R34 vs R33 vs R34 RB26DETT

[CanadianGTR]

Alright, so I'm wondering EXACTLY what the differences are... I know the R34 uses VVL and has individual ignitor.. and a 6-spd tranny... but other than that is there any major diff?

I know they solved the oil pump drive issue and other small stuff...

Basically.. will any aftermarket gear I have on my R32 RB26DETT swap over to an R34... mainly the HKS hard pipes... however... if I upgrade the turbos... ill get custom manifolds / charge pipes anyway.

Also, when putting an R34 engine into an R32... is there anything aside from the usual parts (harness + ecu) that I will need?
I'm not keeping HICAS, so dont worry about giving advice on how to make that work. :wink:

[S14 Drift!]

Re: R34 vs R33 vs R34 RB26DETT

Alright, so I'm wondering EXACTLY what the differences are... I know the R34 uses VVL and has individual ignitor.. and a 6-spd tranny... but other than that is there any major diff?

I know they solved the oil pump drive issue and other small stuff...

Basically.. will any aftermarket gear I have on my R32 RB26DETT swap over to an R34... mainly the HKS hard pipes... however... if I upgrade the turbos... ill get custom manifolds / charge pipes anyway.

Also, when putting an R34 engine into an R32... is there anything aside from the usual parts (harness + ecu) that I will need?
I'm not keeping HICAS, so dont worry about giving advice on how to make that work. :wink:

R34 RB26DETT doesn't have VVL only the RB25DET R34.

[BigBlueR32]

Re: R34 vs R33 vs R34 RB26DETT

Alright, so I'm wondering EXACTLY what the differences are... I know the R34 uses VVL and has individual ignitor.. and a 6-spd tranny... but other than that is there any major diff?

I know they solved the oil pump drive issue and other small stuff...

Basically.. will any aftermarket gear I have on my R32 RB26DETT swap over to an R34... mainly the HKS hard pipes... however... if I upgrade the turbos... ill get custom manifolds / charge pipes anyway.

Also, when putting an R34 engine into an R32... is there anything aside from the usual parts (harness + ecu) that I will need?
I'm not keeping HICAS, so dont worry about giving advice on how to make that work. :wink:

R34 RB26DETT doesn't have VVL only the RB25DET R34.

Yeah the NEO engine.. RB25DET Neo.. the engine is good.. Nissan didn't make a 4WD model because the performance would be too much like a GTR

[CanadianGTR]

Re: R34 vs R33 vs R34 RB26DETT

Alright, so I'm wondering EXACTLY what the differences are... I know the R34 uses VVL and has individual ignitor.. and a 6-spd tranny... but other than that is there any major diff?

I know they solved the oil pump drive issue and other small stuff...

Basically.. will any aftermarket gear I have on my R32 RB26DETT swap over to an R34... mainly the HKS hard pipes... however... if I upgrade the turbos... ill get custom manifolds / charge pipes anyway.

Also, when putting an R34 engine into an R32... is there anything aside from the usual parts (harness + ecu) that I will need?
I'm not keeping HICAS, so dont worry about giving advice on how to make that work. :wink:

R34 RB26DETT doesn't have VVL only the RB25DET R34.

Oh yah? What did the RB26 have that was special about it... crap. It was something... I get them all mixed up... so many damn nissan engines. :P

I pm'd sean morris about it.

[JZ]

Here's some info :P

RB Series Swap

Background on one the most potent series of engines Nissan ever created.

The Engines

• RB20E
• Bore & Stroke
• Capacity
• Power
• Compression • Single cam
• 78 X 69.7
• 1998
• 130ps @5600
• 17.5kg's @4000
• 9.5 to 1

• The RB20E is the base model of the nissan RB series Its a single cam 2.0 liter.
• This engine was used for company cars etc where fuel consumption was required.
• It features in the r33 r34 series of skylines both 4 door and 2 door and came in manual or automatic.

