i can drop my engine in and get everything running. So while i have to live a little impoverish at the moment the only thing i'm going to miss out on is the occasional pulled pork poutine while i'm having a long day at school. Guess i'll be packing lunches =].

                  this kinda turned ranty, i apologize if it seems grumpy i am fairly happy with my situation, but rather bumbed my car took a ****. I was hoping it would last me to the end of college but the last few months have been exceptionally rough for it.
                  Last edited by rvander1992; 01-14-2014, 11:41 PM.

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                  • #10
                    If the sports kit and Bobbo's point about NVH is acceptable to you, I think you'll be fine as it sounds like you have a stock-ish engine. Actually, it's probably been purposely designed for your current application. It is a nismo upgrade afterall.

                    From a purely speculative standpoint, a clutch is something you don't need to overkill (exceed spec power) if you don't make a habit of slipping the friction plates. The only benefit I can see of having additional pressure (or plates) in a clutch in a lower than spec power application is a reduction of the time for the mating surfaces to interface (lock), as slip friction is always superceded by static friction (you need more pressure to match an equivalent state of static friction during slipping). And even so, that's if you purposely induced slip; if you shift positively and rev match properly the difference shouldn't be noticible (I mean in a sense of mechanical efficiency).

                    I'm talking in everyday situations here. You don't seem like you want to launch in parking lots anytime soon.

                    PS: I can relate to your situation, you're not alone.
                    1992 BNR32 SKYLINE GTR

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