Project 514 GTR

[TW]

auto x VS high speed track like sanair ,the high speed track puts alot more heat/stress on those rotors.

im not saying i'm expecting a bulletproof braking setup, that will come when this becomes a devoted track car. For the time being, I'm pretty sure this will give me more than enough for a few lapping sessions per year.

[mitch32]

I don't think the brake rotors can cause such a massive difference in braking, forsure heat dissipation and thermal expansion takes a role but all rotors are cast wrought iron. Also the consistency of the iron throughout the rotor is important but I doubt that the AMS stuff is bad. The pads, fluid, lines, condition of the calipers, and brake master cylinder are all what change the brake performance. The weight of the rotors play a huge role in braking also but AMS says their stuff is lighter then the stock rotors. I don't know why frankiman has less braking power then last year, maybe theres something wrong with the setup.

Frankiman didn't you have a caliper seizing up on the back wheel too? Frankiman did you rebuild the calipers?

[frankiman]

the rear brakes lock-up at slow speedd (60- km/h) without the abs acting up

but the issue is really with the front rotors, they are glazed as hell!

all calipers were tested prior to setting everything up and were working fine,
but like i said, i'll take it apart to see whats what

[TW]

VEry curious to hear results.

Btw, your rear brakes were locking up at higher speeds than 60. I was behind you at the end of the back straight, and noticed your rear brakes locking up at pretty high speeds.... this was at the very beginning of the day

the rear brakes lock-up at slow speedd (60- km/h) without the abs acting up

but the issue is really with the front rotors, they are glazed as hell!

all calipers were tested prior to setting everything up and were working fine,
but like i said, i'll take it apart to see whats what

[mitch32]

Post pictures, you sure they are glazed not grooved?

Its not expensive to rebuild calipers. Usually the kit is like 40-60$.

You shouldn't be locking up the rear, it means either the front brakes weren't working good and the rear was doing most of the braking or something is seizing up in the rear. You can get a pressure gauge to test your brake lines/system. Basically you unscrew the fitting on the caliper and attach it to the gauge, press the brakes and see how much pressure builds up in the line. If the pressure is low your braking system has something messed up somewhere, if pressure is good then your caliper has something wrong.

[archaeic_bloke]

ill just leave this here...

HD teaser #3 - footage from trackday

http://vimeo.com/15234000

enjoy!

[TW]

Checklist for this week.

Car goes to the garage on wednesday to diagnose + fix a few loose parts. Suspect rear subframe bushings to be shot, and potentially trans crossmember bushings. Also need to diagnose grinding noise, and a knocking from the front (not motor). Replace 2 rear studs. Weld in wideband bung in cat, >10* angle.

Prior to sending it to the shop: check for boost + vac leaks + solder in hicas lock. solder wideband wires. pick up brake fluid (motul rbf600), replace fluid. roll fenders. make appt with almasi if needed.

[frankiman]

the crossmember bushings took 3 weeks to arrive from japan from nissan directly, i hope autoworx has some in stock

and i'd like to drive your car around for a couple minutes to see if its the same grinding noise (i suspect mine is coming from the clutch discs)

the front knock might be the upper control arms, aer they stock? if they are the track day might have been the fatal blow

if you want i can replace the studs for you pretty easy, you won't have to pay to get it done, i had replaced 3 studs off the rear of my old GTR

if you need an appointment with robin, i'd suggest calling him asap, as he's still pretty booked, i spent the afternoon there yesterday (to tune my buddy's supercharged 350z)

[TW]

the crossmember bushings took 3 weeks to arrive from japan from nissan directly, i hope autoworx has some in stock

and i'd like to drive your car around for a couple minutes to see if its the same grinding noise (i suspect mine is coming from the clutch discs)

the front knock might be the upper control arms, aer they stock? if they are the track day might have been the fatal blow

if you want i can replace the studs for you pretty easy, you won't have to pay to get it done, i had replaced 3 studs off the rear of my old GTR

if you need an appointment with robin, i'd suggest calling him asap, as he's still pretty booked, i spent the afternoon there yesterday (to tune my buddy's supercharged 350z)

Hey franki,

yeah we'll have to see about the bushings... theres definitely something going on in the rear. Last time i had my car up on the lift at work, i noticed one of the subframe mounts to be bent out of shape as if someone used it as a jack point for a hydro lift.. other than that, by the way it feels, i wouldnt be surprised if it was the diff mount bushings (maybe both diff and subframe).

Hm we should look into that. I know for a fact it started happening after i got the car back from autoworx, and that there was definitely no rattle / grinding up until now. If it is the clutch discs rattling... then what?

Dont think the knock is upper control arms. AFAIK, they are stock but were replaced by haig when i bought the car. It sounds like a rotational noise, and i notice it most when im off the gas.. maybe because off less noise. it just goes tok tok tok tok tok tok.

Studs, i already have the parts, so its no big deal.. I dont have the patience for **** like that right now lol.

And finally.. ill make an appt with robin only if i dont find any mechanical reasons why my car is running so rich.. Idle AFR is all over the place and my wideband doesnt see any higher than 10.7 at WOT, all the way throught any gear.

[mitch32]

You don't have the solid sub-frame aluminum bushings?

If your cross-member bushing is messed up you can order the nismo one, its like 100$. Or we can just urethane the old one. My buddy with his VQ35 S14 took my old motor mounts and urethaned them, they turned out awesome and it cost like 3$.

I have solid diff bushings and I hear a 'tok' when I come off throttle, its because of the backlash of the diff coupled with the solid mounts.

Last thing if your car is too low the stock fuca hit the wheel wells cause they are thick. It happens to me a lot, I raised my car now so its not as bad.

[archaeic_bloke]

+ 1 with what mitch is saying... 100% same situation for me on the lowered car banging noise, and off throttle Tok Tok.. .its rear diff noise due to the fact i have all solid bushings down there.

the solid bushings make a big difference... they're relatively cheap from autoworx and i noticed a big improvement in feel

[nelsonmxmarc]

the solid bushings make a big difference... they're relatively cheap from autoworx and i noticed a big improvement in feel

Cheap like... 300$ all-in for O2 installed? :P bahah

how much? i might go get mine and my diff done as well..

[TW]

The "tok tok tok tok" is coming from the front, its not the fuca's hitting the body. Its definitely a rotational noise.

[cobrAA]

wheel bearing? I had a noise like that and it was my axle. But I still went ahead and bought another wheel bearing.

[TW]

Thats what ive been thinking... they're not cheap eh?