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Terrh's R32 GTR Build

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  • #46
    UPDATES!

    I just picked up my rebuild kit, ACL bearings, assembly lube, and N1 oil pump:



    Got the interior out (except the headliner, I can't figure out how the F it comes out, stripped all the tar off the floors:


    Pulled the glass out, here's how the car and my garage looks now:



    1992 GTR - 2.7L, GT2871R's, forged bottom end, big valves, 270* cams, R34 getrag
    2000 Honda Insight - 70+mpg daily driver
    2003 Sierra 2500HD Diesel - Tow vehicle

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    • #47
      holly lol talk about stripping a car! when is your goal to have it all back together?
      1991 Nissan Skyline R32 GT-R: 710whp 521 ft/lbs 27.5psi 11.8 @126mph low boost

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      • #48
        certainly before the end of may, and hopefully by early may.
        1992 GTR - 2.7L, GT2871R's, forged bottom end, big valves, 270* cams, R34 getrag
        2000 Honda Insight - 70+mpg daily driver
        2003 Sierra 2500HD Diesel - Tow vehicle

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        • #49
          that light you have in the one picture looks like a light sabre. are you going to stitch weld the chasis while you have it apart?
          Last edited by 333; 03-24-2011, 10:19 AM.
          I'm only half evil

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          • #50
            haha, I actually have a force FX lightsaber but it's not in that picture. I am going to stich weld the chassis, actually, I've already started.
            1992 GTR - 2.7L, GT2871R's, forged bottom end, big valves, 270* cams, R34 getrag
            2000 Honda Insight - 70+mpg daily driver
            2003 Sierra 2500HD Diesel - Tow vehicle

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            • #51
              N1 oil pump for a 9 second gtr? I was thinking hks or tomei

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              • #52
                N1 is more than enough, the other stuff is for guys who want to rev over 10,000 rpm. If you keep it below 8500, stock or N1 is fine (I'm stock).


                Jon.
                Why don't you come over to MySpace and Twitter my Yahoo untill I Google all over your Facebook.

                1990 GTR Drag Special T88H34D 11.24 @ 127.55mph at only 1.2bar...... officially. SOLD

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                • #53
                  Originally posted by Dragon Humper View Post
                  N1 is more than enough, the other stuff is for guys who want to rev over 10,000 rpm. If you keep it below 8500, stock or N1 is fine (I'm stock).


                  Jon.
                  I stopped bothering with updates on this board because of all the retards and negative comments.

                  I learned that you can speak with an ignorant person as long as you want, and they still won't learn, so why bother in the first place?

                  Also, rofl at oil pump's determining 1/4 mile times.

                  The stock oil pump's are reasonable. The N1 pumps flow about 15% more and are great (different rotor design, larger capacity, etc) Other pumps are for rich people.
                  1992 GTR - 2.7L, GT2871R's, forged bottom end, big valves, 270* cams, R34 getrag
                  2000 Honda Insight - 70+mpg daily driver
                  2003 Sierra 2500HD Diesel - Tow vehicle

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                  • #54
                    for a 9 second burst, N1 ought to be ok, although you may want to look at oil head drain mods.

                    I've broken an N1 and a JUN pump. Running strong now on a Tomei, but I had to spend thousands upon thousands to upgrade the entire oil system to handle the Tomei's increased flow and pressure. Plus, in August I had the pleasure of my extended sump hitting the road and my sump plug snapped off. 10 liters of oil gushed out (I had shut off the engine of course well before that!), and I was stranded.
                    1991 R32, 2860-5 turbos, build documented on gtr.co.uk, 700bhp on 110RON and 1.9 bars boost.
                    2003 Audi RS6, Eurocharged Stage 2tune, 525bhp and 530lb/ft torque.
                    2010 BMW S1000RR, PCV tune, 210bhp.
                    Regional Chairman, GTR Owners Club, http://gtr.co.uk

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