• RB20DE
• Bore & Stroke
• Capacity
• Power
• Compression • Twin cam
• 78 X 69.7
• 1998
• 165ps @5600
• 19kg's @4000
• 10.2 to 1




• The RB20DE is the twin cam version of the above it is a great free reving engine.
• The engine is refined and provides very good power for its capacity.
• The engine is used in the R32 Skyline GTS models.It is economical and sporty in both auto and manual.

• RB20DET
• Bore & Stroke
• Capacity
• Power
• Compression • Twin cam
• 78 X 69.7
• 1998
• 210ps @5600
• 25kg's @4000
• 8.5 to 1


• The RB20DET is the performance 2 liter engine with good allround perfromance and reliability.
• This engine responds well to modificaton and can make 400hp with the stock bottom end.
• It features in the R32 series of skylines both 4 door and 2 door & 4WDand came in manual or automatic.
• The automatic like all nissans makes about 5 hp less

• RB25DE
• Bore & Stroke
• Capacity
• Power
• Compression • Twin cam
• 86 X 71.7
• 2498
• 190ps @5600
• 23.5kg's @4800
• 10 to 1



• The RB25DE is the middlebrother of the nissan RB series Its a Twin cam 2.5 liter.
• This engine is very torquey and is great if you don't require turbo performance.
• It features in the R23 R33 R34 series of Skylines both 4 door and 2 door and came in manual or automatic.
• also is came in the R33 & R34 gts-4 so that the gtr had no competion.

• RB25DET
• Bore & Stroke
• Capacity
• Power
• Compression • Twin cam
• 86 X 71.7
• 2498
• 250ps @5600
• 30kg's @4800
• 9 to 1



• The RB25DE is the main turbo Nissan RB engine it has a ceramic turbo and high compression for good power.
• This engine invery torquey and resonds well to modification 450 hp has been achived .
• It features in the R33 R34 series of skylines both 4 door and 2 door and came in manual or automatic.

Engine weight: 720lbs with cross memebers and accessories

• RB26DETT
• Bore & Stroke
• Capacity
• Power
• Compression • Twin cam
• 86 X 73.7
• 2568
• 280ps @5600
• 37.5kg's @4000
• 8.5 to 1


• The RB26DETT is the King of the Nissan RB series its a 2.6 liter twin turbo solid camed engine.
• This engine is race extensively and has produce 1400hp and around 600 hp with stock internals.
• It features in the R32,R33 ,R34 series of skyline Gtr's.
• These cars are nicknamed godzilla for their strengh on the race
• track featuring 4wd twin turbo's they are almost unbeatable on the track.

• RB30DET
• Bore & Stroke
• Capacity
• Power
• Compression • Twin cam
• 86 X 86
• 2998 approx
• 400ps +
• too much... @4000
• 7.5 to 1


• The RB30DET is a hybrid of the Nissan RB series It is custom made by specalist tuners.
• This engine can produce 6-800 hp at low revs eg 7500 due to its capacity.
• It features in all types of Skyline there are three variants of it RB 20/30 RB25/30 RB26/30
• This engine uses the block of the Australia only engine theRB30 which is Single Cam
• This mean the cylinder head featured on the engine.The rb25 and 26 both sit without to much problem
• but the rb20 requires extensive work to both block and head for it to fit.

• RB30ET
• Bore & Stroke
• Capacity
• Power
• Compression • Single cam
• 86 X 85
• 2962
• 200ps @5600
• 27.0kg's @4000
• 8.5 to 1


• The RB30ET is the Turbo model of the Australian Nissan RB series Its a single cam 3.0 liter.
• This engine makes 400 hp fairly easy and has made 800 hp it has run 9.4 down the 1/4 mile in a Commodore.
• This engine was used exclusively in the Holden (GM) commodore 1986-1988.It came in manual or automatic.
• See some of the cars this engine is in (click here)


• RB30E
• Bore & Stroke
• Capacity
• Power
• Compression • Single cam
• 86 X 85
• 2962
• 160ps @5600
• 17.5kg's @4000
• 9.5 to 1

• The RB30e is the base model of the Australian Nissan RB series Its a single cam 3.0 liter
• This engine was used for company cars etc where fuel consumption was required.
• This engine was used in the Holden (GM) commodore 1986-1988.Also the Nissan Skyline R31 Made in Australia.
• It came in manual or automatic.

