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I have the same conclusion, but then the rad being so large my fan hit the top portion and blew it up(the shroud not the fan), so now I've just cut that off. Might remove the whole shroud since I don't track or anythjng
I have the same conclusion, but then the rad being so large my fan hit the top portion and blew it up(the shroud not the fan), so now I've just cut that off. Might remove the whole shroud since I don't track or anythjng
That's the opposite logic to what you should do lol. Shroud helps ventilate when idling. Its better off when tracking (though you could get warm in the pits if you have a low efficiency rad).
Interesting point Mark. I understood that the shroud increased overall efficiency not just when stationary or going slow. I'm keeping my AC so that will reduce the velocity of the air passing through the rad so that may increase the need for the shroud. I'll have to look into this some more.
Hey "rvander" where was the point of contact between the shroud and fan? Perhaps I can make alterations to the shroud should I decide to keep using it.
Interesting point Mark. I understood that the shroud increased overall efficiency not just when stationary or going slow. I'm keeping my AC so that will reduce the velocity of the air passing through the rad so that may increase the need for the shroud. I'll have to look into this some more.
Take the whole radiator efficiency as a 1D flow path; intake (grille), AC, rad, shroud, fan. Convert to an electrical circuit and these 'blocks' become impedance with cruising airflow or the fan as an electrical voltage (equivalent to fluid flow dynamic pressure) source. I've already shown on another thread that cruising speed airflow supercedes fan flow by orders of magnitude; the fan becomes an impedance. Now take the shroud out of the path and current should increase at cruising speed.
Really rough logic but I think it makes for a valid point. At idle however, the shroud helps the fan move air because of conservation of mass; there's a boundary blocking flow from coming anywhere else than the rad surface so flow through the rad is maximized.
Last edited by MarusGTR; 07-22-2015, 09:40 PM.
Reason: Confused dynamic pressure as being constant in the analogy, derp.
There was a mishimoto thin shroud setup for sale on here 100-120$ last I checked he hadn't sold it.
The point of contact was the part where it rounds up over the radiator and cups the fan if that makes sense. I tried pereserving the top portion as a guard however later when working on the car my dad was leaning on it and cracked it. We tried glueing and reinforcing with metal and eventually just gave up. I was servicing the car and rinsing out the rad figured no point putting a busted shroud back in especially since I had to low the fan shroud and rad all in together so I just left it out.
I've seen a few higher powered street cars running just fine no shroud, and I can boot around get the car nice and hot then let it idle in my driveway for 10-15(thats how long I let it idle, not when problems starting showing up) without any issues; but I'm just using the stock gauge which isn't the most acurate.
I looked at doing altima fans, random ebay fans, mishimoto slim fans. None of these seemed to work, as there was issues with the AC and power steering getting in the way. The mishimotos work by clocking your powersteering line a little bit - requires cutting a bracket - or pulling the shroud apart and mounting the guards and fans from the opposite side for that little bit of extra clearance. Maybe all the guides I was reading were doing it wrong because the rad is made for the car, or maybe its poor engineering. With my rad in the car I have about 2.75" clearance to the line and 3-3.5" to the powersteering pulley. The most slim fan i found was 4.4" at its largest point, which may not make contact with the pulley as they're at different points, however I didn't want to spend the money to find out. Shroudless for me for now it is. Perhaps I'll look into a cooling panel, and possibly do what littledevilcrx did and have an additional plate on the top of the rad which forces more air over the engine instead of out and around through the engine bay.
I picked up my mishimoto dual fans for 100 bucks, was new in the box but not new, pain to fit though especially with a thicker rad , but can still make it work, I mounted one fan inside the shroud , to clear the pulley, about 5mm gap ... it's tight
The rad was overall a pretty good fit. The shroud wasn't 100% but a bit of trimming and it all fits back fine. Here I had to widen one of the holes on the shroud to line it up with the rad.
I had to trim the bottom corner of the shroud on the temp sensor side to allow the shroud to sit flush against the rad. You can see where it hits below.
Everything put back together (I swapped the rad cap after this photo). Works as advertised and clears the oem fan.
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