'The weekend Terror' Project

[NismoS-tune]

You running a T-stat on your a/m oil cooler? Is there any huge disadvantage to not running one?

Honnestly I'm not 100% but I do believe the HKS unit has a Tstat built it. My other GTR didn't use an oil cooler and it was fine around town and driving spiritly. I would suggest an oil cooler if you track but if you have the budget to do it, it's a good upgrade. Oil stays 15 degrees cooler and oil changes aren't as often, then again, I use 0w50 oil haha.

[ST240]

You running a T-stat on your a/m oil cooler? Is there any huge disadvantage to not running one?

[NismoS-tune]

Braden,

That is infact the correct part number. I have the right P# for both items so my guess is one of the 2 have changed designs. I'll do what I can to make it work I guess... Going to have to removed the mishimoto name plate and put it elsewhere so I can bolt it down, as you can tell...

[JNS Performance]

Maybe 'ill get a moroso cooler

Grab a B&M from Canadian Tire, they are around $30-35

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Do you still have the original box your Koyo came in? and have you test fit the radiator in your car? I am thinking you possibly got an incorrect radiator or they changed the design a bit... check the box for the P/N's listed below and measure the radiator.

R32 Radiator:
P/N: R020214
Overall Size: 26.2" x 19.7" x 3.8"
Core Size: 14.96" x 25.59"

R33 Radiator:
P/N: R020442
Overall Size: 26.4" x 21.8" x 3.1"
Core Size: 15.75" x 25.51"

Here is pictures of that EXACT same mishimoto fan shroud lines up on Ben's brand new (2+ year old) Koyo radiator. I actually repacked that one and sent it your way since I knew it fit





Sorry about cluttering your thread, if you want me to delete this stuff let me know and shoot me a PM

[NismoS-tune]

looks like your master clyinder leaks. all the paint under it is bubbled or peeling.

I saw that after posting the picture. I'm not sure if it was a previous leak or a new leak though I haven't had to add any fluid over the last year. I'll try to check and see if it is indeed looking. Thanks for the heads up!

Where did you get the lines/fittings and the T for the ABS delete?? What size are they?

This mod was a time consuming one... Took time to find the right parts and how to run it since I didn't want it looking like crap or get in the way of anything. I was unable to find the right size of lines in local shops or online so I converted to 3/16 lines from NAPA. They had the splitter there too. The factory fittings are 10mm however the lines seem to be the same for 3/16 so the fitting was good. No leaks so far but I haven't ran the car with the booster, only manual pedal to the floor (good pressure). I kept the factory fittings where they had to be used and converted only for the prop valve and splitter block. It turned out pretty good I think. The reason for using the prop valve is because I couldn't find if the master cylinder had a proportioning valve in it or not and it would be dangerous to have full pressure out back so the $80 part was a must. I can control 57% to 100% pressure going out back

[Boyscout]

looks like your master clyinder leaks. all the paint under it is bubbled or peeling.

[C-unit]

Where did you get the lines/fittings and the T for the ABS delete?? What size are they?

[NismoS-tune]

Ah thanks. That sneeze probably flows more than Vtec too lol.

I'm sure everything will come together with time, which I don't have much of with everything else coming first. Being a toy means it's just that, used when I have left over time

[Oakville]

that sneeze sounds like vtec kicking in yo.

unfortunately nothing constructive from me, dont know much about this yet. but looking naice!

[NismoS-tune]

Update. Been busy around the house again but my 6 days off start again tomorrow. I still don't have an engine or know of it's status or location but I have nearly every other part. Still looking for fender liners and some AN fittings.

I don't think this car will run this summer due to unexpected delays (can't say which until I know why) but everything is paid for.

[NismoS-tune]

Small update. Got busy around the house, yard and spend time with the Wife (car comes last) so I spent 1 out of my 6 days off this week to work on it.

Got the brakes finally finished, just pressure checking everything for leaks for the next 24 hours. I love my mighty vac.

PICS!

Here's a quick picture of the deleted ABS section. I was able to delete 3 brake lines by doing this and the last line is tucked away now. Still needing to drill holes for the line clamps.

Since I was unable to get my hands on a non ABS oversized brake master cylinder, I decided to do like some other guys (Austrialians mostly) and split the front feed line at the master cylinder. Sadly, I was unable to get the right size of fittings (metric) so I used what was available (3/16th blocks and fittings). the I am certain that by how things fit, the factory lines were the same as imperial lines I used.

Since the ABS is gone and I could not confirm that the brake master cylinder had a proportioning valve for the back line, I decided to get a wilwood prop valve and manually control the back pressure from 57% to 100% of the available pressure. By the way it looks, I should be able to fit it in without causing fitment issues with the intake plenum. The strut bar should cover it fairly well while still being accessible.


Had some problems with the Mishimoto fans again. When I first tried it with my Koyo copper rad, it didn't fit well, so I sent the fans back to get another set. I tried the fans (same as old after all) and it fits no different on my larger koyo aluminum radiator. It seems I'll have to drill out the name plate to fit it right... Also has a 1/4" gap at the bottom once installed right.
Anyone know if koyo or mishimoto has changed their designs lately?



Don't mind my brother's sneeze, funny guy...

[NismoS-tune]

u absolutely need the p/s cooler,

at every track event i go, i always forget to drain a bit of p/s fluid, and it heats up and expands and overflows everywhere

Now, does it heat up because you're lines and reservoir run near your turbos or because of excess steering?

I have no hicas and my reservoir and lines are relocated away from turbos.

Maybe 'ill get a moroso cooler

[frankiman]

u absolutely need the p/s cooler,

at every track event i go, i always forget to drain a bit of p/s fluid, and it heats up and expands and overflows everywhere

[NismoS-tune]

I was talking about the ps cooler. But you could toss the oem oil cooler as well to clean things up. I never run those nasty things. You already have a more efficient aftermarket one anyways so that thing is pointless. It gets rid of two coolant hoses too. Then you can get a ratchet in there easier to remove that top starter bolt that is a pain. O even better, I weld a bolt to the top bolt for the starter so all I need is a stubby ratchet wrench and gets it off in 2 seconds for fast removal at the track when the clutch or trans goes boom. Just another idea I guess.

what size is your accusump.
I ran with the moroso unit. Looks about the same as yours in size. Also, is that a pressure switch you are running in line.

I have no problem chucking the oem oil cooler but the power steering cooler is needed, no? I don't have Hicas and it's completely disabled and gutted however I use my power steering pump's secondary stage to feed the cooler. If I get rid of the oem oil cooler, do I need to cap or plug what it mounts to? As for the accusump I it it's 1quart or 1.5, can't remember and it doesn't say it on there. I'm having a tough time figuring out where to put the dang thing.

It has a pressure switch and electric valve so it's used for prelube along with under pressure protection. It's the only way to do it.


the dipstick...... I dunno, bend the shaft and have it go elsewhere.

[Oakville]

that looks nice franc, that oil cooler's on my list too. what are you going to do about the dipstick?