• RB30DE
• Bore & Stroke
• Capacity
• Power
• Compression • Twin cam
• 86 X 86.7
• 2998
• 250ps @7000approx
• 30.5kg's @4000
• 9.5 to 1



• The RB30DE is is an N/A hybrid race engine. This engine is used for racing.and was not in production

*The above information was borrowed from Meggla.com

Injector Types:

RB20 det uses top feed high impedance injectors 270cc
RB25 uses side feed high impedance injectors 370cc these are the same as the sr 20 det.
RB26 uses top feed low impedance injectors. 440cc
SR20 uses side feed high impedance 370cc injectors (same as rb25)
VG30dett uses side feed high impedance 370 cc injectors (same as above)
N/A engines I have not included these but are generally smaller than their turbo counter parts.
rb30 e & et 250cc low impedance

rb30 e & et 250cc low impedance



RB Install

This will be a general guideline as to what you need for a nice clean install for the RB20 and RB25 series engines. Some of the information is debatable and more often then not some people use different methods to install that others say would never work. The RB swap has a lot of grey area surrounding it so any information you hear that’s different then the above is subject to opinion.

For an RB25 swap it has been said that clearance issues with the swaybars may arise. There are oil pans now made to avoid the sways. However if you get “lucky” your stock pan may clear the sways.

Engine: Night has shown that the RB25 can be installed using the R33 cross-member and the R33 engine mounts. However some people have claimed that the shifter sits to far forward if you use the r33 mounts and cross member and that you need to use special mounts that McKinney Motorsports sells. All in all the engine has about 2 inches total of play, forwards and backwards in the engine bay, which should be enough to get the engine to mount properly with the shifter located nicely in its hole.

Tranny: To mount the tranny all you need to do is flip the stock tranny mount 180 degrees and the RB25 tranny or rb20 will slide right in.

Driveshaft: Due to the difference in length of the r33 to the 240 the Rb driveshaft is about half an inch long, but there a 3 different ways this can be solved…

1) Take the R33 shaft in and get it shortened and re-balanced to match (within .5" less) the KA driveshaft.

2) Take the KA shaft in and have a R33 (90-96 300Z non-turbo) yolk put on instead

3) Get a custom shaft built 1/2" shorter than the KA shaft using a single tube and the RB (90-96 300Z non-turbo) yolk.

Thanks to Black Apple for this..

To make a custom driveshaft, attach both front and rear yokes, measure between them and subtract 1" for driveshaft play. Then take the yokes and measurements to a drivshaft shop and tell them what you want do and give them the measurements.

Also you can also use the KA driveshaft on the R31 RB20DET engines, so there is no mods needed there, however, the cross members on the R31 engines have a different bolt pattern so you would need to re-drill one hole on each side in order to use it.

Here is an example of the kit you can purchase from McKinney Motorsports for the RB25 swap it includes the motor and trans adapter and rear crossmember with new mounts for installing the RB25 motor

The above kit with drive shaft is $1150usd and $600usd without

*Note* McKinney also apparently in the works for a RB26DETT mounting kit.

Interior: From what I’ve read the speedometer remains in working order however due to the new redline of the rb series engines a couple things are required. You can swap out the entire cluster for a Skyline one, you can transplant the tach into the KA cluster, and I believe some companies such as mckinney are working on tach adapters for the ka->rb swaps. However with the skyline cluster is doesn’t fit quite as nicely as some people would like to hope.

