JF dry sump GTR

[mcfly]

carrillo rods say carrillo on them very clearly.

[collector240sx]

carrillo rods say carrillo on them very clearly.

Yeah, I figured that much, but there is absolutly no marking of any kind on
them. As far as I can see, they look identical to the Carrillo and tomei rods.
They do have the marking (CARR) and (SPS 34) on the rods bolts.

The only thing I can see on the rods is a upside down (J) on the bottom
of the rods, right next to the rod bolt.

They came with the crank, like 2 years ago,
Ever herd about any copy or other rods that could of look like them ?

[Skym]

F1 pistons have a inverse dome shape on the piston crown that helps to draw air in. Also less pistons rings for reduced friction.

What do the pistons, conrods weigh??? As that probably will be a factor in reving higher than factory rev limit which creates more load on bottomend. The lighter the bottomend, the less rotating mass, load there will be.

From what I understand increased load on bottomend from reving higher than stock rev limit can snap a H beam conrod like a twig and put a hole in the side of shortblock.

Just 1000rpm adds something like 3500?kg on bottomend.

Titanium conrods are used, due to being light, strong.

[Brewpubeaver]

you need an accusump, sont a dry sump IMO.


and why 11,000rpms?

[collector240sx]

Well I know quite a bit on the stress that can go in the bottom end of an
engine. I did 2 years in mecanical engineering (had to change because
of medical reason).

I don't think I should have a problem reving the engine at the limit I have set.
I could see it being a problem around 12.5k - 13k rpm or higher, but not
for just 10-11k. There are some rb in japan reving them around 13k already,
with the crank I have. And by the way the tomei crank is like 4 kg heavier
than a stock crank. Just try any simulation on a fully counter crank and a
semi counter crank and check the difference in amount of stress put on
the bottom end.

I actually have no reason for reving the engine up to those rev range, I don't
even have any reason to have a skyline to begin with. hell I don't even have
track near me lol. I just want to because I can.

But let say that my turbo has full spools at 6000rpm and my rev limit is
8k rpm and 10k rpm, well lets have a look at the gearing if it was stock.

At 8k rpm, the shift points would be has follow :
gear 1 = ---------- 45 mph
gear 2 = 4 779 rpm 75 mph
gear 3 = 5 387 rpm 111 mph
gear 4 = 6 123 rpm 145 mph
gear 5 = 6 015 rpm 193 mph

At 10k rpm, the shift points would be has follow:
gear 1 = ---------- 56 mph
gear 2 = 5 947 rpm 94 mph
gear 3 = 6 741 rpm 139 mph
gear 4 = 7 668 rpm 181 mph
gear 5 = 7 508 rpm 241 mph

For some it might not seam like a big difference, but there is a difference.
In the first senario you fall out of boost when you shift in second and third.
The second scenario is almost perfect, you whouldn't have to redline after
the first gear.

And I would like to say it's not because I want to build an engine that can
rev to 11k rpm that it mean I'm going to have it floored the whole time, like
come on. Think about all those car you see at the track, a lot of them run
a high boost an a lot boost. And think about it, they have no reason to run
high boost on the street, a lot of them have enouf problem to put low boost
to the ground on the street.

And I will have to take the turbo efficiency table into account, even if the
engine is able to rev to 10k rpm, depending on my turbo setup it might just
be blowing hot air. I think some of you might understand what that means.
(Creating a lot more heat, but not a lot more power) So I will have to see
what kind of air my head is going to flow, so I can check for the turbo that
will fit my application best.

And It won't bother me to rebuild the engine every year or two. It's my
hobbie, I couldn't do it for work so I do it on my free time, let's just hope I
have enouf.

Anyway, I want to build the car before that engine ever goes near it. So
it's not like it going in this year, realisticaly it's more like 2 years from now.
My goal this summer is just to have it running and to enjoy it. That's why
I'm doing the dry sump right now. Next is going to be the computer (AEM
probably), building a fuel system, the transmission and probably the shafts.
No points in putting the engine in soon and just brake parts after parts, and
have the car park for ever.

The big number I'm having problem with is 800hp, over that number the parts
get quite f*****n expensive. Well onely time will tell I gess. Prepare for the
worst, hope for the best....

P.S. When you have an accusump it doesn't replace your regular oil pump,
I don't trust them, there for I got rid of it, just that simple. I was still
looking at adding an accusump to my system, but decided to order an
electric oil pump, I can get one from the UK for 200$ can, that can do
what I want. I'm going to order it as soon as I get back from my trip
next week. I find it better, because I can rig a pressure switch that will
automaticaly activate it if the pressure fall bellow a certain level, like if
the belt broke on the dry sump. Or if there is an engine problem that I
have to shut the engine down right away, I can still pump the oil to the
turbo so I don't cook it. Even if my first idea was just to get it to prime
my system before I started the car. lol All in all it's probably going to cost
2 - 2.5 grand for my system wich I don't find to bad, for the peace of mind.
Keep in mind that a good oil pump is 1-1.5 grand, can still fail, and you
won't get the little extra from my system.

