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RB26 Rebuild

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  • got some more work done on the car over the past couple days...

    Mocking up the bracket for the oil thermostat, bracket was made from a piece of flatbar heated and bent in the vice.





    1 coat primer 3 coats flatblack, black cap screws, mounted in there nicely... also the billet oil filter



    Finished up the wiring finally... had to run another wire to the warning light ill be installing on the dash above the switch



    This stuff is soooo nice to use...

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    • this will be the warning light i'll be using and i made a template for it to figure out where im gonna put it



      I'm thinking i'll put it here above the switch... it will be in my line of sight

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      • picture of the extra wire i leave by the brake booster so i can pull wires through the firewall... saves a lot of time...



        the grommet under the drivers side of the dash on the far right, I'll be liquid electrical taping that hole up before I put the dash back together

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        • Curtis, I have some questions concerning your accusump. Any reason you didn't put it in the truck to distribute weight? How is it plumbed in exactly? You're using the epc valve? Did you use a check valve to block back feed into the wrong direction?
          No build thread.
          1991 nissan
          El terror

          "Built not bought" sooner or later = "broken not running"

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          • Less hose going to front i couldnt find anywhete else to fit such a large cylinder... besides interior or trunk which i didn't want... it is plumbed into the back to engine line... i was told by the guy at canton racing that a check valve wasnt necessary... but just today i was thinking i have it plumbed into a Tee that goes into the oil thermostat exit so i figure i may push oil through the filter backwards possibly pushing containments back into the engine... hrmmm... gonna have to plumb in a check valve i guess. Also i am using an epc valve set for 37psi

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            • Im still in the garage putting the dash back together ill post some pics from todays work

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              • The check valves can be restrictive. I run the canton one and my pressure was 9bar so it's believe it was causing the high pressure and lower flow. I have heard some filter blocks have built in check valves but I do not know for sure.
                No build thread.
                1991 nissan
                El terror

                "Built not bought" sooner or later = "broken not running"

                Comment


                • Maybe I don't have an understanding of what you're doing. The accusump is a drysump oil pump? But then you have it on a switch, does that mean its technically possible for you to shut off your oilpump while driving and isn't that insanely bad?

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                  • the accusump is on a switch so i dont have to have it on all the time... it has two uses, 1st is in ignition mode before i start the car i flip on the accusump switch and it will pre-oil my engine then when oil pressure registers on the gauge I know its made it all the way through and I start the car, 2nd is in any situation where i lose oil pressure (ie. hole in oil pan, hard cornering and starve oil pickup tube, hole in oil cooler or an oil line) the accusump will automatically pump up to 3 liters of pressurized oil through my engine to keep it from dying last approx 30-60 seconds depending on RPM. So as long as I have the switch in the on position and my oil pressure doesn't drop below 37psi the accusump valve will not open...

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                    • Originally posted by Bruizer View Post
                      The check valves can be restrictive. I run the canton one and my pressure was 9bar so it's believe it was causing the high pressure and lower flow. I have heard some filter blocks have built in check valves but I do not know for sure.
                      9 bar holy heck... which model of accusump did you get... they just released a newer style EPC valve too, did u get yours recently?

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                      • Yeah 9 bar... could be why I had a bearing failure lol.

                        Older model. 2010 I think. The problem with the 37psi epc is that at idle it's closed and read for fail safe but at wot, say you're seeing 6 bar and you have a surge down to 40psi, the epc is still closed but you have low oil pressure which may be enough to damage things (especially when you have after market bearing clearances.
                        Get a higher pressure valve and you lose cruising protection. Not sure how well setup mine is but at 37 psi who knows.

                        I have a Tomei oil pump.
                        No build thread.
                        1991 nissan
                        El terror

                        "Built not bought" sooner or later = "broken not running"

                        Comment


                        • the tech guy told me the same thing cause i was like i'll take the lower psi model 27psi or whatever and he's like i really dont suggest doing that cause at 8000rpm 27psi wont get oil there quick enough it'll be to late... at least 37psi is almost 3bar pressure... i just replaced my oil pressure sensor with a new stock unit so i'll now see true oil pressure on my gauge... i would read 2-4bar always... and changing so now i'll be able to see whats going on... i've also shortened my oil lines by adding in the thermostat now the oil doesnt go all the way to the cooler all the time which is good...

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                          • some pics

                            new to do list


                            finally finished my battery relocate to the trunk...


                            Finished the warning light install now i have all the accusump stuff done 100%


                            ripped out the coil packs, i wanted to see what the plugs looked like




                            1st cylinder


                            2nd cylinder


                            the rest of the plugs looked the same nice golden brown/tan colour and gaps visually looked the same

                            Using NGK Iridium Plugs P# BCPR7EIX-11 everyone says they have had or have problems with iridium... not this guy... they work great... 28psi, water meth, 720cc injectors, stock new coil packs old ignitor and harness.

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                            • that to do list is outta date lol ive got to cross off a couple more items on that list... feels good to cross off items, one step closer...

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                              • i cleaned those plugs up good as well as the coilpack boots... then re-applied neverseize and reinstalled... one disadvantage to not running the coil pack cover is that so much crap gets around the plugs down in the valley... i vacuumed, blew with air, vacuumed again, used my fine pick and scraped and loosened more crap then vacuumed and blew it out again geeze... i still had one hole that a little piece of whatever fell into the cylinder... i could see it on the top of the piston so i just got a straw and attached it to my vacuum and i got it out... then i vacuumed all the cylinders out with the straw just in case...

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