If I remove the boost restrictor off the solenoid, is there any negative impacts to my 92' GT-R. It is mostly OEM except for 3" exaust and cold air intake, and I think the intercooler is also aftermarket, although I am not sure of the brand or size.
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Wouldn't it be better to put it back in when it's cold? I thought that with cold air, it is more dense, efectively putting more air through your turbo's. Or am I wrong?Originally posted by natetheguy View PostI did it and I love it. I usually put it back on when it's hot out just to be nice to my turbo's.1992 Skyline GTR - Garage Queen
2009 Dodge Caravan - Woopee
1989 240sx - Rusty Beater
1979 Nomad Skyline - 23' Camper Trailer
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If you blow the turbos, buy bigger and better. You didn't buy a GTR to drive a stock 276hp lag machine I'm sure.Black 1991 GTR. Serious garage stand mantle/parts car.
Black 1990 Pulsar GTiR. Sold
Silver 1989 GTR. Sold
Black 2010 Subaru WRX. Weekend warrior. Sold.
Black 2013 F-150 FX4 ecoboost. Daily driver.
White 2012 Ford Explorer Limited. Family wagon.
Sorry for my offensive comments, I r socially retard.
lolstart by having A ROLLING GTR then we talk u ******* mofo funzy little *****
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If you remove that restrictor, how much would you be pushing in term of PSI?
Also, I THINK I know where it is but do someone has a picture or a diagram just to be sure I don't f*ck something up.
Thanks,
AlexNeed detailing done to your car? I'm open to travel to detail your car :
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Search the forum but it's better to drill the boost restrictor to 3mm rather then remove it. I can guarantee most people run without the restrictor (or a drilled one) on this forum. It might be good to get it tuned too (you're in Quebec, so go to Almasi, its $420 for chipping the ECU and a dyno tune), you can probably do 320-350whp on a stock gtr easily. Also don't worry about your turbos you can run them at 14.7psi for a while(which is what the pressure will be if you remove or drill the restrictor). The turbos are at least 15 years old so they may only last a few thousand km at 14.7psi (if you hit full boost alot). Theres a guy in Montreal who just runs his stock turbo on his GTS at 19psi all the time, he blows the turbos all the time but the exhaust wheel just ends up in the exhaust, he then goes and buy another used turbo for 100$-200$. Its what I would call a budget setup but why not, its cheap and it works (if they blow I got an extra set for you, chances are you'll only blow the rear turbo not both).
Also drilling to 3mm will help the stock solenoid keep the 1bar of boost, if you remove the restrictor it'll peak, but its no big deal. Best thing though is get it tunned, its cheap insurance.
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I pulled the reducer from the GTRs I've had, and they ran fine, no different for AFRs, just got 1 bar and a few hp more. 1 wasn't tuned after coming from japan. My silver car made 1bar at 3800rpm all the way to redline. My black car made at most .6 bar since the day I got it till I found 2 bad boost leaks. Get it tuned or alteast checked out just in case I guess.Black 1991 GTR. Serious garage stand mantle/parts car.
Black 1990 Pulsar GTiR. Sold
Silver 1989 GTR. Sold
Black 2010 Subaru WRX. Weekend warrior. Sold.
Black 2013 F-150 FX4 ecoboost. Daily driver.
White 2012 Ford Explorer Limited. Family wagon.
Sorry for my offensive comments, I r socially retard.
lolstart by having A ROLLING GTR then we talk u ******* mofo funzy little *****
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Hey, great idea!Originally posted by mitch32 View PostSearch the forum but it's better to drill the boost restrictor to 3mm rather then remove it. I can guarantee most people run without the restrictor (or a drilled one) on this forum. It might be good to get it tuned too (you're in Quebec, so go to Almasi, its $420 for chipping the ECU and a dyno tune), you can probably do 320-350whp on a stock gtr easily. Also don't worry about your turbos you can run them at 14.7psi for a while(which is what the pressure will be if you remove or drill the restrictor). The turbos are at least 15 years old so they may only last a few thousand km at 14.7psi (if you hit full boost alot). Theres a guy in Montreal who just runs his stock turbo on his GTS at 19psi all the time, he blows the turbos all the time but the exhaust wheel just ends up in the exhaust, he then goes and buy another used turbo for 100$-200$. Its what I would call a budget setup but why not, its cheap and it works (if they blow I got an extra set for you, chances are you'll only blow the rear turbo not both).
Also drilling to 3mm will help the stock solenoid keep the 1bar of boost, if you remove the restrictor it'll peak, but its no big deal. Best thing though is get it tunned, its cheap insurance.
See, I searched this forum for like 1 hours, half of the people had good result while the other haft had blown turbos, this is why I asked.
Also, to my defence, in a 1 hour search, I didn't find any post saying to drill the restrictor!
Lastly, I met Robin Almasi friday to pick my freslhy tuned ECU ( no 100% fine-tuning because my car didn't get on the dyno but still
I also ask him for a rev limiter at 7.3k to keep my GTR safe.
Need detailing done to your car? I'm open to travel to detail your car :
http://forums.gtrcanada.com/group-buys/54899-ontario-cobraa-detailing-group-buy.html
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If you're tune isn't right, you can still damage things. AFRs are very important, more so that a GTR going over 7300rpm since most of us hit over 8000 no problem on good tunes. Anyways, with your ECU tuned without your car (lol?) who knows how good that's set (probably really rich for knock protection until dyno tune). Anyways I cut the hose at the restrictor rather than messing around trying to get it out. Ran fine for 5 years now while driving it like it's meant to be driven. Pull it, have fun! If you break something, fix it. You didn't buy a skyline as a daily driver for the look of it (old and dated) I'm sure.Originally posted by cobrAA View PostHey, great idea!
See, I searched this forum for like 1 hours, half of the people had good result while the other haft had blown turbos, this is why I asked.
Also, to my defence, in a 1 hour search, I didn't find any post saying to drill the restrictor!
Lastly, I met Robin Almasi friday to pick my freslhy tuned ECU ( no 100% fine-tuning because my car didn't get on the dyno but still
I also ask him for a rev limiter at 7.3k to keep my GTR safe.Black 1991 GTR. Serious garage stand mantle/parts car.
Black 1990 Pulsar GTiR. Sold
Silver 1989 GTR. Sold
Black 2010 Subaru WRX. Weekend warrior. Sold.
Black 2013 F-150 FX4 ecoboost. Daily driver.
White 2012 Ford Explorer Limited. Family wagon.
Sorry for my offensive comments, I r socially retard.
lolstart by having A ROLLING GTR then we talk u ******* mofo funzy little *****
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Seriously, I'm sure Almasi did a great job tuning my ECU. I told him the mods I had and I told me I don't plan going on the dyno till next winter. So, He didn't do anything agressive.
Anyways getting off-topic!Need detailing done to your car? I'm open to travel to detail your car :
http://forums.gtrcanada.com/group-buys/54899-ontario-cobraa-detailing-group-buy.html
Please follow my works and latest news/promotion at : https://www.facebook.com/Waxxonspa || Waxxon.com ||
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I may have just had bad luck, but I went through two sets of oem turbos with the boost restrictors out. Took about 3000km, but natetheguy^^^ has had great luck, he's had I puffs for like..5000? More I think, and his still pulls hard. But I wasn't exactly nice to mine, I had the mentality that they were goin to low, I was prepared when they dis. R33 n1s
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