Clearence: There are a few major clearance issues. The engine sits higher then the KA and the SR do in most cases, so some cutting of the hood skeleton is required. Another major issue is the position of the shifter, if it sit to far forward you wont be able to shift into 1st, 3rd or 5th. The final issues are the clearance problems with the front swaybars hitting the oil pan.

The RB26det as many of you know would be a baddass engine to drop into a 240, however their are some huge problems with clearence of the twin turbos. Generally speaking this swap is almost always accompanied by the single turbo exhaust manifold, in which a big turbo normally sits. The downside to this is the loss of response due to the increased size of the turbo which was supposed to be reduced by the smaller quicker spooling turbos. Thus defeating the purpose of the egnine almost entirely. The clearence issue involves the steering colomb and in most cases the shock tower also. I believe it's the downpipe that makes contact.

I found a little blurb from SCC that stated the following on their install into an S14

The steering U-joint and the downpipe are friendly if you use the R33 crossmember. Your options are to notch the downpipe, which may or may not work, make a custom downpipe, buy a downpipe from Super Tuner Motorsports, have unStable Hybrids make a new downpipe starting with your casting, or use the McKinney Motorsports mounts. If you do notch the stock downpipe, be sure to leave plenty of space, as the engine will move, and your steering is important.This is a good time to check the condition of the U-joint. Ours was sticky and notchy in its movement. The joint will be seeing a lot of heat from the downpipe, so a fresh joint is good preventative maintenance anyway.

This may vary for the s13s

Wiring: Similar to the SR wiring the RB uses it’s own engine harness and the regular 240sx interior harnesses.

Parts required for an RB swap (Written by Pavel):

RB25DET – Engine, get it where ever you want, has to have uncut harness, ECU, etc. Front Clip is more desirable. Make sure that it’s a type II engine as well, it’s newer and it’s got a better ECU on it. The wiring will be the same, but I think the way to identify it, is there will be 2 plugs instead of one at the throttle body.

RB25DET Oil pan – $269 – McKinney
Chances are your oil pan will be damaged if you have purchased the engine. Also the sway bars have a problem fitting with a stock oil pan, so just to be safe; I would get a new one.

RB25 motor adapter kit w/Drive Shaft - $1150 – McKinney
Highly recommend getting new mounts. They can also be purchased from Unstable-hybrids, but McKinney mounts are already known for the craftsmanship, and I trust their quality.
The engine will be sitting lower, thus no modification to the hood will be required to clear the engine, and it will be sitting further back, bringing the shifter back slightly more, and giving you more space in front of the engine for a performance radiator and an electric fan. The driveshaft is also a good idea, since you will need to upgrade it sooner or later anyway. Personally I don’t want to go and get the stock driveshaft redone because I don’t want to lose my legs if it somehow breaks. Once again, I trust McKinney motor sports on this one. (One thing though, you will have to modify your firewall a tiny little bit for the compressor to fit, by saying modify I mean put a hammer to it and bang it back about an inch, it will not do any real damage, but it will have to be done, so expect it)

GReddy Intake Manifold - $679 – Phase2Motortrend.com
I personally would not enjoy wasting an hour of my time taking off the stock intake manifold just to get to the spark plugs on the engine. The stock manifold passes close to the turbo, which means that it doesn’t provide the greatest cooling. It will require a lot of piping if you would want to go with a FMIC, and it will also require a modification of the bracket in order to make the throttle cable work. Aftermarket manifold is a good idea in this case. A simpler and cheaper version is also made by Unstable-hybrids.com, but I personally do not like the actual design of it, and I trust GReddy slightly more than UH.

MAFS
Z32 MAFS is used by many people who have done RB swaps. Clearly the best MAFS to use would be the stock one, but unless you received the front clip, you will probably not have it. So go junk-yard scouting and find Z32 MAFS for this project. (You might have to use some sort of fuel management system, i.e. Apex’i SAFC-II to properly tune the engine).

