F.O.B. Tune up

[skylineftw]

Hey guys,

It's been a number of years since I've owned a Skyline (GTS-T, not a GT-R), and a couple years since I've picked up a "new" car.
I've got a 1992 GT-R on the way, and I'm planning out a parts order for known problem areas/good overall maintenance items that probably haven't been looked at in a few years.I like to plan ahead and be ready for things that might pop up... So far I have:

New air filter set-up ( has the factory air box currently) - Apex'i or Blitz SUS ( haven't decided yet)
New Belts - probably picking up the HKS fine tune v-belts
New Rotors and Pads - looking like project Mu rotors, and more then likely HP + pads
New coil packs - deciding between spitfire and yellow jackets still
New fuel filter
Oil filters...



Have I missed anything?

-Kev

[bobbo]

Solid start for sure. Don't sweat the coils as it won't matter if you use oem or YJs unless your shooting for 1000HP.
You may have some tired CV boots, ball joints, spark plugs, all the wet stuff and the list could go on.
Just enjoy and chip away at it.

[Kunzz]

congrats on the car.

stolen from somewhere:

LANDED SKYLINE + 100K SERVICE

1) compression test - do it, do it and do it, if the #'s are weak, it'll change you're future game plan.. so do this first. you wanna see #'s all above 150 or so, with no more than 10% deviation.
2) if it hasnt been done yet, do the 100,000 km maintenance package. we do the following:
- new timing belt,
- new idler, tensioner, bolts and springs too
- replace water pump (oem or N1 only $20 difference usually between the 2, ur choice)
3) suspension wise: check if u need to replace any ball joints, tables, control arms or ties rods, 95% of us had to change ours, its not that expensive but worth doing.
4) lock out your hicas mechanically and electrically... its a stupid system anyways
5) change every fluid in the car. front diff, rear diff, tranny, transfercase, engine oil, and coolant.
6) brake service, if its good then its good.. if not get what you need: pads, rotors (brembo blank rotors are the best imo) hawk HPS for street and HP+ for track (pads) use brake fluid RBF660 (high temp) flush and bleed brake system. chances are its the original brake fluid.

[skylineftw]

F.O.B. Tune up

^ that's what I was hunting for haha.

Suspension wise, I was planning to pick up the drift works kit and kill two birds with one stone ( hicas and new arms). Guess I forgot that haha.

CV boots are a good point too.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Skym]

Factory airbox flows better, just need to provide more air to airbox via new snorkel.

N1 waterpump is more track only (high rpm use, to help prevent creation of bubbles in cooling system), use OEM for road use (low rpm, stop and start traffic).

[Bigalow]

If you're gonna track it then its slightly different parts list.
As Skym mentioned, OEM airbox and water pump are fine for the majority of uses (even light track use). Your stock brembos/sumitomos are fine but grab spacers to fit larger rotors. Pads depend on your use.
I recommend you check all you're bushings: engine mounts (when you can), undercarriage, steering rack, knuckle joint, suspension bits.
Of course, do what Kunzz recommended as well

Sent from my SC-03D using Tapatalk

[Cuami]

If you're planning on the occasional track day or possibly some "spirited" street driving (let's be realistic
here...We all do it), you may want to consider addressing the oil pump issues.

[gtrte37]

^that would mean pulling the engine..I'm pretty sure he'd like to drive it first. Stay under 8k and dont go bouncing off the limiter and youll be fine.

[Cuami]

I'm not saying that he'd have to do it right away but it does fall under the "things that might pop up" category lol.