[Skym]

Oh, I see where your coming from.

That's very interesting info, thanks.

What formula/program did you use for the gearing, as I have been trying to find a formula/program to workout gearbox gearing to engine powerband???

[mcfly]

you need an accusump, sont a dry sump IMO.


and why 11,000rpms?

any rb26 oil pump has huge risk above 10k rpm. People have done more but the risk of cavitating the pump is huge and can destroy it very quickly.


collector240sx, what do you intend to do with the original oil pump? Since you wont be using it are you going to gut it or are you going to make a one off cover?
If you are going the cover route i would certainly be in to get one done at the same time as i need to fabricate one shortly.

[collector240sx]

Skym the site I used is

http://www.teammfactory.com/gearcalculator.php

I like it because you can go over the graphic and at any given rpm on it
can give you the speed. Enjoy

And Mcfly, right now I'm just looking at gutting the pump so I can have
the engine ready in the next month or 2. But I would be interested in a
custom plate for the built engine. Unfortunatly since I looking at a 1 - 2
years build time for that, let's just say I'm not in a big hurry. But if you
do go throught with having it built, I would appriciate it if you could let
me know the cost of it, you never know if it resonnable, I might be willing
to get one.

[Skym]

Collector240sx, thanks.

[christdeyoung]

What has to be done to 'gut' the oil pump as to convert to dry sump/external? Just remove the gears?
I'll most likely be going external this winter.

[collector240sx]

Sorry for the late reply

There is a couple of way to do it, but they are all pretty much similar.

You have the choice to leave the back plate or to take it off.
(Really no reason to leave it on)

Of course the inside is gutted, so empty.

You must block the passage in the block from the pump to the filter
outlet or oil will just pour back into the pan. (or you can block the
passage on the pump it self like this pic, just a pic picked up from
researching on the net)



Hope this help.

[collector240sx]

Sorry for not updating often, didn't really get much worth updating for.

Still debating building the bottom for next summer or just rebuilding the
engine to a mild build and building an other one on the side. Since this
is mostly going to be a toy, it's not really my priority right now.

And on the other side, my rb25 240sx project is going an other
direction. I'll be putting the rb25 in my daily driver, an other 95 240sx.
There's a reason I chose 240sxcollector has my nickname after all. lol

I'll be doing an interesting build thread for my project 240sx, in the off
topic section, probably next winter, if thing start to pick up.

It's one thing to build the engine, but the rest of the car has to be able
to keep up, an not brake every time I step on the gas. So right now, I'm
leaning on driving it next summer and slowly build the car up to par
with what I want from the engine.

P.S. The dry sump should still be on the engine next summer.

I'll try to update every time I have something nice that comes in.

J-F

[collector240sx]

Lol

2 years, an other car, a new house, a baby on the way, finally got the car out of storage to start working on it a little bit.

Just to find out the damn ABS pump leaked every where.

So got rid of it, redid the brake line, will probably redo the line going from the master to the front passenger caliper, so it's hidden later. Got rid of the hicas pump, took the gear out of the power steering pump, looped the line and in the process of taking all the other lines out. Decided that the engine bay was still too cramped so will also completely take the aircon out. Will also take the windshield washer tank and coolant over flow tank and relocate.

But right now the priority is to clean the mess on the inner fender where the ABS use to be. I did a quick clean, but still got a ways to go. Then rust convertor, and repainting the engine bay if mother nature is nice, and I have the time before I have to send it back in storage.

Will post pics later, girlfriend want me to watch a movie right now.
And got to keep mommy to be happy.

Will post

Edit:

Alright soo open the hood a little while back.



And something seam odd, the brake fluid is really low, to not say empty.



So start to look around and I see this.





So it had to come out, and really didn't feel like fixing it, so fixed the line for the time being.





This is what I found under it.



So gave it a little clean, also had to remove some seam sealer.





Still got to do the lower part, treat it with rust convertor, and then primer. (It's not a
rust bobble in the pics, it's just the flaking paint, looks weird in the pic)



The rust isn't deep at all but it a damn pain to get to.

After a while being folded in two in order to see what I was doing, my back told me he
wasn't to happy, so took a little time to start taking the Hicas out, took the pump gear
out and loop the the line. Looks a lot better without it. Still got to order the Hicas
replacement part for the back and get the rest out.



Next, the AC, charcoal canister, windshield wiper fluid bottle, and coolant bottle.

[bellis_GTR]

Thanks for showin these pics mate. I'v just been convinced to delete abs, so this is gonna help forsure. Did you keep the same BMC? I thought there should be just one line going to the rear then it splits at the rear?

[collector240sx]

Yeah kept the same BMC, this was just to keep it mobile. (lol or rather have it able to stop). I would recommend that you add a proportioning valve somewhere accessible. This way you'll be able to adjust front to back brake bias. There fairly cheap and easy to install, if you plan on adding it at the same time you'll be removing the ABS pump.

Man, can't believe I've had this car for this long and haven't got it on the road yet. lol Really got to at least get one of the 2 engines I got back together this winter.