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Joey - BCNR33 - My diary

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  • Joey - BCNR33 - My diary

    Hi guys! Somehow I just felt like starting this thread about myself.

    Before I even thought about buying my R33 GT-R, I had been long a hardcore player in Gran Turismo 5. I am extremely fast in 550pp~600pp street car races. When I use Ferrari 458 and Mclaren F1 on minimum weight and max downforce, 550pp and 600pp respectively, I can virtually beat any racers online when variables are on my side. The cornering speed of these two cars and corner exit as a rear wheel drive car are just incredible, and I can cope with driving these cars with no ABS, although having ABS is still a HUGE advantage for me. FR cars such as RX-7 and LF-A, because they have no PP penalty of 4WD/MR, have a higher horsepower on the same PP, and I usually use them in courses where straight line accounts more for lap time. Where is GT-R then? When a race is regulated by performance point, GT-R, being 4WD, have less HP. Even when it has excellent corner exit acceleration, it's heavier front end means it must brake a touch earlier than the MR rivals, turn slower than MR, and exit less efficiently if the corner exit is smooth and long. GT-R shines the most when the corner is very tight and the exit is a long straight. Also, all the above are presumed to use racing slick. When traction is limited such as with comfort tires or in rain, GT-R can ALWAYS accelerate with stability and confidence.

    After a period of circuit racing on GT5, I became interested in drifting. Thanks to the realistic feedback of Logitech G27, I was really having fun drifting a Ferrari 599 in Japanese room in GT5. I was amazed how the fully tuned V12 can power the car adequately, smoking tire and breaking traction constantly, ALL IN 4TH GEAR! I started to understand power and torque is really everything in drifting. Without power, you cannot control your drift. With sufficient power, you have more options to command the car into the motion you want it to be in.

    After playing soooo much GT5, I started to consider getting a REAL SPORTS CAR in real life. I had considered the following:

    FD3S: It's rear wheel drive layout and FMR platform means it is a killer in speed. It has the DNA of a formula car, being extremely compact itself, the drivetrain and the chassis. However, in real life it is too DAMN SMALL. The rear seat (Is there one anyway?) are meant for people who have no legs. And Rotary engine is not something I am familiar with, nor I want to be familiar with. I have heard too much about the apex seal being problematic and require a complete rebuild and how sensitive it is to knocking. It has bad gas mileage, too, especially when the engine is ported. OUT

    JZA80: I was REALLY into this car. It has the 2JZGTE and a 6 speed almost bulletproof getrag (the twin turbo model) means by the design of it the car is meant to be banged hard in circuit racing and drifting. However, because it is rear wheel drive, it will always be beaten by a GT-R from a launch start, presuming same tires and similar power is used. Also, the rear seat of the supra is also ridiculously small and the trunk is, in the same way, pathetically small and useless. The engine with a stock stroke of 86mm makes me think it is not very rev happy, and to me rev happy = sportiness. OUT

    As a result, I start to believe Skyline GT-R is most suited to be my ultimate car. Yeah I know the oil pump and its oil system are the weakest link in the car, but given the history and the pedigree, its longitudinally mounted RB26 and a electrically controlled ATTESA, I think the car is extremely versatile, although I kept questioning if I can increase the steering angle with 4WD attached to it!? I think the car is meant to OWN the road with its extremely advanced 4WD and an extremely rigid chassis. It can be transformed to a drift car when ATTESA is disengaged and a proper nismo 2way diff is installed. Then I started to day dream more about installing nitrous and water injection and a huge ass turbo to compliment the car. LMAO. Because I am still young and stupid and I have no experience in buying skyline, I gamble, in the same way a gambler putting all his pet in a roulette in a Casino. I found a R33 from Edmonton with a freshly rebuilt engine with a Tomei 2.8 bottom end with a stock head. I checked the odometer, which showed it had be driven less than 100km after it was rebuilt, and it was on sale for $15000! GOOD DEAL, I thought. Little do I know it is a HUGE money pit as every skyline deserved to be. After I bought the car, it seems to be out of power or missing at about 100km. The wideband is showing 15~16 continuously on highway, and if I clutch in at 100km the engine stalls instantly. Then comes the winter and safety inspection. I spent the rest of my dough in doing the safety inspection and upgrade the fuel system:

    ID 1000cc injector
    Ebay fuel rail 11mm
    Tomei intank fuel pump
    Plumbing of fuel line with braided stainless hoses in engine bay
    Tomei Type L regulator.

    Buying parts comes the addiction. I buy more *useful* parts as I soaked myself in various skyline forum.

    After all this happened, I have two plan for my car:

    Realistic plan:
    GT-SS turbo or equivalent
    HKS Type A V cam + mild exhaust cam OR Tomei Type A poncam
    Okada plasma direct
    Tomei oil pump + restrictor
    HKS suction pipe
    Mine's dump and front pipe
    Aquamist individual port water-methanol injection

    Dream/suicidal/no-life plan:
    Trust complete turbo kit but swap the T78/T88 for a GT4088R
    Hi-octane dry sump
    Okada plasma direct
    Individual wet-fog nitrous
    Aquamist individual port water-methanol injection
    HKS Step Pro V Cam + 280deg 10.5mm lift exhaust
    Take the engine for an engine builder to blue-print for maximum red line

    I plan to install the ETS-Pro attesa controller, RK tuning knock gauge, convert the A-LSD back to 2-way, but yeah I think I should be an enthusiast, not a no-lifer, yet.

