More help needed

[nbskyline]

Hey Guys,

I have high idle, 1100 and the AACV is adjusted all the way. 2nd I have milky oil. New headgasket installed, is it a crack in the block or is there anything else that could cause this??

Appreiciate any help or suggestions.

Thanks

[hks_gtr]

your water cooler could be leaking, block cracked? wont tell till its torn apart

[nbskyline]

Where is the water cooler?? Weird thing is, I am not overheating

[DarkCaporaL]

Arent the signs of a cracked blocked generally oil in the coolant but no coolant in the oil?

Check your coolant.

And did you change the oil after you changed the headgasket? (stupid question I know, just making sure lol)

[nbskyline]

Yeah I did an oil change ( actually 2 ) but within 2 minutes the oil was milky agian. Could I have a line hooked up wrong?? I doubt it, but it is a thought. The coolant, which is mainly water looks ok??

[DarkCaporaL]

Water in oil right after a headgasket change can be due to a couple reasons. It could be left over water from when the head was apart that hasn't drained completely and mixed with the oil. But since you said you changed it twice and you get the same thing it's probably not your case.

I think it sometimes can take a couple heating cycles for the headgasket to set itself properly. I'm not an expert on headgaskets though, I only changed one once, and I didnt get any issues after.

Did you drive the car and let the engine run for a while between your changes?

[Skym]

Was head skimmed before new headgasket was installed???

Did you torque down in sequence, slacken in sequence, then torque down in sequence again (headstuds can stretch).

If it's oil to coolant, you should notice the light green coolant going brown and oil going milky. Also coolant level drops.

To eliminate coolant leakage you pressure test cooling system via radiator cap -

http://www.amazon.com/KD-3700-Cooling-Radiator-Adapters/dp/B0002WSBTS

Make sure engine is cool when you remove radiator cap, as coolant can splash in your face, etc when removing radiator cap when engine is hot (coolant expands when hot).

Low oilpressure should be noticeable by stock oil pressure gauge, if oil pressure gauge sender (sensor) is in good condition.

The coolant might be at a higher pressure than the oil, and if it's a small leak, it could be why coolant hasn't gone brown.

[Modfreak]

This is along shot but I have seen it happen, go through all your vaccum and coolent lines going to your intake mani and tb if you have coolent lines going to vac lines you will be filling your intake with coolent and be making milky oil, if its not that do a compression and leak down test.

[nbskyline]

Was head skimmed before new headgasket was installed???

Did you torque down in sequence, slacken in sequence, then torque down in sequence again (headstuds can stretch).

If it's oil to coolant, you should notice the light green coolant going brown and oil going milky. Also coolant level drops.

To eliminate coolant leakage you pressure test cooling system via radiator cap -

http://www.amazon.com/KD-3700-Cooling-Radiator-Adapters/dp/B0002WSBTS

Make sure engine is cool when you remove radiator cap, as coolant can splash in your face, etc when removing radiator cap when engine is hot (coolant expands when hot).

Low oilpressure should be noticeable by stock oil pressure gauge, if oil pressure gauge sender (sensor) is in good condition.

The coolant might be at a higher pressure than the oil, and if it's a small leak, it could be why coolant hasn't gone brown.

Thanks for the replies

Head was skimmed and torqued as per the manual. It should't need to be retourqued??

Oil pressure is perfect and engine runs fine. If it is moisture in the oil, an oil change should get rid of this?? Or 2 in my case.

On a side note, once engine is cool the oil on the dipstick looks perfect. Once the car is started it goes creamy. Coolant sitting ontop of the oil??

[Marke]

The stock oil cooler uses engine coolant and is all hooked up where the oil filter is. You could check all the lines and make sure that all the bolts are tight. I think this might have been what hks-gtr was referring to.

[Skym]

Head bolts can stretch the first time you torque head down in sequence, so needs to be slackened off in sequence and retorqued down in sequence.

Did you use ARP (torque settings on packet) or stock headstuds (torque settings in engine manual)???

Hot oil change should get rid of moisture, etc.

I gather it foams, because water is lighter than oil.

[91blackgtr]

it was settling and not mixing with the oil at all. if you let the car sit then checked the oil it looked 100% fine and on the mark. after running for 5 seconds it became like a milk shake, found that when we sprayed rust check in the cyls when the head was off it must of leaked down a bit, NBskyline says after about 6 hot oil changes shes perfect again, now just to bring the idle down a couple hundred and advance the timing a bit

[Skym]

Rust check???

I gather it's some form of fogging oil??? -

http://www.amsoil.com/StoreFront/fog.aspx

But it's good to hear that the problem was fixed.

[91blackgtr]

yea it wasn't normal rust check lol and i cant remmeber exactly what kind but it was a form of fogging oil

[DarkCaporaL]

NBskyline says after about 6 hot oil changes shes perfect again, now just to bring the idle down a couple hundred and advance the timing a bit

Glad to hear it. If one thing sucks it's trying to fix something and end up having to redo it.