Ignition Circuit Problem!

[stevodude]

So I bought a 93 skyline gtr last week, and after about 10 min of driving it sputters really bad though entire rev range. My ecu gave me the 21 code, so I have to check my coils if they are working right. Problem is I dont know anyone with a multimeter!
If anyone would help my me fix my car so its running 100% thats in the Edmonton area that would be great since I just bought this car and im low on cash.
I have 12 extra coils/extra injectors and new spark plugs.

Thanks!

[derk]

dude.. go buy one, they arent that expensive, and its probably not going to be the only time you'll use it.

[NismoS-tune]

Sounds like you need to part it till you fix it. What does your car sound like? Subaru?

[DarkCaporaL]

dude.. go buy one, they arent that expensive, and its probably not going to be the only time you'll use it.

You can buy the Crappy Tire special for like 8$.


Problem probably coil related, since that's the error the ECU gave you, and the fact that it only starts to do it when they get warmer (resistance in the coils gets higher and they start to miss).

You could always try and switch them out with the ones you have, but would be better to test them with a meter first. You wouldn't want to change bad ones with bad ones.

[stevodude]

Hahah yes It sounds like a subaru after about ten minutes of driving it.
Oh I didnt know that they were so cheap, ill check tonight.

[NismoS-tune]

Bad coil. That's all.

[judasentinel]

Bad ignitor or ignition wiring?

[Age23]

Hi my name is Adrian i drive a 1990 4 door skyline with an rb25det engine rb20det engine wiring and rb20det ecu. i have the same problem when i get to 3,000 rpm its feel like the engine cuts out of fuel like power loss. can anyone help me out. thanks

[NismoS-tune]

Is the engine limited around 3000rpm or gets worse about that? That can be the difference between a bad MAF or bad coil.

If the engine seems to limit around 2-3000rpm and runs real rich, check MAF wiring, clean it or replace MAF if you have a spare.

If it runs like that at all RPM ranges, disconnect the ignition coils 1 by 1 (reconnect as you go) until you disconnect one that makes no changes to the idle, then replace it.

[Velders]

http://forums.gtrcanada.com/gts-tech...ion-26010.html

This link has a pretty good list of stuff to try, that and what NismoS-tune said helped narrow it down for me.

[Gregzilla]

easy test for coils is to unplug them one at a time while the engine is running, if you don't notice a difference in the idle, that's where you have a problem. same can be done with injectors. as for as testing coils with a multimeter, you can really only test the primary coil and still have a problem in the secondary coil.

[NismoS-tune]

easy test for coils is to unplug them one at a time while the engine is running, if you don't notice a difference in the idle, that's where you have a problem. same can be done with injectors. as for as testing coils with a multimeter, you can really only test the primary coil and still have a problem in the secondary coil.

You can test secondaries. Just need a good meter Either way though some coils fail and your meter can still say it's good. You can have burn-in issues that are only see with operating voltages. Happens often out here. If it's acting up, replace it. No need to meter it since you're multimeter puts out very very few mV when on Ωs and may not catch burn-in or breakover issues.

[Age23]

hey again yesterday i was looking at my engine bay n i saw that my ignitor pack was unbolted so i bolted it up on the coil pack cover then i went for a driver n my fuel cut at 3,000 rpm just stops the cars runs good now its soo wired, i just wanna know if anyone else has had this same problem before. thanks Adrian

[NismoS-tune]

I had that problem once. Loose 'ground' on the ignitor. Nice find.

[Age23]

yea eh thanks man