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RGB GTR

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  • RGB GTR

    Hey all,
    Welcome to my project page. I'm typing this up a little early, because I'm having trouble with my camera and I can't get pics up right now. But that's not going to stop me from rambling on about my car

    INTRODUCTION

    Well, unfortunately, I never took any pictures of the car when I first bought it. I do have some picture of the beast right before I started to really work on it. So hopefully sometime soon (maybe even as you're reading this) there will be pictures posted in some future reply.

    I bought the car in May 2009 from a used car dealership in Ottawa. The owner of the dealership was telling me how he knew almost nothing about it, but was sick of having 18 year-old douche bags bring their girlfriends to the lot and fawn over the car. Meanwhile, the dealer can't really answer any of their questions anyway. From what I've learned the car was once owned by a fellow GTRCer whose real name is Cory, but I've never met the guy. At a weekly meet in Ottawa I had the chance to meet CDGuy, and his friend Andrew who knew "Cory" and are active members of this forum (CDGuy, if you're reading this, what up!).

    I bought the car for $6500.

    On the surface it seems like a killer deal: a 1991 Nissan Skyline GTR with "100,000km" on the odometer (It has a Mine's 320km/h cluster, we all know what that means). I'm going to ballpark the real KMs at 150,000. Everything works on the car, except for the rear turbo. Yay!

    So I've been driving around the world's shittiest NA car. I'm sure my Saturn LW200 could beat it on the 1/4 mile.

    But that doesn't stop me from buying it. Why you ask? Well this car has the potential to wreak some serious havoc! Here's a list of known mods to the car:

    PART LIST

    - NISMO Oil pump complete assembly: This part was bought by Cory, I guess the rear turbo had a leak, and it blew. Thinking that the oil pump was entirely at fault Cory bought and installed this unit, but it did not fix the problem of NO BOOST! So long story short, he got quoted "$5000" from a local Performance shop to do the turbo replacement job. I got quoted the same thing from the same shop (who remember Cory and the car vaguely). And Cory, not having $5000 cash had to sell the car.
    -HKS Oil Filer relocation and oil cooler
    - Full 3.5" Veilside exhaust with Cat Delete: The workmanship on this exhaust system is freaking immaculate. Try to spot the welds on the (future) pictures. You can't. They're that good.
    - Brand new ABS unit. I don't really care, but the insurance company seemed to appreciate it.
    - large FMIC: Not sure on the brand because it was sprayed black
    edit: Stock FMIC, d'oh!
    - Tokico Shocks: The rear suspension is a little bouncy, but this suspension is a great middle ground between soft and hard. The car sticks really well, but isn't stiff and rickety on the city roads.
    - HKS Turbo Timer
    - HKS Electonic Valve Controller II (EVC II)
    - Oil Filter relocation kit: leaks a little at one of the braided connection.
    - Mine's ECU installed, probably running the knock map
    - Tomei ECU in a box: My guess? Cory bought this ECU to replace the sketchy "Only works in Japan" tune of the Mine's ECU, but found that Tomei's special "Blows turbos outside of Japan" tune was worse.
    - New Timing Belt
    - New Spark Plugs


    And that's about it for mods. Delicious.
    So the HKS electronic units can be ballparked at $2000.
    Veilside exhaust with custom downpipe $2000
    NISMO Oil pump $1000
    Both ECUs retail $2000
    aftermarket FMIC $1000
    Oil filter reolcation with braided lines $1000
    Coilovers $1000

    So all the mods are about $10,000 worth of parts and labor.

    PROBLEMS

    It also looks like the previous owner did the complete fluid change, all the coolants look good. The main problem is that the rear turbo is blown and it's leaking oil into the exhaust.
    The car idle is fine at 1000rpm. When I drive around though, I get RPM sag if I clutch in at "high" RPM. Let me explain: If I drive to a stop sign and clutch in at >1500RPM the rpm idle sags down and down to 500-300 and sometimes recovers to idle at 1000, but usually coughs the car to a stall.
    The car also misfires somewhere in the 2500 rpm range, it's pretty consistent and I haven't figured out which cylinder is doing it yet. At some point in time I'll unplug the injectors one by one.

    More to come.