    Picture time! The status of car when I got it first time.

    DSCF4073 by Komachi1, on Flickr

    DSCF4075 by Komachi1, on Flickr

    DSCF4077 by Komachi1, on Flickr

    DSCF4074 by Komachi1, on Flickr

    DSCF4079 by Komachi1, on Flickr

    I ripped the "SUMARU RACING" sticker because I don't know them and I don't like any stickers that I don't like being on my car! However I will put this sticker on my fender above side marker light because I love Initial D despite the fact that my tyres are Federal 595S hahahhhahahaha


    Untitled by Komachi1, on Flickr
    Last edited by leung23c; 04-02-2013, 01:55 AM.

  • #2
    Installing Autobahn88 ebay intercooler kit. Quality is good! But the lug nut hole seems a bit off....Is it designed for R34 and for R33 users we need to drill a hole? Looks like that way


    01-04-2013 by Komachi1, on Flickr

    01-04-2013 by Komachi1, on Flickr

    01-04-2013 by Komachi1, on Flickr

    01-04-2013 by Komachi1, on Flickr

    01-04-2013 by Komachi1, on Flickr

    Comment


    • #3
      I really want to appreciate every person who input their experience and knowledge online! Can't do it without you guys help! I have been having fun soldering wires and doing stuff to my car hahahaha! Car is almost done but lack some fuel line fitting due to me being an inexperienced amateur and I suck at planning ahead. Decided on twin entry fuel rail versus single entry because twin entry is COOLER! and I love being COOL~

      Comment


      • #4
        Summit racing fitting suck ass!!!!! ******* useless piece of ****!!!! I bought 5 90 degree swivel an-6 fitting and they all leak at the swivel joint!!! I was so pissed off when they charge me $17 for each !!! The hose is seated properly and the an flare are perfect...but the swivel part spray fuel in my face when I put the slightest pressure on it during testing.... Except the straight hose end they are worse than useless...then comes the Earl's one... They don't leak at all that's all I care about....anyway new plumbing is done....oh yeah even the summit racing straight hose end sucks ass too...I took it apart after assembly and one of it sheered off due to metal fatigue....seriously...**** you summit racing...never ever I will buy their brand although their distributor network is awesome LMFAO


        Fuel plumbing bcnr33 by Komachi1, on Flickr
        Last edited by leung23c; 04-24-2013, 09:20 PM.

        Comment


        • #5
          Sucks to here that. Are you using any thread sealant, assembly lube? I don't know if that will help at all. I chose jegs fittings as they are made from the same place as aeroquip.

          You should definitely contact summit and let them know your situation
          “Hey, come on, its a car right? No. It’s a symbol of your history, its a thread of continuity from which you came to where you are. It’s important that you don’t want to forget who you are.” -Dr.Phil in "Love the Beast"

          Comment


          • #6
            Yes I will send the stuff back to summit racing. They said attache the parts with the invoice and they will verify at their end.

            Status tuning from Australia had given me some advices that I don't need to put injector latency correction value but instead put the dead time scale and flow rate of the base fuel pressure I choose and go from there.

            My car wouldn't run after I think i put the "correct" setting....have contacted RS-tuning and they said they will tune my engine remotely to get running as long as I have a fast internet and a wideband....I am amazed haha.

            I am not an arrogant person, nor will I want to be one. But the frustration is too great. I don't know what's wrong right now...I love cars, i have a passion about it, I love greater efficiency by greater engineering and product quality. however frustration is just kind of overwhelming me....I am not giving up yet....

            Stuff I have checked so far:

            Engine getting good compression for a newly rebuilt engine: 125~psi all across with one cylinder 160psi
            Have good sparks: visually checked with coil and plug attached outside during cranking.
            Have injector pulses: by looking at FC commander
            Have flow meter voltage: by looking at FC commander

            Option 1: give up all I have done so far and install stock injector, stock rail and stock ECU back....
            Option 2: retain ID1000 injector, continue my endless diagnoses and ask for help, and hope RS-tuning will do their magic, once again....

            I named my car Hitler LMAO, because it is something that is great and needed to be conquered by the greater! WINSTON CHURCHILL!

            Sorry I am too frustrated and I am high.....

            Comment


            • #7
              Oh yeah forgot to say one of the fuel rail hole starts leaking when I set the base pressure at 60psi....Kind of understand why people love Japanese parts.....I don't know if it is ebay fuel rail quality issue yet...but yes it starts leaking crazy when pressure is at 60psi.....what a shame

              Comment


              • #8
                If you do have a 2.8 lower end you might want to consider larger turbo's than the gt-ss. The GT-SS were designed to be the ultimate response turbo for a stock displacement rb26. Even guys with stock displacement motors that crave high end power find that they run out of steam to quick. Also for your current power goals 1000cc injectors are pretty large and its been proven that the stock fuel rail with a highflow pump and slightly larger (600-700cc) injctors will flow more than enough fuel. My last point is that unless your stock intercooler was damaged there is really no reason to replace it...especially with an inferior ebay one. Im not trying to hate on your build but based on your posted goals you are at a high risk of pissing away a lot of money and ending up with a lot of headaches for no meaningful gains in performance.

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