Walbro Fuel Pump – $119 – Heavy Throttle
Your stock fuel pump WILL NOT be able to provide enough fuel for this engine, so if you want to prevent fuel starvation you have to get this simple and relatively inexpensive pump. VG30DETT fuel pump will also work (z32 twin turbo), but I would recommend just getting walbro from my experience.
R32, R33 pumps have also been know to be used with this setup, of course from a cost perspective, it would have to be cheap for it to make sense to use.

Air Intake – Blitz LM Intake w/z32 MAFS adapter - $125 – Heavy Throttle
Any air intake will work in this case. Prices range from $50 to $200, it’s up to you what you want to get. I personally prefer Blitz or Apex’i intakes.

Koyo Aluminum Radiator - $340 Shipped – McKinney
I had really good experience with Koyo, and I will stand by this radiator. Make sure that when you buy a radiator for your RB swap, remember that the Inlet and the Outlet on it have to be on the same side (similar to KA radiator), unlike the SR (which have to be on different sides)

BOV – GReddy Type-R BOV - $215 – Heavy Throttle
I liked this BOV on the SR, I would get the same BOV for the RB. I have also recently found out that you can buy an upgraded spring for the Type-R as well. Stiffer spring prevents boost leaks, and it already comes with a stiff spring.
- HKS SSQV- $250 - HKS USA
This BOV has a much different design then your average BOV.
HKS Super Sequential Blowoff Valves (SSQV) are dual stage pull type relief valves that by design do not leak under high boost conditions or under idle vacuum because it isn't activated by boost pressure directed onto a spring mechanism. This BOV actually has a primary and secondary valve that helps to increase it's response under low and high boost apps. The smaller secondary valve opens under little boost but utilizes it's larger primary valve to get rid of the high boost pressure. It is actuated by pressure alterations to ensure a quick primary and secondary valve response. For more information on how it works: http://www.hksusa.com/products/more.asp?id=793

FMIC – GReddy RSPL for s13/s14- $899 – Heavy Throttle
I really like this intercooler, like the way it’s made, like the quality and the size. It also comes with 6 silicone couplings (if I remember correctly), which means that it’ll save you time and money finding the right rubber coupling in the plumbing section of Canadian Tire. This intercooler comes with aluminum 3” piping, the piping is designed for the SR20DET, which means that the Drivers side piping will be the same; the passenger side piping will also be quite similar but will require modification to ensure a perfect fit. (I am not 100% certain about what kind of modifications will have to be done, but I think that another 3” pipe extension will have to be used)

Hotpipe
Sorry to say this, but you really don’t have much options on this one. Custom made is the only way to go. You can make it yourself if you have a pipe-bender. I believe the hot-pipe will have to be 2.5” in diameter; it will have to from the turbo elbow to the driver’s side intercooler piping.

BOV Flange GReddy Steel/Aluminum flange - $25/$29 – Heavy Throttle
I would place the BOV closer to the throttle body of the engine (which means that if there will be an extension required for the intercooler piping, I would put it on that extension or of course u can place it on the hotpipe. You have to choose whether you want it to be steel or aluminum according to what material you use for your piping.
-HKS Steel/Aluminum flange - - $35-$50 -HKS USA
This is the flange for the HKS SSQV, you can get it with different diameter openings.

Turbo Extension (Dump Pipe) HKS Non-turbulence Dump Pipe - $572
To do a proper engine build-up, you will have to get this bolt on at one time or another. But after seeing the price of this small piece, it makes me wonder if you really need this. The steering rack/dump pipe problem should be solved with the new engine mounts.

Downpipe
Sorry to break it to you, but you will need to have a custom made one. After expensive search, I was not able to find anything that will bolt up to your stock turbo extension and work with your exhaust system. Make sure to have it made from stainless steel, and it has to be 3” (you want to free up some air flow). You can buy one from Unstable-hybrids, but it will only work with their own mounts.

