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  • Replaced Engine, Still running into a few issues

    hey guys, i have some issues I need to diagnose, i Bought a new engine and it runs (test drove it in another skyline, sounded and drove perfectly) but now at idle i'm having this intermittent knock coming from the bottom end, it seems pretty random, possibly because i have a lot of things disconnected or maybe it has some old gas in it. I'll need to check the spark plug gapping and coil packs before making any more guesses

    issues/concerns are as follows

    1). High oil pressure at idle (8kg/cm^2 and drops to about 4 after a couple seconds), previous owner of the motor said he had autodream in Calgary replace the bearings with ACL race bearings and a new oil pump (Brand unknown)

    2). I'm losing some coolant out the bottom because I probably have the heater hoses connected improperly so if anyone has a diagram that would be great

    3). This one is the strangest, The car runs on its own power when it's on but when you try to turn it over it seems like it has insufficient power, i replaced the battery with a brand new one yesterday and double checked the grounds but it just doesnt want to crank, it'll start when i hook i up to a booster pack and new battery and then run fine after i disconnect all the other stuff required to boost it. Any ideas?

    4). There's one rogue vacuum line (nicknamed by allan the rebel line) marked in orange on the diagram, apparently I'm too dumb to figure out that one but i have no idea where the inlet is for that particular one.



    Will post a video of the noise later


    Thanks for any feedback in advance,

    Cheers


    Sawyer, 1991 GT-R


    Last edited by sawyer779; 06-26-2015, 04:35 AM. Reason: Added video

  • #2
    1.) N1 oilpump has a shimmed relief spring. Around 4kg is normal oil pressure for a stock oilpump when oil is cold. I think around 1kg when warm. But I think R32 GTR has 8 psi higher oil pressure than stock R32 GTS-T oil pump.

    2.) Buy a translated engine manual -

    Nissan - R32 Skyline engine Workshop Service Manual in English Workshop manual for the Japanese Import model R32. Brand new item. This 563 page manual has been translated from the original Japanese handbook into English and is very professional with full illustrations. These handbooks are great to compliment your vehicle and add value for resale Model Number:  R32 Engine


    3.) Check the starter. Usually it needs a rebuild. I think it's the same starter as used on Nissan Forklifts (mounts are slightly different), so can get rebuild kits for the starter.

    4.) If around 6mm ID it probably is the vacuum hose to the top of BOV x2.
    RESPONSE MONSTER

    The most epic signature ever "epic".

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    • #3
      You've spun a bearing on the crank, hate to be the bearer of bad news
      "LAG is the time the guy beside you thought he won"

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      • #4
        i'm not sure how thats possible, I drove and checked the engine before we took it out of the old GTR with no knock and now it's in the new chassis and it's knocking. It doesnt make sense but if you think its a possibility thats kind of a let down :/

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        • #5
          Oil pressure would drop dramatically (near 0) if it's spun a bearing and hear a knocking sound from the bottomend.

          Audible engine knock sounds similar to nails in a tin can.

          Sometimes turbo's can make a knocking noise if compressor wheel is out of balance and touching the compressor housing (can be heard at idle). That's if you didn't prime the turbo's with oil before starting engine.

          You do this by pulling CAS plug off and crank engine until oil reaches the turbo's, reconnect the CAS, clear CAS error code (disconnect negative on battery, press brake pedal, reconnect negative battery terminal), start engine.

          Or some fill the CHRA on turbo with oil, then fit to engine.
          RESPONSE MONSTER

          The most epic signature ever "epic".

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          • #6
            Have you played with the ex manifolds? A worn out manifold gasket can sound like a knocking engine especially if its a metal one.

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            • #7
              The oil pressure drop won't necessarily be dramatic, we just did a engine swap because of a spun rod bearing and the knock was very intermittent. So intermittent actually that when we drained the oil and put rotella 5w40 in it it virtually went away. No he thought about selling it but that wouldn't be the right thing to do so swapped a used engine in and tore the old one down and sure as sh*t one of the bearings was effed. Now I'm not saying this is what's Happening with your engine but it's a possibility. Once you hear bottom end knock there's no mistaking it, do you have any mechanic friends that would come and look at it for you ?
              "LAG is the time the guy beside you thought he won"

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              • #8
                I'm not saying you are wrong (might have caught it early on before it got worse), just from what I have seen the oil pressure is very low, near to 0 and the sound was constant on both RB engines I have seen that spun bearings. One RB26 had 5th, 6th bottomend brearing fail first and was said it was due to clutch (I assume clutch was making the crank walk).

                The bottomend bearing failure sounds similar to a hammer on metal bench sound.
                RESPONSE MONSTER

                The most epic signature ever "epic".

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                • #9
                  Late to the party but that orange vac line source is directly below the yellow one. If you need a pic I have an old 26 to take a picture of it.
                  @teabagjuice - instagram

                  R34 saloon - RB26 Twin 20g build

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                  • #10
                    Any updates on this? I have the same exact knocking noise on my rb26..

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