  • #2
    Dunno how much that valve controller is but i dont think those units will be ballparked in the 2000 range

    Comment


    • #3
      Are you sure it has a nismo oil pump? He could afford to buy a $1000 dollar oil pump and pay to have the engine pulled out to install it, but couldn't afford turbos?
      1990 Skyline GT-R - Jet Silver Metallic
      It'll run someday

      Comment


      • #4
        nice deal!!! My R32 gtr cost 22k when it had 112,000km with Mine's 320km/hr speedo and aftermarket exhaust. So even if the engine was cooked and the tranny shrapnelled, you're still laughing!!!
        Black 1991 GTR. Serious garage stand mantle/parts car.
        Black 1990 Pulsar GTiR. Sold
        Silver 1989 GTR. Sold
        Black 2010 Subaru WRX. Weekend warrior. Sold.
        Black 2013 F-150 FX4 ecoboost. Daily driver.
        White 2012 Ford Explorer Limited. Family wagon.

        Sorry for my offensive comments, I r socially retard.

        start by having A ROLLING GTR then we talk u ******* mofo funzy little *****
        lol

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by RGB View Post
          Oil filter reolcation with braided lines $1000
          First off, Welcome to the Site

          but i couldn't let this pass, greddy kits are $200 max and many others can be had for much less.

          Now, let us see this beast.....
          Tџяϊsмø

          Comment


          • #6
            I just bought a brand new HKS valve controller for $700

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by tokes View Post
              Are you sure it has a nismo oil pump? He could afford to buy a $1000 dollar oil pump and pay to have the engine pulled out to install it, but couldn't afford turbos?
              Another version of the story tells me that the previous owner only has 2 points left on his license.

              The electonic units brand-new and probably installed in Japan 10 years ago allow me to ballpark the cost at $2000. That is nowhere near resale cost.

              Still haven't found my USB cable for the camera.

              Semi-update: I've taken apart the whole intake system and I flushed out all the oil that leaked into it. 7 hours into the job I have the front turbo removed, but the engine won't go back into its mount And I installed 2 dual-port BOVs for maxxxximum rice.

              Comment


              • #8
                Here's a picture of the beast, and the littler beast.

                Wingless!


                Those HKS instakes are going to be replace with K&N Filters.

                Comment


                • #9
                  So the car goes on a hoist and the disassembly begins!

                  The entire intake system is removed. Front bumper, FMIC, all the piping and recirc tubes. And that gives us a view of the inside of the turbo!

                  MMMMMM oily goodness. No wonder I wasn't getting any boost.

                  Exhaust is also removed. Full 3" Veilside exhaust with cat-delete.


                  Oh, did I say cat-delete? I meant WTF?!?!?!

                  So you guys see that right? The cat inlet pipe goes from 3" to 2.5" to 2" back to 2.5" and into the cat. On the way out it does the same stupid thing.

                  I brought the car to a local performance shop to get it E-tested right after I bought it. Of course it failed miserably, there's no cat. The tech there (who I trust to some extent) quoted me $600 for the cat job. Because I don't want to mess around, and I want my car on the road I agree.
                  Well, apparently this butcher job "costs" $600. Note to self, don't go back to that shop. On top of that they didn't give me my muffler back. And they left a hanging wire dangling under the car.

                  Can anyone identify this? I'm thinking it's an Exhaust Temp sensor. It's on the underside of the car just after the downpipe.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    That is the EGT sensor. It should be plugged in after the cat.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Most cases it will plug directly into your cat or testpipe.
                      2009 Mercedes C63 AMG. Daily
                      1969 Cooper S. Restored
                      1994 Rover Mini 1460cc, 134whp, 7 port fuel injected w/ITB's, & straight cuts w/ 4.67 gearing

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        lol I called to put an offer on this car the day after it sold. Something about a white gtr

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          evc2 cost $50 on ebay ... $1000 is 20years ago's value
                          All parts sold are no refund/exchange

                          Honda tuning is a LifeStyle
                          Nissan tuning is to go stupid FAST !


                          Goals for 2013
                          Get the dAmn thing rUnning

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by felix yuen View Post
                            evc2 cost $50 on ebay ... $1000 is 20years ago's value
                            yeah jsut abotu to say.
                            Real Skyline owners have lost at least one to a freakish accident (*- ω -) = #dungive'a

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              I just cut it off, you don't need it for the car to run. All it does is scare you with a hot exhaust light when you drive hard.

                              Check for vaccum leaks on ALL the vaccum lines, and Mine had the gaskets blow out of the compressor side of the turbo's. An easy way to check is to run some butane over the hoses with the car running, if the engine revs up a bit, you've got a leak! Helps narrow it down.

                              Good Platform! Do a compression test

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