Exhaust
Do whatever you want, as long as it’s 3”, and don’t forget to run a cat; we all want to be environmentally friendly

Wiring Harness
Make sure that you keep your KA wiring harness, just like the SR swap, you’re going to have to use the lower harness from the KA, just remember that you will have to change the electronic speed sensor from the KA and put it into your RB instead of the mechanical one that RB uses. This will get your speedometer working. As for your tachometer, your best bet would probably be to find RB cluster, take the Tach from there and place it into your KA cluster. Of course, McKinney are working on a resistor right now, to make your stock KA tach work, but until it comes out, you really don’t have that many choices.

Spark Plugs
NGK BPR-6E11s gapped at 0.9 mm are great running stock boost on the RB25DET. Find them, get them.
*Note* Is has been said that Genuine NGK platinum plugs do not work well with the RB and high boost applications. The copper plug with a smaller gap performs very well without spark blowout, and costs less then the plats.

Fuel Filter – Z32 - $40 – Local Nissan Dealer
Just like in an SR swap, it would be a good idea to replace your fuel filter with a z32 one. It fits in the place of your old filter, even though it’s thicker.

All the prices listed are in US dollars.

Heater Hoses
If you’re doing a swap into an s14, your stock heater hoses will work, with slight modification. So this will save you some money. If you’re swapping an RB into an s13, I have no idea, sorry

Short Shifters - SR/CA/KA/RB can accept the same OBX style short-shifter, however we have not verified that the C's or B&M shifter will work from one tranny to another. Technically the C's shifter should work if the obx assembly does because the OBX is a replica of the C's design.

In total, the swap will come out to cost around $10,000+ CDN assuming that you do the engine swap yourself and you know how to do your own wiring. And you will be automatically putting down over 350hp at the wheels with the upgrades I listed (as well as a slight increase in boost to 15psi)

Extras (You don't need them, but it would be nice to have them):
Apexi Power FC - $ 880.00 - The Power FC is a standalone engine management system. (No Danger To Manifold screens here ) It completely replaces your stock ecu with a more asthetically pleasing brushed alloy case with the Apex logo stamped on it. The unit can come with an optional backlit led display controller that allows you to monitor and adjust various maps, limits, and sensor inputs. The Power FC can laso be hooked up to a laptop and your monitoring can be done in high resolution colour. The controller is used for three functions - displaying engine data, Monitor Mode , displaying and then reprogramming engine management maps,Settings Mode , and an 'Etc' mode. In its Monitor mode, any two of the following factors can be displayed on the screen: Injector Duty Cycle, Ignition Timing, Airflow Meter Output Voltage, Engine RPM, Road Speed, Boost Pressure, Knock Sensor Output, Coolant Temp, Intake Air Temp, and Battery Voltage. The pair that is displayed can be selected, so you can have Boost and Knock Sensor output, for example. In addition to displaying this data numerically in real time, a line graph function can be enabled, allowing the easy spotting of spikes, such as those occurring in the knock sensor output when detonation occurs. When used on a vehicle with an RB series motor, the Power FC is set up to work with a Apexi Boost Controller, and if you dont have one the engine will constantly stall unless you send it back to get reprogrammed, or you run the FC in non-boost mode. From there anything is possible, such as making the check engine light blink when detonation is sensed, then you can at the same time adjust the times and virtually tune your vehicle while on the fly or in the pits. However at this time there are no ignition timing correction charts which make tuning A/F a certain rpms, loads, and air temps a little hit or miss. As well the Power FC did not accept Nissans service tool and in fact appears to have no self-diagnosis facility at all.


