'The weekend Terror' Project

[cschepp]

Nice driveshaft. Mine weighs in at even less at 14lbs. Considering stock is a ton more it's an awesome upgrade!

[NismoS-tune]

Small update.

Since this car is usually on the back burner, there's not much new but I did scoop up a new rear propshaft.



Factory 2 piece shaft.


New generic aluminum replacement shaft.


Not a bad weight loss.

[frankiman]

i'd try taking both rear upper arms off, then fit the lower arm, then adjust the upper arm to fit

[NismoS-tune]

Back home on my regular 6 days off. Here's some more pictures.
The rear subframe was all disconnected (only a few misery bolts and connectors) and removed... again. This time, I'm tearing it completely apart for all around new arms, bushings, new beefed up diff, custom stiffening brackets and paint. While taking things apart, I decided to fit test my Driftworks adjustable arms. The lower control arm will need some work to fit as the dimensions aren't exact matches (out by about 4mm). The rear diff's front bushings also aren't the same dimensions, they are about 5mm taller... The front control arms aren't anywhere close to the same so they can't be used. All parts were purchased new from a group buy on this site for GTR which most turned out to be GTS only...


All components stripped, the sub frame is ready for sandblasting.


Now the front subframe. Since I don't feel like bleeding the brakes again, I simply disconnected the lines and calliper and moved em over. Removed the wheel sensor, unbolted the coilover upper mounts and upper control arm bracket.


After disconnecting the power steering lines, steering shaft coupler and subframe bolts, everything came down at once.


The front subframe was pretty balanced and came down with 1 jack.



I have a small update on the engine from the shop but no pictures. The thrust bearing was worn down pretty bad which also wore into the thrust surface on the crank. The oil pump back plate also too some wear because of this but appears safe to reuse. There was no pilot bushing found in the crank (transmission input shaft brass bushing). So, I'll need 1 new bearing (1 size bigger) and a crank polish.

So, the suspected cause is the clutch adjustment may be out... Since it's an expensive clutch I don't want to simply replace, it will be reused so once everything goes back together, we'll have to measure everything and check clearances/excess play.

Stay tuned.

[Velders]

Will have a few pics of all this madness soon....

[NismoS-tune]

Head was separated from the block last night and pan was removed. Other than the obvious crank walk from end to end, there is no heat marks, no debris in the oil, no signs of wear or anything.

Also talked with Carbonetic and I have confirmed that I had the correct bearing and sleeve for the clutch. At this point, there isn't much left for guessing. The builder will take measurements and find out if the previous builder had bad clearances or didn't use the correct thrust bearing (is it possible to not even use one?).

Pictures will be posted soon.

Also, dropped the rear subframe again to replace all control arms, bushes and diff with my super jmd tite one. Front sub frame will come out next year now. Thinking about powder coated the frames lol. Stay tuned.

[Velders]

Sorry for my offensive comments, I'm socially retarded.

Hahaha just noticed this.

[NismoS-tune]

All good. I booked early but didn't know about your school.

What's more important is the reinstall, that will be tougher with few people.

They're JGTC Edition

Still sorry I couldn't make it to help out School sucks.





He is just messing with you lol they are original special edition black LMGT-4's

[Velders]

Still sorry I couldn't make it to help out School sucks.

Dont know where you're seeing them but $800-1200 depending on size and offset + Shipping for a set optional Bronze, Chrome Silver and White colors.

He is just messing with you lol they are original special edition black LMGT-4's

[Xeno-Vibe]

Ya but silver rays still cost more than $600 each. Waste, rota sells for way less and look the same. Anyway, most of my parts are eBay bought or are hongkong knickers but they still look nice, they just cost 1/3

Dont know where you're seeing them but $800-1200 depending on size and offset + Shipping for a set optional Bronze, Chrome Silver and White colors.

[NismoS-tune]

Ya but silver rays still cost more than $600 each. Waste, rota sells for way less and look the same. Anyway, most of my parts are eBay bought or are hongkong knickers but they still look nice, they just cost 1/3

[Xeno-Vibe]

Xeno-vibe, tough to tell what they are eh? They're $400 Rota with "$2400 nismo stickers" lol

Wouldn't be the first time i've seen non originals repainted to look authentic. They were original Rays and they still produce them in silver so it aint hard to replicate.

[NismoS-tune]

was it a machined r32 crank or a brand new r34 crank ?

would any of the piston/pin/conrod be damaged?

i really eager to see this car running, its an awesome project and you deserve mucho seat time in it

Was a new R34 crank. As for damaged rods/pistons, who knows. Head isn't off yet so we won't know what for a few weeks. I didn't do a compression test before teardown since it only had 1200 km but I am most likely changing pistons, rods and bearings (maybe crank too) to something better (currently has CP, eagle, RRR bearings).

I traded my Loaded block for a (scuffed cylinder) bare N1 but really, Might end up changing the block too depending what the findings are and budget available.

[frankiman]

was it a machined r32 crank or a brand new r34 crank ?

would any of the piston/pin/conrod be damaged?

i really eager to see this car running, its an awesome project and you deserve mucho seat time in it

[NismoS-tune]

The new engine was broken in and brought to the tuner (1200km) to finish up some work and get a bit more power. A week later when it was ready to tune, they noticed the engine would drop idle from 900 to 700 when the clutch was pressed in. The crank was moving out as much as 3mm (tolerance is 0.1 I think) sign of failed thrust bearings, the crank pulley moved. The engine ran and car drove fine otherwise but it was stopped there and towed away so no chances of further damage could be taken. Crankwalk is what they call it. So I'm rebuilding it again but not until the cause is found. Hopefully I don't need a lot of parts to repair it.
The bearings used were Nismo RRR but I doubt I'll go with those again. Most likely tomei or cosworth.


Xeno-vibe, tough to tell what they are eh? They're $400 Rota with "$2400 nismo stickers" lol