***UPDATED: January 21, 2004***


Difference Between Type 1 and Type 2 Rb25DETS

Type 1 – Years 93-94

- Has one ignitor chip
- Garret turbos with steel compressor wheels
- Look near back of plate covering the plugs, black box with 2 plugs, one to the harness, one to the plugs (type 2 doesn’t have this box)

Type 2 – Years 95-98

- No single ignitor chip on plug cover, all integrated internally
- Where a type 1 has a black box and 2 plugs, the Type 2 has a connector plugged into another connector
- 2 throttle position sensor plugs on the throttle body
- Nissan badged turbo with plastic composite compressor wheel, and ceramic exhaust turbine

Here are the years according the numbers on the chassis tags on the firewall. You can use this sheet to tell the year of your engine by the chassis plate number and thus whether it is type 1 or type 2.



Notes

- Kanji characters in bottom right hand of the chassis plate/placard on the firewall of the vehicle stands for the plant number the car was produced in.




- ECR33 93-94 had a separate ignitor chip
- ECR33 95-98 had ignitors built into the coil packs
- RC43 is an example of an axel number. The 43 equates to a 4.3 differential/rear end
- Production date is on the inside of the driver’s door jamb



Replacement Part Numbers: You run this engine like you should and your going to have to replace stuff. Here are some part numbers for some of those parts.

Alternator Belt - 335k4
Oil Filter - KA filter
Fuel Filter - 300zx filter
O2 sensors - 22690-73L11
Clutch RB25 - 300zx N/A
Thermostat for all RB engines - 90-93 300zx TT 21200-42L00
High Flow Thermostat (recommended for offroad only) - Nismo 21200-42L05
Clutch RB20 - Sr20det clutch
RB20DET coils -22433 60U01 or 22433 60U02 same as 1994 Infiniti q45 coils 1 and 2
Gasket Sets - http://www.swmotorsport.com/
Gaskets - Can be made from Summit Racing MRG-9615 HIGH PRESSURE GASKET MATERIAL 11-13 $5.39 Used where extreme heat and pressure sealing are required, like exhaust gaskets. Poly bagged. 1/16" x 12" x 18" sheet
Spark Plugs - NGK BPR-6E11 Gapped 0.9mm
More to come...




RB20 exclusive part # section:

N1 Oil pump 15010-24U01

Oil filter 15208-00003 (KA24DE)
Genuine Nissan 15208-H8911 (AUS)
Genuine Nissan 15208-H8904
Ryco Z145A
Valvoline R9

Fuel filter 16400-53J10 16400-00002 (VG30DE, VG30DETT)
***Subaru Forester filter works

Fuel pump 17042-00003 (VG30DETT)

Fuel injectors
Denso 440cc 195500-2010
non-turbo, 1989-1991 Mazda RX7
Denso 550cc 195500-2020
turbo, 1989-1991 Mazda RX7

Thermostat 21200-42L00 21200-00001 (VG30DE, VG30DETT)
Nismo Thermostat 21200-42L05

Clutch
***1990-1996 VG30DE shares same clutch assembly

Spark plugs 22401-000036 (VG30DE, VG30DETT???)
NGK standard 1.1mm PFR5A-11
NGK Iridium 0.8mm T7341T-8
Trust-Greddy Iridium 0.8mm IT08

Water pump 21010-21T25
N1 21010-24U27

Coil packs 22433-60U02
***RB20DE, RB20DET, VG30DE, VG30DETT, RB25DE share same coil packs ???

Rod bolts
ARP 202-6005 ???

O2 sensor (which one?) 22690-73L11

Alternator belt 11720-24U00
Timing belt 13028-20P10
13028-20P25 (boxed)
Power steering belt 11950-04U00
AC belt 11920-42L01
Fan belt ??? 11720-42L02

Sump washer 11026-01M02

Air flow meter 22680-02U00

Speedo drive gearbox end 32702-58S21


Links:

https://www.meggala.com

http://www.night7racing.com/

https://www.nissaninfiniticlub.net

https://www.freshalloy.com

http://www.mckinneymotorsports.com/sale.php

http://www.geocities.com/davehoos/cnor31.html <- Some other part numbers.
http://www.rbforums.com/parts/rb20.htm <- Awsome part number list for RB20 engines, however it's aussie.